MDK's S650

Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Did my one year Maintance today. Cleaned all four rear pumps, main and a general cleaning. My only complain with this tank is the top overflow grate. That should be removable to allow scrubbing.

It appears that my chiller temperature control is reading 3 degrees higher than my digital thermometer. I could not understand why after switching to the LEDs my chiller still ran once in a while. I also added a fan to the cabinet to circulate some air in there.
 
Choff

Choff

Well-Known Member
Nice Matt, impressive your pumps made it a year without needing service. Mine have started to bind more frequently now.
 
Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Wanted to run this past you:

I'm still running the stock skimmer which I think has finally broken in after a year. I have it plumbed from the main return the way RSM intends. I'm also running a mag 9.5 that feeds the chiller which does not run anymore since the LEDs mod. I'm thinking of feeding the skimmer from the mag pump after it exits the chiller and then the main pump would act as a return only.

I don't like having the skimmer and return on the same pump as it seems to effect the water level at times resulting in noise.

Anyone see an issue with this?
 
Choff

Choff

Well-Known Member
Nope and I highly suggest it. When I was stock I did it with my mag 18. Had the skimmer, chiller, bio pellet reactor and carbon reactor all plumbed into it. I would then have the skimmer dump into the return chamber.
 
Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Choff said:
Going on 4 months without a pict doc. Just sayin...
Click to expand...

Very true. I can post some pics later. The tank looks essentially the same. I lost some corals over the last few months so it looks kinda bare. Waiting for things to grow a bit now. I have everything dialed in now.

I just bought a new brs 5 stage ro unit that I should have Wednesday. I plan on running the line through the attic and down to the back reservoir of the tank. I will use a float valve and a shut off valve and only keep the valve open while I'm making water once a week. I've heard of to many disaster with float valve failures. I'm still using the tunze ato in the reservoir to fill the sump. I'm trying to eliminate my weekly task of lifting 5 gallon water jugs and pouring them into the tank reservoir.
 
Choff

Choff

Well-Known Member
Check out AUtotopoff.com I bought a (normally closed) solenoid switch that I plan on controlling with my apex along with a dual float sensor (high and low) and I added a mechanical float valve for redundancy. Then I will run my rodi straight to the tank and get rid of the tunze.

Btw, I bought a genesis auto water changer. It's awesome. I didn't get the storm ATO part. I am timing my ATO around the genesis schedule. Currently set for 1 gal every 4 hours so I turn my tunze on twice a day for 30 min. around those times.

At this point once a week I'm mixing salt and draining my skimmer collection jug. Then monthly I clean the skimmer. For the most part I'm on auto pilot now. Now just focusing on my water chem. my coloration is great, but my growth sucks.
 
Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Thanks for the link. Never knew about them.

The main difference between my scenario and yours is if mine fails, my wood floors are ruined. If yours fails your fish room floor gets a cleaning.

I like the idea of having a constant supply of ro to the tank but I'm not convinced in my case the risk is worth the reward. I get 4-5 days out of the rear 10 gallon reservoir. I figure if I make water a few hours a week I can fill up the back every 5 days or so and shut off the unit with a valve until I need more water.

Is there a way to use the tunze directly to the ro unit? I like the alarm and redundancy of the tunze and it's small enough to fit in the tanks reservoir. Just thinking out loud.

The genesis is awesome. Shoot some picks once you install the ato. Why did you opt out of the genesis ato?
 
Choff

Choff

Well-Known Member
I don't see how you use the tunze directly with the rsm that would be safe.

My homemade ATO is much safer than the tunze. I have more redundancy in that I have a 2 high sensors and 1 low in addition to a float valve. The difference is my sensors activate the solenoid which releases the water, the tunze activates a small pump. For water to pass it has to clear both an electronic gate and a physical gate.

Didn't get the storm because I think I can time it easily with my current set up. I just couldn't rationalize the cost.
 
Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Ok, you almost need to be a mechanical engineer to figure this out.

