sump baffle design

[mt79]

I'm going to use a 20 gal high ( 24" l x 16"h x 12w) as the sump. How does this baffle design sound- Overflow coming into the sump then over-under and one more over to create the "return chamber" for the pump on the opposite side. Will this be enough to prevent micro-bubbles from getting back to the main? I'm sooo tired of micro-bubbles argh...
I should add I plan on using a CPR CS90 over flow(600 GPH).

 

[Frankie]

Sounds good. It should help a lot with the bubbles specially if you use the baffles for chemical filtration. (*bags of carbon, phos remover ect..)
Do you have a drawing of your plan? I'd like to see it.

 

[mt79]

Sorry no pics or final plans yet. I decided to add an extra "over". So now my plan is overflow-over/under/over-Refugium-over-return chamber. Sound good?? This is a heck of a project for a DIY "rookie" :columbo: .
Edit- "columbo" is the name of that icon lol... that's too funny.

 

[Witfull]

we all were rookie DIYers at some point,,and each time we try a new DIY project,,,we rookie up all over again...good luck and take pics as you build it,,,it may just help another newbie or even teach an OFR a new trick.

 

[XBwlr]

How big should the first chamber be? The one that the water flows into the sump.
Would 6" be large enough?
How far of spacing on the baffles? 1 1/2"?
With 600gph, what size pump?


I plan on building one using the same tank as mt79.

 

[mt79]

"Would 6" be large enough?"
Good question... W/ only a 20 gal to work w/ space is limited. FWIW I'm planning on about 4" but as I said I've never done this before.

"How far of spacing on the baffles? 1 1/2"?"
1" seems to be the most popular/effective spacing according to what I've read.

"With 600gph, what size pump?"
I'm going w/ a Mag 9.5 to account for head height and the added back pressure of a SCWD(wave maker). If you add a ball valve to the return line you can throttle back the pump if needed. Here is a great site for info. on DIY sumps- www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

 

[XBwlr]

I've read on several forums NOT to throttle back a pump. It's not good for it.
Instead, put a T in the return line and have that flow directed back to the sump. Put your ball valve there instead.

 

[mt79]

I've read mixed opinions. Some people say the damage is negligible, others say it will limit the life span of the pump. I not too concerned w/ it right now, I'm not sure whether I'll even have to throttle it back much if at all. For what it's worth if you get a pressure rated pump I don't think it would matter. Thanks for the info.

 

[Frankie]

Good link mt79. Yes that over under sounds good to me. Theres a question as to the refugium/over to return idea though. With an over/return you still risk micro bubbles to the return from the "waterfall" effect, (splashing ect..) You want the return chamber to be as calm as posible. Also, you dont want to much flow passing through a refugium. Go lite on the pump so theres more contact time in there. Refugium = calm.
Is this going to be a mud system?
If you can't get any pic's (i seem to have that trouble also some times) could you do a quick drawing of it?
Here's a picture of the first refugium I built. It was a 30 gal. tank. Hope it helps you some. It's not your normal fuge, i elevated the mud and had the water passing up through the mud. never had any trouble with micro bubbles. i used a mag 5 for that return to a 90 gal. reef.

 

[Craig Manoukian]

Just some thoughts,

29 gallon tall tanks are not as good as long tanks because of the limited footprint. I recommend a 20 or 29 gallon long, bigger if you want a larger skimmer. Food grade plastic tubs are an economical alternative for sumps/refugiums and you can get more foot print/water volume inexpensively.

 

[Woodstock]

FYI... I found a place that will custom make sumps... check it out..

http://www.spaquatics.com/

 

[Craig Manoukian]

Nice link, a little pricey though IMHO.

 

[Woodstock]

I have a sheet of acrylic in the garage....hummm....

I've put a lot of thought into a sump and what the 'perfect' sump would be for my set up but I can never decide which would be the best layout...

 

[Cougra]

I've used a 20 Gal tank for my sump and hate it. I find that the foot print is too small to do much with. First off, make sure you have enough clearance in under the tank so that you can easily reach into the sump just in case you need to fetch something out of it such as a fish that accedentally took a ride through the overflow and also keep in mind that 1" to 1.5" spacing between baffles doesn't allow for easy access to catch said fish (Yes it's happened to me!) Also, make sure there is enough room in the top of the tank to be able to withhold any backflow of water from the display tank should there be a power failure, even if you have check valves cause they can fail as well!

If I could change my sump in any way, I would try to find something wider, a little longer and shallower for a sump then the 20 Gal tank (24x12x18)

 

[mt79]

W/ a 55gal room under the tank is very limited. I only have 12.75" of width to work with. I have a 30gal long sitting in my basement that I would love to be able to use. I wish I'd have gone w/ a 75gal but oh well. This is basically exactly what I'm planning/described above(the actual pic, not the drawings)- http://www.spaquatics.com/model_x1.php The return chamber looks calm (in the pic atleast). One thing I don't want is micro bubbles.That is the main reason I'm adding the sump so the skimmer/filter are out of the tank.
Thanks for the link Woodstock.

 

[mt79]

Here is a drawing of my plan. Now, Which design would be better at stopping micro-bubbles from entering the display tank- The set of over-under-over baffles: A)after the drain and before the fuge OR B)before the return, after the fuge?

 

[Melev]

It really depends on your goals. Is a skimmer going in this sump? If not, then the layout you have now is a good one.

I like to incorporate a bubble tower in the corner of the intake section to break up the bubbles in the first place. I saw you've been to my site, so perhaps you've noticed the bubble tower in the corner of some of the sumps such as "G" and "M".

The drawback to your design above is only that you can't control the flow (gph) going through the refugium, but if you don't care then it doesn't matter.

 

[Yarr]

Going back to the first page. i wouldnt throttle back the pump when it is very easy just to drain any excess back to the tank. a Tee and a Valve.. Bob's your uncle..Fanny's your Aunt.. its all done.. that way aswell you can control the flow

 

[Safedad]

MT79 Make your overall box. then try different spacing for your baffles by just clamping the acrylic in place. run water through the system and see how it works. It will leak around them some but it should give you an idea of flow. Most designers don't get it right the first time (nor do DIY).
Good luck,
Bob

 

[mt79]

I got the sump up and running yesterday. Everything looks good except I'm having some micro-bubble issues. I'm going to add an "under" right before my return pump. Water splashing into the return chamber is causing the bubbles. If that doesn't work then I may have to throttle the pump down some. I added a "Tee" to the return in my final plan but I have the Mag 9.5 running wide open right now. I will post pics when everything is complete and I have some more time. Happy reefing

Thanks for the tips and encouragement everyone.