Expert needed for stand.

[Brandon78]

Hello everyone. I am building a stand for a 93 cube. Here's what I have and need some advice. So it's a rough picture but what do you all think of this.

The tank is 30x30. The sump is 30 long. I could make the stand 31x31 but then the tank wouldn't be 100% over the 2x4 frame. Which may or may not be ok, that's why I'm asking you all haha. Or, I could do the second picture and use the same layout but make it a true 30x30 and then tack on a 2x4 on each side of each corner vertical, then wrap it in plywood. Would that mess up the weight distribution since there would be a hollow gap (the sections with the line slashes through them) even though it's still sitting on the main frame. There would be a gap all around the top piece of plywood where the tank will actually sit as well. I hope that makes sense. don't pay attention to the 34" in the second pic, it would be a tad smaller after 2x4 and plywood.

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[DaveK]

Offhand I believe a 30 long is 36 inches long. This is quite a bit larger than your cube.

Assuming this is the tank your going to use for a sump, it's going to extend a few inches beyond your cube. You can deal with this in several ways.

You can build the stand 36x31 or 36x36 so both tanks can be accommodated. Yes you will have a small shelf around the cube.

If your building an open frame stand, you can cut a piece of 1 inch or thicker plywood to go under all of the 30 long and just let it hang out 3 inches on each side. You could also create a frame for the 30 that would do the same thing, and otherwise build a stand for a 31x31 cube.

Another option would be to set up the sump on the floor behind the stand. This can be a little hard to work on because it's low. On the other hand you can easily get to all the usual equipment that goes in the sump.

Yet another choice would be to use a smaller tank for the sump. A 20 long is only 30 inches long. This isn't as bad as it sounds, because sumps are usually run about half full. You'd have about 10 gal of water in a 20 long sump verses about 15 gal of water in a 30 long sump. It's not that much of a difference.

If money is no object, you could have a custom sump built to fit under your stand. You'd get even more water in it, and could include a lot of special features.

 

[Squatch XXL]

I just built a 36"x24" stand from 2x6 lumber, and it is rock solid. I am no engineer, but if for the best support, keep the tank right over your beams. I am sure there is a calculator for load, but even a 20 gallon can warp an incorrect stand slightly over a decade of being full.

My situation with my odd sized footprint is that IF I want a sump larger than a 29g, my options are less than 36" long and no wider than 13". I have a 38 gallon to use for this, and so I pulled the DT 10" off the wall, and will be able to get good access to the sump. Lines can go directly up from the pump, and straight down for the drains. I am constructing an "L" shaped frame/skinning in the coming weeks/months.

The sump is mostly under the tank, and will hang out the back of the bottom shelf of the frame....I haven't gotten it in place yet, but here is a photo of my stand that I built. hope that helps make sense.

 

[Brandon78]

Thanks for the replies. I am sorry, I meant 20 long. The easiest way for me to go is make the stand 31x31 and that would give me barely any clearance for the sump, but it would fit. Downfall is the DT would not be sitting 100% above the full 2x4. Would that be ok and would I need center supports running underneath the plywood

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[StevesLEDs]

Pretty much anything built out of 2X4's and has support on the bottom perimeter of the aquarium will work.

My 210 gallon aquarium ( over 2,000lbs + live rock), with a store bought stand uses thin 3" x 0.6" soft pine vertical supports around the perimeter. Those are rabbited in (notched) to support the top perimeter beam (1X2") and stapled in place. So it is offset substantially (greater than 2/3 of the top cross beam with no support) At first glance it would appear flimsy, but seems to do the job quite well.

You'll see that the center of the aquarium (bottom glass) is higher than the perimeter on most aquariums, and requires no support whatsoever, it is designed to be floating. Most bottoms are usually tempered, making them very strong.

It is definitely nice to have the stand slightly bigger than what you need, giving you a little wiggle room and perhaps a bit of shelf space as well.

Despite what you think, so long as it is square/true/level, it's hard to under-build a stand.

Hope that helps?
Jeff

 

[Brandon78]

Thanks Jeff! So basically I can build it a couple ounces wider and longer and the plywood underneath should transfer the weight to the 2x4s even though its not sitting directly above them?

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[Brandon78]

Inches. Not ounces lol

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[StevesLEDs]

100% correct! I'm not sure of the modulus of elasticity of the exact plywood you are using (more layers = stronger it is) but you should be good for <3" inches of overhang with 23/32" (3/4") plywood.

Jeff

 

[stravo71]

Build your stand to accommodate your sump. And have the ledge. I had the same issue with my first tank witch was a cube. I loved having the little shelf there to set things on. But I mad my shelf to be 4 inches and put nice trim around it. Just make sure your support beams are under your display edges.

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