DIY Spraybar for RSM130

magnetar68

magnetar68

Member
Since I am converting my RSM130D into a seahorse tank, I was thinking about making a spraybar instead of the standard RSM nozzle.

Here is one idea, what do you think:

Order three (3) 6" 1/2 loc-Line tubes ($3.99 each)
Order one loc-lin ball value as a cap at the end ($9.75)

Then drill holes in each ball socket to create the spraybar.

This gives me an 18" spraybar that can come straight out from the return pump for about $25.00.

I assume the RSM loc-lin is standard 1/2"?
I assume the weight of the bar itself in water is not too heavy so the three loc-lines can stick straight out without dropping?
 
tnwillia

tnwillia

Well-Known Member
Another possibility, you could use the 1/2" Modular Manafold and or the Total flow control Manifold adding the Nozzels of your choice. Have fun with it!
 
Built347

Built347

Has been struck by the ban stick
This costs about 3 dollars..

IMG_20111228_184233.jpg


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magnetar68

magnetar68

Member
My problem is that I am a little too conscience about the looks of the tank. I thought about the loc-line manifold solution and a PVC based solution, but they seem to a little too obtrusive for my tastes. My original vision was just a thin black tube comping straight out from the pump output towards the front of the tank with some holes drilled in it. I also considered 1/2" gray PVC or even 1/2" clear PVC (1/4). I just need some type of adapter to go onto the return output on the RSM pump and a cap.
 
tnwillia

tnwillia

Well-Known Member
You can do the same Devon suggested with the clear PVC & clear45's off your pump output. No matter what you put in there it will be covered with Coralline in a year. Good luck!
 
Built347

Built347

Has been struck by the ban stick
tnwillia said:
You can do the same Devon suggested with the clear PVC & clear45's off your pump output. No matter what you put in there it will be covered with Coralline in a year. Good luck!
Click to expand...

You hit it right on the head...I was just going to say the ugly white PVC will be covered in color in no time. Or clear or black... Ive got 2 inch bulkheads sticking out of the back of my reef tank and 8 months later they are completely coraline camouflage... its hard to spot them..

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dmatt88

dmatt88

Has been struck by the ban stick
+1^ mount em high n 2 months later their purple pink n darn near invisible.

Woohoo Matt has tapatalk back
 
magnetar68

magnetar68

Member
Hmm, I guess the difference is that I clean both the back wall of my tank and the output nozzles on my tank, so the idea of letting the spraybar get encrusted with coralline was not obvious :eek:lsmile:

I think I am going to try the clear stuff and see how it goes. My plan is to clean this monthly with tank maintenance like I usually do, so we shall see.
 
BigAl07

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Raymo I'm liking this idea. I've thought seriously about doing something similar in my 130D. I can't get the 2 existing nozzles in a position that makes me happy.

So are you joining the two pump outputs into one manifold?
 
magnetar68

magnetar68

Member
Since this is a low flow seahorse tank, I was only going to use one pump and one spraybar. Joining the outputs of two seems problematic since you need to rotate both onto the two threaded pump outputs? One idea, however, would be to make one a straight piece of pipe, but then use a speed fittings to go from the other output to the pipe. Hard to describe, but imagine a threaded speed fitting adapter on the second pump. A piece to tubing on the mur-lok that goes into speed fitting attached to a T on the straight spraybar. Anyway, something like that.
 
magnetar68

magnetar68

Member
I have not been able to find a pipe adapter that will fit the output FPT from the pump. I am thinking this is metric. It's close to 3/8" so I am thinking 10mm. I sent a note to Red Sea, maybe they will provide some guidance.
 
tnwillia

tnwillia

Well-Known Member
A possibility, The pictures are from my first plumbing attempt with my chiller. I think you can do something like this here.... Use the Loc-line female 1/2" MPT at the in-tank wall, use a 1/2" Male MPT to go thru the wall from the chamber.... a 90 degree PVC in the chamber to a barb then connect your exist hose/pump to the barb. Doing this you can also use longer hose and get it setting lower in the chamber if you want. Maybe something in this direction will get you where you want to go. Have fun!


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magnetar68

magnetar68

Member
That could work. I have another idea too, but not sure if it will work. It looks like the diameter of the hole in the stock pump is a little over 0.5". It's possible that 1/4" PVC with an outer diameter of 0.54" would be a snug fit or could be sanded to fit. If so, then this could be simple: I just stick a piece of 1/4" PVC with a cap on it and a bunch of drilled holes. I don't think I can get 1/4" easily, but I will call the plumbing supply tomorrow; I can get it online if I need to.
 
BigAl07

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Keep us posted Raymo. It seems like it wouldn't take much "work" to get it to fit snug but would be better if we could adapt something "Threaded" so it can't blow off.
 
magnetar68

magnetar68

Member
To be clear, the current stock pumps are not threaded inside the pump. There is a small slip fitting that goes into the sump. This has a thread on it that the nozzel attaches to but if you pull hard enough the slip-threaded fitting will come out of the pump. Given that these are only 145gph pumps, I guess that works. Also, the hole in the pump is a small square and the slip tubing is not directly in front of the hole so there is no pressure pushing the slip fitting out.

What I have proposed is that instead of this 1" slip-threaded fitting, I use a 18" pipe with holes drilled and a cap. I think as long as the total surface area of the diameter of all of the holes in the spraybar is great enough to not put a lot of pressure on this pipe it should stay firmly in place, but I will let you know when I find out.
 
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