Tim's (lakelivin) RSM 500 build

ziggy

Active Member
I was just looking at the those on Amazon that are sold by emergency essentials. I want to mount a float valve on the barrel that will be connected directly to the RO/DI and was wondering how hard it will be with only having access to the inside of the barrel through the hole/cap in the top. Might have to cut a larger hole and cover it after the float valve is installed. I will probably order two 30 gallon ones. With a small hand truck and by only filling them with about 20 gallons at the most the 30 gallon one should not be too hard to move around.

BRS has the DIY video on their web site for the BRS 5 RODI Greg recommended earlier, showing the clean water going into 2 brute containers and each one has a float valve wired to the BRS 5.
You can cut a notch in the top for the wire so the lid closes tight and just seal the notch/wire with SW safe sealant
 

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Hi Greg, I change about 75-100 litres a week, is that too much?

10-15% is the normal but there are many factors that can change that number. If you have a high bioload you should go higher, how aggressively you skim, how much you feed all contribute to how much water you should change weekly. I just looked at your tank thread and everything is doing great so I would be hesitant to change anything!!

If you were looking to reduce the amount you can lower it to 50 liters a week for a while and see how the tank inhabitants react to it, if you start noticing bad changes (algae, cyano, etc.) then go back to the 75-100 liters.
 

ziggy

Active Member
10-15% is the normal but there are many factors that can change that number. If you have a high bioload you should go higher, how aggressively you skim, how much you feed all contribute to how much water you should change weekly. I just looked at your tank thread and everything is doing great so I would be hesitant to change anything!!

If you were looking to reduce the amount you can lower it to 50 liters a week for a while and see how the tank inhabitants react to it, if you start noticing bad changes (algae, cyano, etc.) then go back to the 75-100 liters.

sound advise!
 

Wolffman64

Active Member
Honey. We need to put AC in the garage. :)

Bottom line, you are changing 10 pct of the water. 15 gallons of 90 degree water is not going move your water temp much. Routinely add 65 degree water to my 79 degree tank and at most it drops half a degree

...stupid auto correct
Hahaha, I'd love to hear that discussion!!!
 

Wolffman64

Active Member
10-15% is the normal but there are many factors that can change that number. If you have a high bioload you should go higher, how aggressively you skim, how much you feed all contribute to how much water you should change weekly. I just looked at your tank thread and everything is doing great so I would be hesitant to change anything!!

If you were looking to reduce the amount you can lower it to 50 liters a week for a while and see how the tank inhabitants react to it, if you start noticing bad changes (algae, cyano, etc.) then go back to the 75-100 liters.

Thanks mate, I'll stick to the 75 litres then
 

LakeLivin

Active Member
For those who have them where are you mounting all your MP40 and APEX controller pieces in your cabinet? I need to decide on best location for my tank. Seeing that the APEX basically replaces the RSM power center has anyone removed the drawer or modified it to use APEX? Pictures would be great if you have them… Thanks!
 

billefrafra

New Member
For those who have them where are you mounting all your MP40 and APEX controller pieces in your cabinet? I need to decide on best location for my tank. Seeing that the APEX basically replaces the RSM power center has anyone removed the drawer or modified it to use APEX? Pictures would be great if you have them… Thanks!

I'd appreciate the same information. As LakeLivin pointed out earlier, our setup plans are similar.
 

Choff

Well-Known Member
Yes, you can easily modify the stock drawer to house the apex. The 3 stock power bars are each held in by 4 screws. Simply remove those and they slide right out. Now I only have 1 eb8 in my drawer right now because the bulk of my apex components are in the basement, but this should give you the idea.

Everything is velcro'd down , but you could also screw them in.

1117132042a_zpsacfcd5b2.jpg


I took 2 regular power bars and plugged my 4 led lights into 1 and the 4 power heads into the other. I then plugged each power bar into the eb8 using only 1 outlet. I simply didn't need each led to have its own eb8 outlet to turn it off and on. Same with the power heads. The only other thing I have plugged into this eb8 are my apex moonlights and my mp40.

...stupid auto correct
 

LakeLivin

Active Member
Hey Mike, nice to see there a couple of us nightowls on here. I was just posting to Bills thread while you were over here. That's what I thought about the EB8's. Just need to figure out the best place for the other components. Really don't want them inside the sump where they could accidentally get dropped in the water or just get saltwater corroded over time siting over it. I was thinking about a separate board that I could mount them to and leave the board between the back of the tank and the wall. You could slide the board out if the cables are run cleanly so you can make changes or check equipment, But once you are setup on the network you should be able to see what's working and what's not by looking at you computer screen.

