I hate to be the bearer of bad news but an anemone isn't considered a "Softie". Unfortunately they are some of the of the HIGHEST light requiring of animals we keep in our tanks.
2 feet is indeed a fairly deep tank for it's proportions but that just means you'll need to be precise when you mount your coral in the future. Higher light demanding will go closer to the top. I wouldn't say you need to buy another light fixture unless you are heart set on higher light demanding coral. If that's the case then later on down the road we can investigate that.
WPG rule is very antiquated with today's technology. It was "Ok" back in the VHO day when that was the only real choice. Now we have many light choices and they are not created equal. If you go by WATTS the only thing you know for sure is how much electricity they will consume in a given time. Here is how "lighting" plays out in a very generic terms:
PC - least intense but good for softies, LPS and some have gotten away with SPS but it's not readily suggested. Not efficient and not intense. Not good for medium to deep tanks. A Tried and proven true method to light medium light needing tanks. Bulb selection is alright and need to be replaced yearly.
MH - VERY intense but also fairly inefficient and produces a lot of heat "into the tank". Tank temps need to be considered. Great for getting high intense light into the bottom of deeper tanks. A tried a proven method for lighting tanks with good selection of bulbs to chose from. Bulbs can be a bit expensive and need replaced yearly.
T5 - Very efficient and fairly intense in shallow to medium tanks. If designed and built correctly with correct components can grow just about anything in the tank from low light to high light needing coral. Bulbs relatively inexpensive and a HUGE selection of bulb choices. This makes it easy to create a very unique and eye pleasing "light scape" in your tank.
LED - Latest and greatest of the batch. Can be VERY intense but the components need to be evaluated carefully because you can end up with a very expensive moonlight if you're not careful. VERY efficient in fact the most efficient of the group. Heat is a factor but it's not directed into the tank. HEATSINK required in assembly. Bulb last years and years and if "controlled" by a Dimmer or Tank Controller your color combinations are mind blowing for that WOW factor.
Let's do some examples:
- 70w Metal Halide over a 34g tank (RSM 130D) approx 2.06 WPG and a CRAP LOAD of high intensity lighting.
- 130w PC bulbs over 10g frag tank . That tank had over 13 WPG and even with that I could not keep a Seabae anemone alive or any SPS coral. I had a lot of WPG but it was all PC.
It's like this.. if you was landing a jet on a runway at night ... would you rather have a few extremely bright lights shining on the runway or 1000 birthday candles? LOL! I'm being overly sarcastic but at the same time it puts things into a more realistic perspective for us.
On my 12g NanoCube I'm only running 36W total but they are 3w LED and pushing a TON of light energy into the tank.
Andyl I wasn't picking on you by any stretch of the imagination I just don't want you getting bit by the WPG bug like some of the rest of us have.