reef torch led lighting

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clowning around

New Member
I just want to tell you about the reef torch lights that I am running on my 75 gal.
i have the dual bulb 100 watt 12k with a 50 watt blue I have 2 fixtures in this tank for about 12 months
before I got these light I was running 2 175 watt hallides 15k's
there is no compairson the coral growth plus with this much light my algee problems have disapered
I have a 10 watt on my fug. and im putting 3 10 watt on my nano and will consist of 1 blue and 2 whites
also I wanted to mention that the Jenks aquarium is running Bill's reef torch lights on their tanks as well
I met Bill about 3 months after I baught my first light and wanted to buy a second and the store I got the first from had closed
I belong to a club in Tulsa call OMAS and barrowed their PAR meter, at 1 inch under the water I got over 500 par and on the sand at 17 inches I have at least 200 par most everywhere on the bottom
There are a lot of there lights running here in the TULSA AND BROKEN ARROW OK. area and I have seen a lot of these tanks and there all awsome
I didn't want to stir up anything but I did want to give you my 2 cents.
 
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reefer gladness

Well-Known Member
FWIW, I think 250 watts of LED and only 200 PAR at the sandbed isn't very efficient in terms of energy consumption. Using a combination of 5-watt whites and 3-watt blues with 80 degree optics I make 350 PAR at the sandbed (24 inches from the lights, 18 inches under water) and consume about 1/2 the wattage/hour. This is with my whites only turned up to 45% max intensity.

Not doubting it works reasonably well but it partially defeats the purpose of converting to LED's. I could light 200 candles and get enough light to read by but that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Hope you continue to have good coral growth but this isn't really the direction I think LED's should be taking.
 

clowning around

New Member
Maybe true but with my metal halide I wasn't getting anywhere near that
Those par's was also with the single light I'm now running the duel light fixtures
If I was guessin I'd say 16 or 17 inches down my par would be closer to 300 now
 

PIMPALA

Well-Known Member
Again, IM NOT BASHING THIS PRODUCT. But I know this is purely in response to my replies on the other thread. And actually, now I'm not sorry for posting my personal experience with these types of lights. In the other thread I was basically called a liar. I stated my personal experience and real world PAR numbers. That is all. I'm glad the mods didn't delete the thread, as reviews are just that. Reviews. There are ALWAYS both good and bad. Even with the best products in the world like the Ecotech Radions. They have plenty of poor reviews. If you can't accept that you aren't able to make everyone happy 100% of the time in business, then best of luck to you because you're going to need it.

For the record, I'm allowed to state my opinion, personal findings, and defend myself if needed. If anyone feels the need to challenge anything I posted in this, or the other thread, I can absolutely prove all of it to be the 100% truth.
 
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Willie McDaries

Well-Known Member
I'm not trying to start an argument or taking sides or whatever,just trying to get a better understanding.....

I am not at all even remotely familiar with LEDs except for what I have read about them,but numerous studies have proven that 1 x 3 watt LEDs produce more PAR than 3 x 1 watt LEDs....now to my understanding,and please correct me if I'm wrong,but the 100w reef torch uses a chip that contains 100 x 1 watt LEDs,1 watt LEDs are proven to grow coral but it takes a lot of them to do the job,where it takes 100 x 1 watt LEDs,you can use 20 X 3 watt LEDs and cut the energy usage almost in half and still have as much or more PAR....again,just judging from what I've read

to me,if you're gonna use LED technology to conserve energy,and you should,why not conserve as much as possible,knowing that much more efficient LEDs are available,why would you replace 175 watts of MH with 150 watts of LED ? from what I gather,the only significant savings would be on bulb replacement and heat,though those is considerable....

you can DIY a fixture using 3 watt LEDs that would only consume 60 watts or less and have the same or greater PAR than the 175 watt MH
 

clowning around

New Member
Well let first answer Jason
I was at your house last January and I asked you why you added the vho's with your led's and you told me it was for added color not because of the leds not being good enough not only that but when I was being bashed by other club members them saying that the only led light that would grow coral was the light that the club store was selling and you was thas only one backing up what I was saying.
you have a right to change lighting and yes you had a form of Bill's light but the ones you had were used a low grade driver, lower millie amps and was not putting out the same power the current lights have

OK now for the other question
have you seen these lights on Marine Depot?
Kessil A150W Special Blend LED Aquarium Light
Kessil Tuna Blue Dimmable Special Blend LED Aquarium Light

these lights use the same led bulb that ReefTorch uses, go check them out and read what they clam

DON'T JUST LESON TO ONE GUYS OPINION call bill and ask for references
 

steved13

Well-Known Member
PREMIUM
FWIW, I think 250 watts of LED and only 200 PAR at the sandbed isn't very efficient in terms of energy consumption. Using a combination of 5-watt whites and 3-watt blues with 80 degree optics I make 350 PAR at the sandbed (24 inches from the lights, 18 inches under water) and consume about 1/2 the wattage/hour. This is with my whites only turned up to 45% max intensity.

Not doubting it works reasonably well but it partially defeats the purpose of converting to LED's. I could light 200 candles and get enough light to read by but that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Hope you continue to have good coral growth but this isn't really the direction I think LED's should be taking.

I think the piece of the puzzle you're missing is that (I think) 100 1w LEDS is less expensive than 20 3w. Again I'm not sure but I believe the cost can be kept lower. The savings on cooling alone might make it worth it.