Edit: By the way Mike it looks like your knee injury appears to have gotten you a little behind on your maintenance. That's a fair amount of dust in that drawer. :) Are you able to get off the couch much yet? Knees and ankles are serious so take it easy and do what the doc/therapist says. I did a lot of damage to my ankles and knees while is was jumping from perfectly good aircraft mostly at night and I aways seem to spot a hole or a big rock just before I hit the ground with no chance to avoid it. Never rehabed any of the injuries correctly and kept moving. Now I suffer for it… Long story short take your time and do the physical therapy or whatever they tell you. Good luck!
 

LakeLivin

Active Member
Anyobdy have a recommendation on a pump for use in my 30 gallon storage barrels to stir water for mixing salt as well as pumping the water out of the barrels during wc's? I assume most any pump that will fit inside the hole in the top of the barrel will do, but figured it was worth asking if there are any particular brands I may want to avoid. Thanks!
 

LakeLivin

Active Member
One step closer... Received my 5 stage RO/DI from BRS and my 30 gallon barrels yesterday so next step is to decide where to set them up. Most recent thought is to tap into my water softener lines that are located in my main garage. That will be the easiest/cleanest setup due to the water feed line as well as a waste water line already being there. It's also the closest garage to where the tank will be so I can pump the water from the storage barrel into the tank without having to move the barrels. Should make water changes very simple and fast.

I'm going to install a float valve in one barrel with a permanent connection to the RO/DI so I will always have at least 30 gallons of water on hand. When it's time to make saltwater I'll just pump the fresh water from the main barrel into the mixing barrel.

The barrels are very heavy duty and should last a life time. I like that they marked the fill level in 5 gallon increments on the outside of the barrels. The only issue is that I will need to get out my jig saw and make the holes in the top a little larger in order to get a decent sized pump down inside the barrels. I figured that was going to be the case when I ordered them, but should not be a big deal to workaround.

The tank is going to be delivered and setup Monday so let the fun begin!

[URL=http://s422.photobucket.com/user/armyranger10/media/water.jpg.html] [/URL]
 

Choff

Well-Known Member
Nice. I took a router to my barrels and removed the tops. If you cut them off in the right spot they will still seat pretty well.

Big fan of Eheim pumps. Built to last. I also like mag pumps. I have a mag12 and mag18.

...stupid auto correct
 

Choff

Well-Known Member
I'll take some picts later to show you how mine seat to see if that will work for you.

...stupid auto correct
 

LakeLivin

Active Member
Thanks! Anything and everything will help. Right now I'm working on getting a CATV cable ready so I can plug the APEX into a switch that is in my A/V cabinet next to the area where the tank is going.
 

LakeLivin

Active Member
I'm sure the LFS techs are going to have an opinion, but was wondering what others think I should run or not run immediately after the rock, sand and water are aded to the tank. I expect that things will take a good 24 hours to "settle" so I was wondering about running pumps(MP40's), skimmer, lights etc the first day or so.

The live rock is seasoned and the sand is live as well and the LFS is going to add some live bacteria tank starter (forgot brand name) so the tank will be off and running pretty quickly. I'm told the tank will be ready for livestock in about a week. However, I don't plan to add anything that soon. What are the best livestock to start out with while I'm fine tuning everything to keep the tank going? I was think some cleanup crew members...
 

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
I'd run the MP40's at least on low to circulate the water through the rock & benefit the live bacteria.
I don't think I could stand the lights being off as I like to see what's happening & watching the tank. ;)
The potential problem I see using live bacteria additive to SPEED things up is if it fails to work as well as intended, You won't know it right away. Then you add your CUC and they have to suffer ammonia & nitrites and that's not a nice thing to do to them. I hope you wait & do your own testing...it's worth the patience it takes IMO.
 

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
You don't need to run the skimmer or the lights during the cycle. Although since this is a new setup, you can turn the skimmer on for a few hours a day to help it break it.
 

LakeLivin

Active Member
I definitely will not be in a rush and will ensure appropriate levels are maintained and stable before I add anything. No doubt there will be some surprises that will appear from the rock to keep me entertained while I'm tweaking everything. I'm sure I will not be satisfied with my first attempt at rockscaping once I've had a chance to stand back and observe for a bit so I will spend the time before adding livestock just getting everything arranged to my satisfaction. I know how much fiddling around inside a tank that has fish in it can stress them and make them more susceptible to disease so I plan not to mess around anymore than necessary inside the tank once I have added fish.

The tank is supposed to arrive tomorrow around noon. The stand has already been assembled for me at the LFS and the APEX was preliminary programmed yesterday so with the help of a couple experienced guys from the LFS store I should have things up and running fairly quickly barring any leaks or unsuspected problems.
 
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