I love the blasto and the baby hammer. I just had to give up my frogspawn because the darn thing was growing out of control. I traded him for a Crocea.
From what I've heard, T5's aren't terribly reliable. They burn out all the time. VHO's beat PC's for results. They are a time tested and proven platform. They also need frequent replacement. A 70 Watt MH would do just fine over a 10 gallon, and you will be quite happy with the results...
Well, 1.025-1.026 are the optimum levels for keeping corals, so I wouldn't be in any hurry to change that. Also, what are you using to measure your salinity? If you are using a floating arm tester, they tend to give incorrect readings.
One other thing. Double check your salinity against something else. Those float arms are notoriously inaccurate. Mine read 1.026 when the water was actually 1.029.
A gallon jug is fine. Mix it up, and let it sit overnight, and in the morning, there will be white powder all over the bottom, and the liquid is crystal clear. Use only the clear liquid, never the white residue.
I mix 7 gallons in a rubbermaid tub at a time for my kalk. It keeps for...
Now that's a good bit of information to have. Much better than dipping, IMO.
I once killed a whole tank of fish by dumping live rock in without knowing what the *bleep* I was doing. Cycle it in a tub outside of your tank. Please.
How about going to a hardware store and buying a rubbermaid tub for $5 to cure the rock in? Leave it in there for a few weeks with a powerhead and heater and you will avoid adding all kinds of crud to your tank. IMO, I wouldn't FW dip live rock if it were me. You'll end up killing all sorts...
You can't expect them to get everything right, can you? I doubt that most of the orange you see is caused by bacteria, either. You probably only see it if you put your corals in a blender, or something.
However, it is interesting that there is another symbiosis that provides needed...
The news seems to be just full of coral articles lately. According to this article, in addition to Zoox, corals contain symbiotic Cyanobacteria that provide corals with useable Nitrogen. That would certainly explain why some corals never seem to need direct feeding in captivity. I never quite...
I have stated my opinion before that reefs must be able to adapt to changing climate in order to have survived for millions of years on this planet. Usually people would rather not believe that, but here is an encouraging study...
I run my MH for 8 hours, and have no supplemental lighting. Anything longer than 8 hours and things start closing up.
I have 250W on 10 gallons, though, so my corals are a bit squinty eyed.
I run a 14 K XO bulb, which doesn't really address your colors, but I am pleased with the colors in the tank. It's already been said, but the only reason to put in actinics is if you think they look cool. I have none, and the corals could care less.
I imagine that cruelty to animals might be hard to make stick when you are talking about fish which are suffocated by the millions every day in fishing boats and corals with no central nervous system.
Malicious destruction of property is another matter altogether, though. By the time you add...
Well, if you have a ton of crap in the substrate, it can do that to you. I've had runaway tanks too. I would advise that you check your topoff water for nitrates before you put it in. Impure water is a common sourse of nitrate and phosphate.
When they "drip" that is different than what I was talking about. Normal head splitting is just about skeleton growth. Sometimes they form a bit of loose skeleton inside a head which grows and hangs until it finally breaks free to drop to the rock and start a new colony. That looks...