I don't want to quit!!!

[55GALLONnewb]

I started trying to build my reef about a year ago. I look at the pictures on all these sites and I see these beautiful reef tanks, and at the stores, nice color pop and naturally I want the same in my living room. I've spent lots of money on equipment and corals but can never get the results that I want. Zoas keep fading and loosing there colors and SPS keep browning. I get so fustrated some times I just wanna quit! First my filtration wasn't good enough then my lighting was inadequate next my perameters where off. I finally think I got everything right and stable but still everything is the same no color pop more fading. I do a 10 gallon water change every sunday. I feed a quarter of a cube of formula 1 and 2 once daily. Dose half cup phyto every other day. The only thing that I can think of thats wrong is my halide bulbs cheap Ebays, but could that really be it cheap bulbs. I'm asking for help please!!!
What I got:
55 gallon AGA 10 gallon sump/fuge. Overflow box to Vertex In-80 skimmer to Cheato to Carbon and Phosphate reactor then back to display.
2 Koralia 2's one maxi jet
140 lbs live rock 4 inch sand bed
2-110 48" Superactinic VHO's
2 175w Plusrite 20k bulbs
Calcium 425
Alkalinity 8 dKH
Salinity 1.025
pH 8.4
Magnesium 1300
Phosphate undetectable
Nitrate .25
80-82° F (82° lights on)

 

[DaveK]

It looks like your trying real hard, but not getting results. You seem to have obtained at least OK equipment.

I'm going to stick my neck out a bit here. I suspect that your trying to do the right things, but that your background in reef systems is weak. Therefore, you are doing things because you heard some place that it's a good idea.

Assuming that I'm correct, I suggest you rethink your entire system. Get yourself several books on state of the art reef systems. I usually recommend books for beginners. If you don't have any start there, but if your heart is set on SPS corals, then go further and get more advanced books. Here is one set I highly recommend -
The Reef Aquarium: A Comprehensive Guide to the Identification and Care of Tropical Marine Invertebrates (Volume 1, 2, & 3) by Julian Sprung

Next you want to read and comprehend the book, and rethink your entire reef system.

Some possible problem areas are the 140 lbs of live rock. That's almost 3 lbs per gallon, about three times more than you need. Also, a 4 inch deep sand bed. It's not that I don't like DSBs, but between the LR and sandbed, you must have little water left in the system.

Since it's been about a year, it's time to replace your bulbs, they will need it by now. As usual, I recommend top quality bulbs. My preference would be for bulbs in the 10K to 14K for the MHs and the same type actinic bulbs for the VHO.

Next, rethink your filtration system. It's asking a lot of a 10 gal sump to hold a skimmer, Cheato, and carbon. You'll likely want to redo this in a much larger size. While we are talking about size, you might even want to reconsider the tank. 55 gal tanks are almost impossible to aquascape decently. A 70 or 90 work out lots better.

Lastly, go with easy corals to keep, at least for awhile. Many people have trouble with SPS. Stick to soft corals, LPS and mushrooms for awhle. Once you have those going well, you can consider an SPS frag or two. Don't rush right into SPS corals.

 

[55GALLONnewb]

I appreciate your honesty and for giving it straight. I really dont have the space under my tank for a new sump I had a 20 gallon but it cracked. I was looking to get Iwasaki's 15k or AB 13k I have an M57 ballast. So do you think I should get rid of some of my sand and rock the only reason I have so much is because a friend of mine sold me a hundred lbs for a hundred dollars I already had 40lbs. Would the bulbs cause my zoas to fade and my sps to start to brown. I have four frags of sps pearlbery, purple tabling, acro pink milli and blue stag. The only ones starting to brown are the pearlberry and purple acro. The zoas I have are eagle eyes, nuclear greens, purple death and AOG's, all had great color now look dull. I started the tank last August and your right I still dont know what I'm doing. I will get those books, definetly! Thanks.

 

[seafansar]

I agree with DaveK. You might also want to stop feeding so much phyto so often! A half cup every other day to a 55 gallon seems like way too much to me. I have a 150 heavily stocked (coral wise) reef tank and only feed phyto every 3-5 days and only about a half cup.
14K bulbs will help colors stand out.
Might try stop using GFO, if you don't get a build up of phosphates without it. I found that one of my corals reacts very poorly when I try using a phosphate reactor. So now I just run carbon and don't have any problems with phosphates or that coral melting away.
What fish are in the tank? Can you post pictures of the tank? Maybe a video, so we can see how much flow is in there? I know you posted your powerheads, but sometimes that's hard to judge the actual flow in the tank.

 

[55GALLONnewb]

I might try shutting off the phosphate reactor and see what that does. I'll also stop the phyto so often. Fish: 2 true perculas, Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse, Clown Goby, Yellow Watchmen, Engineer Goby, and Green Mandarin. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow, my lights are off, and my camera is not that good.

 

[sambrinar]

hmm I have a 75 gal with a 10 gal sump holding chaeto, skimmer as well.. it works just fine.. I think it's the phyto.. what are you trying to feed with it?? I do not use anything like that at all!! I used to use marine snow.. caused nothing but algae.. so I does with NOTHING...

I have all kinds of corals that need feed, I just spot feed.

I have duncans, feathers, candy cane, acans, dendros.. I say stop the phyto all together

 

[Frankie]

I agree to dump the phyto. Don't feed the corals please!
1)I would like to know how you are maintaining the Calcium? Just water changes?
2)

Nitrate .25

This will cause the coral to lose it's color. Try to shoot for 0. What test kit are you testing your water parameters with?
3)

2 175w Plusrite 20k bulbs

At 175w this bulb is to deep and blue. Change to 10k or even 14k and you will see some colors. Just use your VHO's for the blue spectrum everyone is wanting.
4)

80-82° F (82° lights on)

Yes, some months on the open reef get pretty warm but I have found best result in the home aquarium to be between 75-78. SPS tend to do better in cooler water.

5) Relax. It took me many years to finally get the results I was looking for. One year does not mean mature. Most tanks are not stable in that amount of time. Just keep reading and enjoy the hobby. If there was no challenge then what fun would it be?

 

[55GALLONnewb]

I maintain calcium with water changes, which keeps it at 420-425, but if it does start to run low I dose BRS two parts. I use Salifert to test calcium and magnesium for the rest I use Red Sea. I was reading Sanjays articles about PAR and saw that the best bulbs where also the most expensive bulbs, does PAR deal with color of corals or just growth? Iwasaki's 15k PPFD=71, AB's 13k PPFD=73, was also looking at Xm 20k's PPFD=51 pretty good PAR. I will also start to lower my temp. I'll stop dosing phyto. I also added a little pinch of golden pearls to the mix should I stop that too? I'll try and be more patient, I just get so fustrated when I buy a new frag and it only looks good for about a week you know.
Thanks for all your help.

 

[SiNiStEr NaTiOn]

i have to agree with dave, Even though my reef is still in it's planning stage since july/aug. Even though I don't have a tank running yet, people here in RS is very helpful.

 

[funkpolice]

a note on phyto. if you use fresh, single species phyto, you can't add too much. live, fresh, healthy phyto is a good thing, especially for a tank housing a mandarin.