Dave's RSM 500 Adventure

Heli Dave

Member
8050e853.jpg

All internal panels in place ready for sump and doors.
 

David Shaw

Well-Known Member
Thanks Dave, your well on your way now. Soon be completely full and you can get everything switched on!

If you don't have a chiller, make sure the feed pipe switch is set to block the water coming down the pipe, i didn't and had water shoot out the end :)
 

Heli Dave

Member
Looking good. thanks! are there lights inside the stand as well?
No lights inside the sump or chiller compartments, there are spare outlets on the power centre, have been looking at an option to fit alight in the sump area with a micro switch activated when the sump door is opened. Will post details when sorted.
 

Heli Dave

Member
Thanks Dave, your well on your way now. Soon be completely full and you can get everything switched on!

If you don't have a chiller, make sure the feed pipe switch is set to block the water coming down the pipe, i didn't and had water shoot out the end :)
Latest fill level, now have 420 ltrs in the system which is just below the circulation pump outlet nozzles. All pumps now run except skimmer.
 

David Shaw

Well-Known Member
Excellent, nearly there now!

Let us know the noise level once you have the skimmer sorted, it took me a week or so to get the settings tweaked and to get everything running really quietly. I found that a greater flow from the down pipe into the skimmer equals less vibration noise due to the weight of the water in the skimmer. It was a tweaking process to get the right amount of water flowing into the skimmer without it making to much trickling noise from the outflow nozzle. I have it set perfectly now and you can hardly hear it, and it is skimming perfectly.
 

Heli Dave

Member
Well gents once the fill is completed and water warmed up I can get the salt added. Quick question regarding the refractometer I have bought. It says to calibrate with distilled water before use, I am assuming that RO water could be used instead as this will be the reference water plus the salt to give the ppt readings?
 

Heli Dave

Member
Excellent, nearly there now!

Let us know the noise level once you have the skimmer sorted, it took me a week or so to get the settings tweaked and to get everything running really quietly. I found that a greater flow from the down pipe into the skimmer equals less vibration noise due to the weight of the water in the skimmer. It was a tweaking process to get the right amount of water flowing into the skimmer without it making to much trickling noise from the outflow nozzle. I have it set perfectly now and you can hardly hear it, and it is skimming perfectly.
Interesting about your comment regarding the skimmer, red sea Kev said it is better to have a high water flow rate through the C-Skim, increases weight of water and less vibration between the skimmer and the support plate.
 
Well gents once the fill is completed and water warmed up I can get the salt added. Quick question regarding the refractometer I have bought. It says to calibrate with distilled water before use, I am assuming that RO water could be used instead as this will be the reference water plus the salt to give the ppt readings?

Yeah, you can calibrate with RO.
 

David Shaw

Well-Known Member
i found too high a flow into the skimmer = louder sound of water coming out of the exit nozzle which i could hear when the cabinet doors were closed.

Mine is set to approx 45% open. This for me works perfectly, no sound when doors are closed and great skimming with a lot of foam production.

I also don't have the skimmer on the shelf, i sit the skimmer on the on the floor of the sump on the shelving panel, neoprene side down. This for some reason made it quieter for me. I copied this setup from Oasis display tank, as i initially put it on the shelf. For me this was the quietest setup.
 
Hey, I'm wondering from you 2 official owners if it looks like it would be hard later down the road to change the lighting to LED if Red Sea made that an option?
 

Heli Dave

Member
Hey, I'm wondering from you 2 official owners if it looks like it would be hard later down the road to change the lighting to LED if Red Sea made that an option?
Looking at the light unit designs my opinion is that there may well be an option later for replace units with LED, i suspect this will not happen until everything has been fully tested. There is a serious amount of light from the T5 but less heat that MH units.
 
Looking at the light unit designs my opinion is that there may well be an option later for replace units with LED, i suspect this will not happen until everything has been fully tested. There is a serious amount of light from the T5 but less heat that MH units.

My impressions from what I've read is that there is a lot of public interest in LED as an option, but it was going to increase the cost of the system quite a bit for Red Sea to do it. That being said, LED should become more and more affordable as an option.
 

David Shaw

Well-Known Member
Red Sea do state that the lighting is future proofed to potentially upgrade lighting further down the line. Dave, have you noticed how bright the lights are! a couple of my corals have doubled in size since i have owned it.

I have found using the centre lighting panel alone is perfect for the evening at home time. I go from a setting of "sunrise" with the centre panel only, then into all 3 panels of light, then down to centre panel only for "sunset" evening, then to moonlights from 10pm.
 
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