12v DC.
Thanks to steve for getting the schematics for me. Over the weekend I took apart my 130D cover. I switched out the leads to the moonlights with a 12V DC power supply ran the cable out the back through a small hole and now have the moonlights on a separate circuit that turns on and off the the Moon rise and Moon set. Actually was easier then I thought it would be.
Harro & Shazza- if you are both in the UK and have moonlight failures then send me an email to: steveh@redseafish.com. I need date of purchase, shop where bought, hood serial number and your address. I will happily send replacement led's for you to fit. They are pretty easy to install and it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes of your time.
Step one on in my post.
"1) Take the cover off the tank. Turn it over and lay it down on something that will not scratch the top. Remove the 8 plastic screws that keep the bulb cover attached to the top and remove the cover and the 2 bulbs."
OK, so that seems to be different then mine. I have a 130D I wonder if they made a change.
You might want to check the voltage when the moon lights are on it might be lower with the load on. I doubt it but it's worth a shot.
The video is impressive. To me that's a lot of light for the simulation of the moon, but that's just me. Let me know how you make out, OK
Hi Steve, the idea behind the extra moonlights is to provide a "staged" start up and end to the photo period the same way people use their Atinics prior to the main lights coming on:
Lights off, 1 hour of new moonlights only, main light+ moonlights, 1 hour of moonlights only, lights off.
The tank will be in complete darkness after the evening moonlight phase or with just the original LED's.
They are in!!!!
Some of the corals looks bloody fantastic under the Blue's............
Dont say it..SHOW it!!!