Fan Controller

[sandman3467]

Ok.....since i've had some free time i've been trying to work on a power supply for the fan controler used in computers with out having to use a computer power supply to run it.My electronics background isn't what it used to be so if anyone with experiance could tell me if I did this correctly please do.

 

[Witfull]

english plz,,,,LOL

 

[sandman3467]

Ok...just for you Witfull.

jhnrb wanted to know of a cheap way to run fans in the canopy by using automation in fan speed depending on the temperature.As I have modded a computer for a friend which included one of these fan controllers.I'm trying to come up with a simple solution to apply the same fan controller in aquarium use.Now the only problem I see is using a power supply from a computer....it's bulky and produces alot of heat too.The electrical schematic above will provide the +5 and +12 volts needed for the operation of the fan controller unit only using a 12 volt DC in wall power supply.

My question was if I got it right or not.

 

[jhnrb]

well i wish i could tell ya that it was ok but i havent worked with electronics since 1972 so maybe someone out there will verify the design. anyway must be in english for me too these days. :columbo:

 

[DaveK]

Ok.....since i've had some free time i've been trying to work on a power supply for the fan controler used in computers with out having to use a computer power supply to run it.My electronics background isn't what it used to be so if anyone with experiance could tell me if I did this correctly please do.

It looks generally ok, but I think you have the +5 and the +12 outputs reversed.

Also, it's asking a lot of 7805 and 7812 regulators to directly power fans and the like. As I recall, without looking it up, they are limited to about 1 amp of current each. In any case, they should be mounted on heatsinks.

 

[DaveK]

My whole thought on this thread is why do you need to regulate fans used for lighting?

Turn them on when the lights go on and off when the lights go off. If you want to be safe, put the fans on a different timer and run them about 15 to 30 min longer than the lights are on.

I've got an Aqucontroler and it's real nice, but I don't use it for lighting control, since a few simple cheep timers work just as well, and cost a lot less.

Controlling fans by using temp sensors and/or a computer or controller in one form or another is an expensive, and error prone way of doing things. You just have so many more places where stuff can go wrong and fail. Unlass you have some very unusual requirements, this seems to be a clasic case of simple is better.

BTW, Raido Shack sells a couple of fans that run off normal 110V AC, so they are very easy to wire into the same power cord you use to supple power to your ballasts. While they do cost more that computer fans, you don't need a 12V power supply to run them.

 

[sandman3467]

True.....but the only draw back on having the fans run continuously is the noise level.These controlers used in the computers vary the speed of the fans depending on how hot it is in the case.....or in this case the canopy.This would limit the noise output produced by the fans.But I think your right about one thing though...it is overkill since Icecap makes fans that adjust the speed automatically too......I just wanted to kill time and offer another DIY project for those that wanted it.......

 

[corvettephreek]

i use a 12VDC fan to cool off my ballasts, which inturn cools of the bulbs, since my tank temp isnt out of control, but I only have the fan wired into a 12VDC wall adapter, and no regulators or anything. variable controlled fans are a must for precise temp. control, but for me, generic can work. right? a degree off wont hurt. not me, at least.... and I prefer DC fans since I work in 12V all day, I am a 12V freak.

 

[DaveK]

True.....but the only draw back on having the fans run continuously is the noise level.These controlers used in the computers vary the speed of the fans depending on how hot it is in the case.....or in this case the canopy.This would limit the noise output produced by the fans.But I think your right about one thing though...it is overkill since Icecap makes fans that adjust the speed automatically too......I just wanted to kill time and offer another DIY project for those that wanted it.......

The fan noise is kind of a non-issue. Fans are available in a wide range of sizes, speeds, and air volume they can move. It's almost always possible to find a fan that solves the problem. Generally the more air moved the more noise it makes.

In computers, some fans are speed controlled by the computer or by a fan controller. However, if you take the systems apart, you usually find only a few fans are actually speed controlled. All the others just come on when the system is on. Even here, some people go "fan crazy" and add a whole bunch of them, thinking that "more is better" and they don't take into account the limits of air cooling or the airflow thru the case.

 

[jhnrb]

Well DaveK, your point is well taken so without getting into the same old opiniated middle of the road approach let me simply state here that for those that just add a bunch of fans i totally agree it is a mis conception, however, for a system that is heat sensitive with approx. 20 items that generate heat, and 1400 watts of light in a light hood (enclosed), controlled circulation and controled exhaust are of the most important issue as is noise level. who wants fans timmed to come on if not needed? timmers do not take into account the systems need for cooling but, just to run at certain times. So although i do agree with you in concept as you stated it, this thread was originally started based on a not so middle of the road system design, in a location where noise is of the utmost importance, and in a location that may from time to time require extrodinary air movement but not all the time or at set times, so, a method for fan control and light control for the purpose of controlling temp is needed. now once the basic need is identified and the environment is analysed, then the equipment is located that will do the job with the least mantinence hence the aquacontroller jr. does just that. as you know lights can be set timmed on/off and can be programed to turn off if canopy overheats, a protection that some consider very important. some have thousands of dollars invested into their systems and so extrodinary measures are sometimes taken to protect the investment. well anyway just my two cents worth and just another opinion. thanks DaveK for the feed back on the posted design and thanks for your posted thoughts on this thread they are all appreciated and respected by this hobbist even though I may not totally agree with you. good fishing to all and please post your thoughts. ALL COMMENTS ARE WELCOMED.

 

[ldrhawke]

I've been using this unit for over two years turning off and on a couple of fans to cool the tank. It does a great job of eliminating the needing for a refrigerant cooler and maintaining the temperature just at 80 F. Even with 650 watts of lighting on a 45 g tank.

Single Stage Controller: 1/5-1/2 Hp (115V) Units
Manufacturer: Aqua Logic

Price: $120.00

Description: Single-stage temperature controller used to control a 1/5 - 1/2 Hp (115V operation) chiller. Can also be used to control a heater. Unit features a digital display, NEMA Type 4X Outdoor plastic housing and watertight temperature probe with 8-foot cable. Temperature Differential Range: 1° F to 30° F (1° C to 17° C).



http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/controllers_and_monitors/103688.html

 

[jhnrb]

well some feed back. aquacontroller works marvelously well. top of hood with all on runs at 92 degrees. my system is designed to work with a max. hood temp. of apprx. 110 degrees so it appears initially im in the window of acceptability. cutting off one fan developed a temp increase twards 100 degrees. this was all with doors closed. in the event of a fan failure the doors can be opened to assit cooling in an emergency. anyway my feed back on the aqua controller JR is very positive even though the price is higher than alternatives. max. amount of equipment is connected to the controller. 12 items. will run another test when the water is in. ( heat transfered to the water will be handled with a chiller.