Kay's RSM 250 White Pearl
- Thread starter RSM250PEARL
- Start date
RSM250PEARL
Member
imaccat said:
Hi Rekkie, I extended the cable on mine so it goes down the power centre and out the side where the main RSM cable comes out. I have it plugged into it's own timer. Hope that helps
Whilst I'm here replying to a post I'd like to also say hello to all my friends here. Life has been hectic recently so I don't get time to visit the club at the moment. I Had a lovely holiday thanks Iain! Unfortunately since then it's been busy busy busy lol
The tank is doing well, no problems whilst I was away thanks to my LFS making a few home visits and checking all was in order.
The tanks 1 year birthday is coming up soon so I'll be back then with a proper update and pictures. Until then, I hope everyone and their tanks are doing great.
Hey Kay good to see you posting again... know how life can get busy sometimes... to catch up we sometime just have to click "mark all forums read" and pick up from there... 
here hoping you get back on top of all soon !
Happy 1 year Tank Day - look forward to a new FTS pic
here hoping you get back on top of all soon !Happy 1 year Tank Day - look forward to a new FTS pic
RSM250
Member
Hey Kay
Really like the way you have set things up on your tank, I've been installing a dosing pump so had to put holes in the back to do so, basically copied from pictures I've seen of how you & others had done it, I've got a couple photo's of how I did it on my Thread but now I'm looking for advise on the Tunze Osmolator, I see in your pictures you have installed the magnetic bit with the sensor on the wall where the power cables run down, do you still have it there, has the cable from the hood ever caused problems with moving the magnetic half in that chamber, others have suggested putting on the wall where the chiller hoses are but seems more room where you have it.
Really like the way you have set things up on your tank, I've been installing a dosing pump so had to put holes in the back to do so, basically copied from pictures I've seen of how you & others had done it, I've got a couple photo's of how I did it on my Thread but now I'm looking for advise on the Tunze Osmolator, I see in your pictures you have installed the magnetic bit with the sensor on the wall where the power cables run down, do you still have it there, has the cable from the hood ever caused problems with moving the magnetic half in that chamber, others have suggested putting on the wall where the chiller hoses are but seems more room where you have it.
RSM250PEARL
Member
RSM250 said:
Hi Terry, thank you. I've checked your thread out and the way you've done your dosing lines looks great. Where do you plan to install the ATO line? I no longer have the magnets on the side, but on the back wall where most people have them. The only reason I moved them back to the back was I regularly siphon out the rear chambers and simply removing the magnet from the back was easier than having to get to the power centre each time I needed to remove the sensors. Otherwise it worked just as well in that location and I don't recall any problems with the cables moving the magnets. Hope that helps
Hey Kay - how's the tank - good to hear from you mate !
RSM250
Member
Hi Terry, thank you. I've checked your thread out and the way you've done your dosing lines looks great. Where do you plan to install the ATO line? I no longer have the magnets on the side, but on the back wall where most people have them. The only reason I moved them back to the back was I regularly siphon out the rear chambers and simply removing the magnet from the back was easier than having to get to the power centre each time I needed to remove the sensors. Otherwise it worked just as well in that location and I don't recall any problems with the cables moving the magnets. Hope that helps
Thanks Kay
I have to put the hose through the chiller accessory kit through the right hole if facing the tank, like most I guess & the cables will have to go through the power centre & out the little slit in the bottom, I tend to run my water at the height of just touching the arm bit for the hood & the skimmer tends to work on around the level indicator being on 5 or 6, not sure if that is how most have their water level or if I'm running it to high.
RSM250PEARL
Member
nanoreefing4fun said:
Hey Glenn, the tank is doing really well thanks mate. I'm working on an update at the moment, documenting mods and changes and growth pics and progressive FTS etc. I will be back posting regularly soon, I miss this place lol. Catching up on everyone's threads is going to take an age so I might just do as you said and mark all as read and pick up from there, hope nobody will mind.
RSM250 said:
You're welcome Terry. That ATO setup sounds good. If the skimmer is working for you then you have it set right. Theres nothing to say all the 250 stock skimmers work best at a certain level because we also have an adjustable collection cup neck to play with. I have my cup neck set high so I keep my water level high at the back. Others keep the neck set low so require the level to be lower in the back otherwise it'll overflow.
As long as your weir gate is set near the top to successfully surface skim you're half way there. The level at the back can then be adjusted to bring the water level in the skimmer body up or down as required to produce the kind of skimmate you want. Hth
sometimes that's the best way to get back - just click "mark all forums read" and then go from there
look forward to your new pics !
sometimes that's the best way to get back - just click "mark all forums read" and then go from there
Yep yep yep ^^^^^
RSM250PEARL
Member
Thanks guys
RSM250
Member
You're welcome Terry. That ATO setup sounds good. If the skimmer is working for you then you have it set right. Theres nothing to say all the 250 stock skimmers work best at a certain level because we also have an adjustable collection cup neck to play with. I have my cup neck set high so I keep my water level high at the back. Others keep the neck set low so require the level to be lower in the back otherwise it'll overflow.
As long as your weir gate is set near the top to successfully surface skim you're half way there. The level at the back can then be adjusted to bring the water level in the skimmer body up or down as required to produce the kind of skimmate you want. Hth
Much appreciated Kay, thanks for the info for the ATO, the dosing pump is all set-up borrowed your system of keeping the hoses together with the cable gathering tube but now I'm not sure about products for dosing, I've got Red Sea Calcium & Magnesium & I know I can dilute 1-3 then add to the dosing container & instead of using the 10ml for weekly maintenance I'd use 30ml but would be costly & I'm only using those because I brought them when I first got my tank, I like the Seachem products & they are easy for me to get, I already have Reef Builder for Alkalinity but not sure how I would mix for the 1500ml dosing container & what other Seachem Calcium or Magnesium products I should get.
Think I will copy this to my Thread also & see what other advise I might get.
RSM250PEARL
Member
lethal said:
Cheers Leigh
RSM250 said:
I used red seas powdered supplements for a while but to be honest if you've got a doser the way forward is the Fauna Marin Balling Light. Very easy to mix, completely balanced with one another and cost effective. I have no experience with those seachem products but I highly recommend the FM BL system. Stability is key for coral growth and long term success and it's easily achieved with this system. I wouldn't recommend using different brand products to make up your own balling system. With the FM BL system it's all balanced out for you, all you do is mix salts in RODI and add trace elements.
Kay is this what you are doing? Instructions for Fauna Marin’s new Light Balling method
RSM250PEARL
Member
nanoreefing4fun said:
Glenn - correct but that site is outdated (2009). The recipe has changed since then. The most recent instructions are in the following link.
http://www.faunamarin.de/content/balling-light-manual/manual_balling-methode_eng.pdf