UV Sterilizer - Suggested Flow Rates
- Thread starter Woodstock
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hma
Well-Known Member
No it isn't bad mkartadi. The efficiency is much higher and in the strength not really necessary, but harm it does in NO CASE. You can optimize the efficiency when you activate the UV-C lamp only at night. :hallo:
Lonestar
Member
I am fairly new to the hobby, and this thread has spiked my interest concerning UV sterlizers. Does this product only neutralize the harmful or unwanted stuff, or does it also irradicate the beneficial algae? With a UV sterilizer in operation, does the hobbyist find the need to add additional nutrients to the system for corals etc, as opposed to not running the UV sterilizer? and what would be a recommended size / wattage for a 37 gal reef tank?
Personally, I nave used UV in the past. I am not a big fan of it, unless you are using it for a very specific problem.
UV is basically going to kill bacteria, algae spores, protozoans, and the like that pass through the UV unit, provided the amount of UV they are exposed to is enough to do the job of killing. If what your trying to kill doesn't pass through the UV unit, it will not kill it.
Generally, it takes more to kill a protozoan compared to algae spores, but there are exceptions.
Unless you use massive amounts of UV it will not kill the most common SW parasite diseases SW ich and SW velvet.
UV can help keep water clear by killing bacteria and algae actually in the water column. It will not kill things like hair algae growing on your live rock. The downside to this is that many corals and other filter feeders consider this bacteria and algae food.
Generally you do not need to add anything extra because you are using UV. While we are on the subject of additives, I recommend that except for the calcium and alkalinity additives you stay away from them. Rely on partial water changes to keep the nutrients and trace elements up.
I recommend that you save your money and don't use UV, unless you have some very specific condition where UV will help.
UV is basically going to kill bacteria, algae spores, protozoans, and the like that pass through the UV unit, provided the amount of UV they are exposed to is enough to do the job of killing. If what your trying to kill doesn't pass through the UV unit, it will not kill it.
Generally, it takes more to kill a protozoan compared to algae spores, but there are exceptions.
Unless you use massive amounts of UV it will not kill the most common SW parasite diseases SW ich and SW velvet.
UV can help keep water clear by killing bacteria and algae actually in the water column. It will not kill things like hair algae growing on your live rock. The downside to this is that many corals and other filter feeders consider this bacteria and algae food.
Generally you do not need to add anything extra because you are using UV. While we are on the subject of additives, I recommend that except for the calcium and alkalinity additives you stay away from them. Rely on partial water changes to keep the nutrients and trace elements up.
I recommend that you save your money and don't use UV, unless you have some very specific condition where UV will help.
jonmiilton
New Member
I have the 25W version, the same thing. Mine leak in the wiper, when I use it a couple minutes after the leak stops. In addition, I have no complaints. I have not found a difference between running it, not run it, but it is there, and open 24/7. I have my in my waffle and use powerhead402 to feed it.
HMA posted this information in a different thread but I felt it best to also give it a sticky thread
Thanks HMA!
I'm new to this forum..... I have a RedSea max 250..... Not sure if your familiar with the system.... Imlooking at getting a UV sterilizer. It's a 66 gal tank and there is not much room for adding.... What sterilizer would you recommend? I am having allege outbreaks as well as my tang has ich. I was looking at a submersible one....is JBJ a good brand?
JBJ makes good products. Just make sure you can easily access the quartz sleeve to clean it regulary.
Also, UV sterilizers should not be relied upon for parasite treatment. Removing all fish to a hospital tank for treatment while leaving the main tank fallow (fish free) for 9-10 weeks is required. Please see this thread for more information on treating ICH: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/52236-curing-fish-marine-ich.html
So here is my dumb question.....
On my 275 Gallon reef tank I wanted to add a UV however could not find one locale that was rated for that size. So what I have done as of this week is buy the one they had which was 9 watt corallife turbo twist 3X. This states it's rated for up to 125 gallons.
