Poriferan's New 130d Set up

Poriferan

Member
Had a near disaster today:smack:

After installing the RKE I set the chiller and chiller supply pump to only turn on when the tank gets to 81*. This has not happened. Today I decided to turn it on to make sure snail or things did not grow in the lines and plug them...

The water inside the lines had ROTTED!! It blew out into the tank and smelled the entire house like Rotten Eggs.

The snails started rapidly pulling in and out of their shells and the fish began to swim in circles and upside down. The firefish jumped completely out of the tank.

I caught, by hand, the fish and transferred them to my quarantine tank that is still cycling with a good deal of ammonia.:eek:verhere:

Well, the fish recovered within minutes in quarantine and I did a 50% water change (all the water I had mixed and ready. I also put a LARGE bag of carbon directly in fron of the overflow, where the sponge would go.

I am happy to say all fish have recovered and are back in the main tank. None of the inverts or corals seem to have been adversely affected.

The reason I wanted to post this was in hopes of keeping others from making the same mistake. Water will stagnate when not moving and poison your tank if pumped back in.:hammerhea
 

Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
Charles - good information, and good to hear you didn't lose anything! It sounds like hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell) had built up in the chiller lines - deadly stuff.

Was it the fault of the RKE, or because cool temperatures had not required the chiller to come on for quite a while? It sounds like the chiller pump should be left on at all times to prevent this, and only the chiller itself to be on a controller?
 
Last edited:

Poriferan

Member
Charles - good information, and good to hear you didn't lose anything! It sounds like hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell) had built up in the chiller lines - deadly stuff.

Was it the fault of the RKE, or because cool temperatures had not required the chiller to come on for quite a while? It sounds like the chiller pump should be left on at all times to prevent this, and only the chiller itself to be on a controller?

It has not been needed since the addition of the RKE. It would be essential to keep water flowing through the chiller to avoid this. I was thinking I might plum in a very small circulation pump to run constantly and cut down on electricity bills, but elected to remove the chiller all together. With the fan blowing on the surface of the tank during MH hours and the AC in the house set to come on above 80 I did not need a chiller. I also am setting up the RKE to turn off the MH light if the temp does get above 81. My operating temp has been 78.5- 79.5 consistently.

I will likely use the chiller on the Large tank and just plumb it into the return.
 

Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
Thanks for the information Charles. Good to hear it wasn't the fault of the RKE. That issue with the stagnant water in the chiller will hopefully help some others avoid a disaster if they shut off the chiller pump over the winter, and don't drain the line before restarting it when things warm up. Even turning the pump on once or twice a week would help.
 

Poriferan

Member
One of my new residents:)

IMG_9787.jpg
 

Poriferan

Member
The Blenny is new. The picture was taken after lights had been out a couple hours so the clam is closed and the sun coral is hungry:yummy:
 

clka

Active Member
Cute blenny....we were afraid we'd have to take ours back after he was initially aggressive in QT with our assessor fish, but they worked out their differences and I love watching him bounce around, they have a lot of personality!

Cheryl
 

Poriferan

Member
Cute blenny....we were afraid we'd have to take ours back after he was initially aggressive in QT with our assessor fish, but they worked out their differences and I love watching him bounce around, they have a lot of personality!

Cheryl

Thanks Cheryl,

Mine is only aggressive to me :columbo:

Nips my wrist when I put my hands in the tank.:fishy2:
 
Top