Steve's LEDs

hensleyac

Member
Apparently, I did not order the Typhoon cable. So I ordered yesterday for $30 plus $22 two day shipping - ouch! I'm including a photo of an extra part I have. I have a hunch it is included for me to make my own Typhoon cable? I also included a photo of what the wiring board looks like on the lights I received. I believe Steve's may have changed it since the photos provided in this thread (page 20 or so) look different than mine.

BigJim70 - Thanks, lights just went on and fan is not turning. Does it have to reach a certain temp to kick on or do you think I have a bad fan/power supply?



 

BigJim70

Member
Apparently, I did not order the Typhoon cable. So I ordered yesterday for $30 plus $22 two day shipping - ouch! I'm including a photo of an extra part I have. I have a hunch it is included for me to make my own Typhoon cable? I also included a photo of what the wiring board looks like on the lights I received. I believe Steve's may have changed it since the photos provided in this thread (page 20 or so) look different than mine.

BigJim70 - Thanks, lights just went on and fan is not turning. Does it have to reach a certain temp to kick on or do you think I have a bad fan/power supply?




I have never checked to see if my power supply fan turns on with the lights. If it heats up and the fan is not turning, I would shoot an email to Steve's LEDs to be sure. It will probably fail pretty quickly if the fan isn't working.
 

hensleyac

Member
The fan in the power box only comes on when the box gets hot enough.

I must have a defective power supply. I tried taking the extra fans that came out of my hood and connecting and they don't kick on either. The metal of the box is very hot to the point I have to pull my hand off of it when I touch it.

I have an email into Steves. Maybe due to the holiday but notice they are really slow to reply. Seems foreign to me to purchase such and expensive item (Over $650) and not have phone support for customers.
 

Jeff Lazo

New Member
Just installed my Led retrofit las night, everything went well! I removed one stock fan and rotated the other. I have a quick question regarding this, has anyone removed the stock fan and just used the fan mounted on the heatsink to lower the noise level? House stays at a nice 68-74 throughout the year.

I have a 130.
 

hensleyac

Member
Just installed my Led retrofit las night, everything went well! I removed one stock fan and rotated the other. I have a quick question regarding this, has anyone removed the stock fan and just used the fan mounted on the heatsink to lower the noise level? House stays at a nice 68-74 throughout the year.

I believe this thread was performed on the original 250. My C250 hood is different than the photos posted throughout this thread. I have two fans on each side of my hood but they were mounted in a bracket that connected them to each other. That means I did not have that curved piece of plastic to cut out as the instructions stated. I did leave one of the original fans in The hood per the instructions. So I now have the two fans on the heat sinks and one of the original fans blowing out. Today is my first full day with the led lights on and my temperature has dropped 3°.
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Hi Jeff

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to ReefSanctuary, a real Sanctuary of reef forums, with lots of very nice members
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Start a tank thread & share your tank with us so we can follow along, we love pics :dance:
 

Lexinverts

Member
Just installed my Led retrofit las night, everything went well! I removed one stock fan and rotated the other. I have a quick question regarding this, has anyone removed the stock fan and just used the fan mounted on the heatsink to lower the noise level? House stays at a nice 68-74 throughout the year.

I have a 130.

Supposedly, leaving one of the stock fans in the hood is necessary to keep the relay cool, since the heat sink fans just blow air through the heat sink and nothing else.
 

Lexinverts

Member
I believe this thread was performed on the original 250. My C250 hood is different than the photos posted throughout this thread. I have two fans on each side of my hood but they were mounted in a bracket that connected them to each other. That means I did not have that curved piece of plastic to cut out as the instructions stated. I did leave one of the original fans in The hood per the instructions. So I now have the two fans on the heat sinks and one of the original fans blowing out. Today is my first full day with the led lights on and my temperature has dropped 3°.