I'm kicking around two options:

1. Installing a normally closed solenoid valve before and after the RO unit. Both switches will be on seperate timers (long enough to make 1 days worth of evaporation) the1/4' hose will be routed through the attic and drop into the RSM reservoir. Inside the reservior will be a single switch at the 5 gallon mark so even if the timers are on for longer than needed, the switch controller will cut off the water supply. Inside the reservior I will continue to run the tunze as an ATO to the sump. Doing it that way, I have addition room in both the sump and reservior to avoid a flood.

2. Same as above but eliminate the reservoir and the tunze and feed the sump directly.

Thoughts? Modifications?
 
Choff

Choff

Well-Known Member
My degree is manufacturing engineering, but I'll give it a go anyway...

If you go option 1 I would still run it through the mechanical float valve for dual high level redundancy.

Option 2 I would want a low sump switch to either alert you or cut off the main pump to prevent damage. If either one of your solenoid fail in the off position you will not be feeding your sump and you risk running dry and killing your return pump (not to mention raise your salinity). Again, I would run this through the mechanical float valve. Not sure if you can figure out how to do this without a controller.
 
Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Ok. I ordered the switches.

I'm going to run the ro tube up from the laundry room through the attic to behind the tank. Around 70 ft. I will have two solenoid switches on the end of the line which will be controlled by a dual float switch (High and low) in the RSM rear reservoir. The solenoids will also each be on separate timers to produce water for around two hours a day or 2-3 gallons. The float switch will sit at around the 5 gallon mark in the reservoir to build in 1-2 days of room in the event of a quadruple failure. I will continue to use the tunze to feed the sump from the reservoir.

With this system, an apex is looking more attractive.

I will have to monitor for a few days to determine how long the timers should run. I'm excited about the thought of not having to fill the reservoir manually. There's only so many times I can carry a 5 gallon jug up a step ladder without hurting myself.
 
Choff

Choff

Well-Known Member
Do you have a feed pump on your rodi line or enough pressure to handle what you are proposing? They also generally recommend 3/8 line for long runs. I used 1/4 for my 25 floor run and didn't have any issues, but I have no head room either.
 
Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Was not planning on a feed pump. I believe I have plenty of pressure but tbd. Thanks for the advice on 3/8. I bought quarter but I can replace.

I have a water line right behind the tank in the wall that feeds the fridge ice maker. The only problem is there is no drain. Is it feasible to run the drain line up and over instead of the feed line? I don't know if there would be enough pressure on the drain line. If I could run it like that I would split it off to feed the fridge too.

Received the ro unit today. Waiting on the switches.
 
Choff

Choff

Well-Known Member
Not following you about the drain line.

Do you drink the water from the fridge or just ice? You don't want to drink rodi water, but if it's just ice I don't that small amount would matter.

...stupid auto correct
 
Mdk16

Mdk16

Member
Why not drink RODI? It would be both ice and water.

What I was saying was rather than running 70 feet of RODI water from the laundry room to the tank, I have a water line directly behind the wall of the tank but do not have a drain near by to carry the waste. So, is it feasible to run a drain line 70 feet to the nearest sink? Due to the 15' ceiling I'm sure I would need a pump. I was asking if the drain line has enough pressure to go up and over that distance without a pump?
 
Mark9

Mark9

Has been struck by the ban stick
Mdk16 said:
Was not planning on a feed pump. I believe I have plenty of pressure but tbd. Thanks for the advice on 3/8. I bought quarter but I can replace.

I have a water line right behind the tank in the wall that feeds the fridge ice maker. The only problem is there is no drain. Is it feasible to run the drain line up and over instead of the feed line? I don't know if there would be enough pressure on the drain line. If I could run it like that I would split it off to feed the fridge too.

Received the ro unit today. Waiting on the switches.
Click to expand...

I was going to run a RO line to my fridge, but the manual specifically said to NOT use an RO line for its water, something about water pressure, and the usual "not responsible for damages" disclaimer.
Once the wife read this, it wasn't happening.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top