I just want to tell you about the reef torch lights that I am running on my 75 gal.
i have the dual bulb 100 watt 12k with a 50 watt blue I have 2 fixtures in this tank for about 12 months
before I got these light I was running 2 175 watt hallides 15k's
there is no compairson the coral growth plus with this much light my algee problems have disapered
I have a 10 watt on my fug. and im putting 3 10 watt on my nano and will consist of 1 blue and 2 whites
also I wanted to mention that the Jenks aquarium is running Bill's reef torch lights on their tanks as well
I met Bill about 3 months after I baught my first light and wanted to buy a second and the store I got the first from had closed
I belong to a club in Tulsa call OMAS and barrowed their PAR meter, at 1 inch under the water I got over 500 par and on the sand at 17 inches I have at least 200 par most everywhere on the bottom
There are a lot of there lights running here in the TULSA AND BROKEN ARROW OK. area and I have seen a lot of these tanks and there all awsome
I didn't want to stir up anything but I did want to give you my 2 cents.

Nice to hear they're doing well for you. With the $$$ savings if they can work it might be a good alternative for some folks. Can you post some pics for us? We love pics. Progression shots of the growth are always a hit.
 

clowning around

New Member
I'm not going to argue the point over 1 watt verses 3 watt
It's been shown the industry is moving over to the 1 watt multiple bulb chip verses the single light chip
This is a he said he said thing and until your running LED lights yourself I would say you have no proof of anything you say except for what you have read, this industry is changing so fast that there's no way to keep up unless you're buying the lights yourself and running them
I bought the single light fixtures a year ago from reeftorch and 3 months ago i upgraded to the new 2 bulb fixtures useing the Maxwell drivers.
But have not had a chance to par them yet
 

PIMPALA

Well-Known Member
If I was only adding the VHO for color, I would have used actenics only. So no, that's NOT why I added VHO. In fact, if you look at my build thread, I talked about adding several T5 bulbs first before doing the VHO, because I wanted more par. The VHO was more watts of light for less money and built in reflectors, so it made a lot more sense.

We're you also at my house when we did a comparison of a 60w Cree fixture, and a 100w reef torch? The Cree blew it away in PAR readings.

Also, trying to say that my light was less quality and Mille amps etc is complete BS. Sorry, but you have no idea what you are talking about and it's obvious to everyone that you are simply nothing more than just typing information sent to you in a PM or text message from Bill. So you just lost credibility there bud.


Last, to defend my light being a reef torch light? Here is why, and this is EXACTLY what I told Bill over text message the other day... Bill shows off his personal tanks. They use a 10x48" heat sink with 5 epistar LED chips glued to it. Wires run from the led to an individual driver, which plugs into the wall. THAT'S IT. It's a LED plugged directly to a separate driver, glued to a heat sink. Everyone following me? Ok. So I told him I wanted what he had on his tanks. He built me one exactly like his personal models, and he put a big giant REEF TORCH sticker on the front of it, so when I host OMA'S meetings, everyone would see the name.

My light was every bit a reef torch light as yours, except yours has a little black stamped steel cover over the heat sink. Now he uses a different exterior cover to make it look different, there is a fan built into the heat sink (because without a fan, and driving them at 100w the drivers will pop after extended use) and that's it! Same chip, same type of driver, same light.

If anyone wants to build their own, it's pretty simple to order a heat sink on ebay whatever size you want, order the epistar LED in whatever color you want, a tiny spot of glue and 2 solder joints, and you're done.

If any of this is doubted by anyone, I have pics of my fixture, and all of Bill's fixtures as well. Stating that I only added the VHO for color is a lie. Saying my fixture was not a reef torch brand unit, or saying that it was inferior is a lie. He now uses a little flat glass lens on the new model. It doesn't quadruple the light output.


And he is correct, there is no reason to take ONE MAN's OPINION. If that was the case, nobody would ever buy anything anywhere, because everything eventually has a negative review somewhere. Bill said to me that on a google search for reef torch, the other thread popped up second. Bill's understanding on how google works, is the same as his understanding of how PAR works. Once you visit a page online, it's saved into your Internet history. If you search for something on google, it pulls up THAT page first. If you clear your history and search again, or someone searches for it on a computer that has never clicked on that website, then it's buried within pages of google. If you do it the right way, searching reef torch only pulls up that thread on the second PAGE of results. And less than 1% of people ever make it to the second page when doing research on anything.

So chill out about the google thing, and everyone read up more on PAR and why it's good for corals. Also, there are several people around town who WERE running the reef torch, but now are not. An LFS has one on a shallow frag tank with corals right at the water surface, and nothing deeper than 6" down, and it's also sharing the tank with a T5 fixture. Only ONE OTHER store has them, and he's a brand new store, and the owner just recently opened and the tanks are all still basically brand new.

The other stores mentioned like Shane's shop, he's only put them on a couple of tanks, and they are fish only tanks, same as what I saw at the Oklahoma Aquarium, and there I stated that they were awesome at fish tanks. If they are actually having them successfully grow coral in a reef tank with them, and as you stated, getting 150+ PAR at over five FEET down, and can prove it, then I'll happily apologize.


From now on, I suggest you all do not attempt to agitate me further with any nasty texts, PMs, or any type of communication other than simple and polite banter on this forum, and to stop attempting to discredit me, as I have proof to back everything up. Take it for what it is, and move along and get past it. You won't win a fight with me.
 

steved13

Well-Known Member
PREMIUM
So let me get this straight, you all live near one another, you've been to each other's houses, and decided to bring your drama to Reef Sanctuary?

This is not need, wanted, or going to be tolerated.

The staff kept an open mind and I even tried to contribute to the thread giving you all the benefit of the doubt.

This thread will be closed. Any attempt at this kind of nonsense again will result in a banning. For the matter any perceived attempt...that means if we even think it's happening.
 
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