Need help with water chemistry

nc0gnet0

New Member
Recently I purchased an RO/DI system capable of 100 gallons a day. Eventually I will be doing a 200 gallon SW tank, but for now my goal is to set up a 90 gallon discus tank. For those of you unfamiluar with Discus, they prefer a Ph near neutral with TDS readings very low. (picky fish)

Why do I need to use RO/DI water for this application? Well, my water out of the tap is liquid rock. Parameters are as follows:

Kh 220
GH 400 +
PH 8.2-8.4
TDS 420 PPM

As you can see trying to alter the PH with anything but an RO unit would be fruitless.


Now, out of the RO/DI my water tests as follows:

KH 0
GH 0
ph 6.0-6.2
TDS 0

What I would like to achieve (there is a little bit of flexability here)

KH ?
GH <50
Ph 6.8-7.4
TDS <60

I would like to stay away from phosphate buffers.

I was thinking I could get away with mixing a small amount of tap water with the RO/DI water (or I could just take water out after the membrame but before the DI). Would I be better off doing this or using a buffer? What KH should I shoot for, I anticipate 25% water changes daily.

Now, what I find intersting is that I have/had the 90 gallon tank full of tap water, with a few small koi (3-4") in the tank to get the cycle kick started.
I began to slowly replace some of the tank/tap water with RO/DI water in an attempt to slowly bring the water down in ph and TDS. I was doing this 5 gallons at a time as to not stress the fish too much (even though they are culls). I was actually shocked to see that initially, the PH shot up, not down. Is this unusual? Eventually the Ph does come down and I have dropped the TDS from 480 to 312 (this is over the course of two days with approximately 15 gallons swapped per day)

Am i going about this the wrong way or am I on the right track? if I am better off just using a buffer and replaceing all the water I would like to know. I ask this question on a reef forum as there seems to be alot more RODI knowledge here than on a freshwater forum.
 

chipmunkofdoom2

Well-Known Member
You could mix tap water with the RO/DI to get some minerals in there, but I would recommend a buffer of some sort. Adding tap water is unpredictable and a supplement of some sort would be better for stability.

You would want something like this: Discus Buffer
 

nc0gnet0

New Member
yes, I am aware of the discus buffer, but it is a phosphate based product, it will work, but not the best for a planted tank.....
 

chipmunkofdoom2

Well-Known Member
From the Seachem site:

Q: Should Discus Buffer not be used at all in planted aquariums? I was told it would be ok.

A: Discus Buffer (phosphate based) is OK to use in a planted aquarium but bicarbonate based buffering systems are generally more accepted in planted aquariums as to not introduce any excess phosphate. You can achieve a bicarbonate based buffering system with our Alkaline Buffer and Acid Buffer.

Acid and Alkaline Buffers
 
Cichlid salts are pretty good for sorting out your pH. You can also add Bicarbonate of Soda to raise it which is really cheap and effective!

Crushed coral substrate, Limestone rockwork or crushed coral in your filter will all also up your pH

xxx
 
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