That's good to know. Be careful with the intensity of the lights. I had to turn mine back to 30% on the first day, when my corals started sliming like crazy after I started them at 50%.
 

hensleyac

Member
I must have a defective power supply. I tried taking the extra fans that came out of my hood and connecting and they don't kick on either. The metal of the box is very hot to the point I have to pull my hand off of it when I touch it.

I have an email into Steves. Maybe due to the holiday but notice they are really slow to reply. Seems foreign to me to purchase such and expensive item (Over $650) and not have phone support for customers.

I heard back from Steves. They are sending me another fan to connect to the external power and mount externally over the vent.
 

Jeff Lazo

New Member
Just curious how often the PSU fan goes up to full speed for people? I have the LED's set to about 50% and it seems to ramp up every 15-20 minutes for about 1 minutes. Gets pretty loud!
 

Lexinverts

Member
Just curious how often the PSU fan goes up to full speed for people? I have the LED's set to about 50% and it seems to ramp up every 15-20 minutes for about 1 minutes. Gets pretty loud!

Mine did that too, so I moved it into the ventilated part of my cabinet and set it on top of my chiller. I have a fan blowing air through this side of the cabinet, and this way the fan cools the power box down too. Now the internal fan only comes on once in a while.
 

hensleyac

Member
Posting this for clarity, found this on Steve's LEDs site:

Should You Leave The Dimmer Pots Intact?
We highly recommend that you leave the dimmer pots/knobs plugged in while using an aquarium controller. You can replace the dimmer with a solid jumper wire, however, remember that every time you introduce a new coral to your aquarium, you will need to slowly acclimate it every 3 days over the course of 6 weeks to ensure you don’t bleach it. It is easier to significantly easier to increase the brightness every 3 days using the dimmer pot, than to reprogram your aquarium controller every 3 days. PWM will allow dimming throughout the entire range that you set using the dimmer pots.







Finally received the Typhoon cable that I apparently forgot to order. The Typhoon cable Steves sent me is only 4 wires (Red, Yellow, Green, Black). Should it be 8 wires for my C-250? Also, anyone have a link to exactly where I connect the bare wire ends to? Thanks
 

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
You only need 4 wires so they probably finally got a new cable set in with just the four that you need.

My assumption is that you have the Quad LED driver v7.0 so it should look like this picture:


If that is the case, on terminal 1 on any of the terminals marked "G" connect the negative from the Typhon, most likely the black wire. see below (Also make sure you are using the 5V PWM, make sure the black wire is on the top connected to the negative of the Typhon):


Connect one Red wire to Terminal 1 the pin marked "DIM.


Do the exact same thing on the other driver. Connect the green wire to any of the "G" terminals and connect the Yellow wire to the "DIM terminal.

Also flip the DIP switches as shown in this picture.
 

Hutchy007

Member
Emergency... My lights seem to have packed in. Only one strip of leds work. But they don't dim or anything... Just on that's it. Blues not as bright as the whites?
Any ideas? Don't enter to rip the hood apart if it's a power problem or something like that?

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
 

hensleyac

Member
Best instructions I've seen yet, thanks. You are correct, my boards are both V7.0. I followed these instructions exactly and only my white LED's came on. I have disconnect the 4 wires and now no lights come on??? Very frustrating as you can imagine. any thoughts? Typhoon is programed at 55%. All 4 showed 55% on the screen. My gut tells me I still need an 8 wire (4+ and 4-) as there is a Dim1 and Dim2 on both of the drivers.

Thant doesn't explain why the lights have not gone back on after disconnecting the Typhoon??? Thanks so much!
 

BigJim70

Member
Emergency... My lights seem to have packed in. Only one strip of leds work. But they don't dim or anything... Just on that's it. Blues not as bright as the whites?
Any ideas? Don't enter to rip the hood apart if it's a power problem or something like that?

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

That's not good. I would probably disconnect the controller and switch the DIP switches on to see if all channels work. If all channels work, your controller would be the issue. If that doesn't work, I would probably e-mail Steve's LEDs to get advice. I hope it's something simple.
 
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