I read the suggested flow bought a small pump that was rated at the flow they recomend. That turned out to be a small rio 600. I have hooked this up and I am drawing water from my first chamber in the sump where the incoming water and my skimmer is. I then have the out put of the UV water bypass my middle chamber which is the refugiam and drain into th elast chamber of the sump which is where its returned to the tank.
I am brand new to this whole UV thing i have read on many forums about them. Since its a smaller unit then what the tank calls for I figured one of two things. Run it all the time 24/7 if I do not feel that its doing any good then I would take it home and put it on my 120 Gallon reef tank which it would be rated for.
So I did not figure it was a total waste cause I can move it to the smaller tank.
Am i on track here or have a made a big mistake. Do you think this will do anything running it 24/7 or what?
On my 275 Gallon reef tank I wanted to add a UV however could not find one locale that was rated for that size. So what I have done as of this week is buy the one they had which was 9 watt corallife turbo twist 3X. This states it's rated for up to 125 gallons.
I read the suggested flow bought a small pump that was rated at the flow they recomend. That turned out to be a small rio 600. I have hooked this up and I am drawing water from my first chamber in the sump where the incoming water and my skimmer is. I then have the out put of the UV water bypass my middle chamber which is the refugiam and drain into th elast chamber of the sump which is where its returned to the tank.
I am brand new to this whole UV thing i have read on many forums about them. Since its a smaller unit then what the tank calls for I figured one of two things. Run it all the time 24/7 if I do not feel that its doing any good then I would take it home and put it on my 120 Gallon reef tank which it would be rated for.
So I did not figure it was a total waste cause I can move it to the smaller tank.
Am i on track here or have a made a big mistake. Do you think this will do anything running it 24/7 or what?
I run my UV 24/7, it's never turned off.
IMO using a UV that is too small is a waste. I would recommend this unit for a 275, it's what I use on my 250. I would use it with a flow rate of about 250gph:
50 Watt (330 Gallon) Emperor Aquatics Smart HO UV "High-Output" - Bulk Reef Supply
IMO using a UV that is too small is a waste. I would recommend this unit for a 275, it's what I use on my 250. I would use it with a flow rate of about 250gph:
50 Watt (330 Gallon) Emperor Aquatics Smart HO UV "High-Output" - Bulk Reef Supply
It depends on what you want to kill. I'm pretty confident, that if Ich goes through my UV it's dead at the output. I get a high dosage while still flowing 250 GPH through the UV.
People get confused about this, the title of this thread even adds to it. I've had people say, you have to have a very low flow rate to get a high dosage...this is not true, you can get a very high dosage at 5000gph if you have enough UV output. 1 is a function of the other. It's why sometimes/places you can go outside all day with no sunburn and other times/places you have a burn in an hour...it's output and exposure time.
The box at the store is usually talking about a much lower dosage, and IMO the low dosage is why people stop using UV and say it's a waste of money. Also most manufacturers rate the dosage, with a new bulb and with clear water, so in normal water and a bulb that's a few months old you getting half af what they state if your lucky. So now it's really not doing much.
People get confused about this, the title of this thread even adds to it. I've had people say, you have to have a very low flow rate to get a high dosage...this is not true, you can get a very high dosage at 5000gph if you have enough UV output. 1 is a function of the other. It's why sometimes/places you can go outside all day with no sunburn and other times/places you have a burn in an hour...it's output and exposure time.
The box at the store is usually talking about a much lower dosage, and IMO the low dosage is why people stop using UV and say it's a waste of money. Also most manufacturers rate the dosage, with a new bulb and with clear water, so in normal water and a bulb that's a few months old you getting half af what they state if your lucky. So now it's really not doing much.
I would flow around 250 - 300 GPh, you'd be turning the tank through the UV well over once per hour and have a high kill rate for the tougher organisms. You'll kill the plankton also, but IMO most of that is only what we add anyway.
hma
Well-Known Member
Hi Ed,
thanks for your email and greetings from Durban/South-Afrika where I am currently for business.
First of all, there is the rule "The slower, the better the effect ". In your case, this means 1200 gph are much, much too fast , at such a high flow rate is almost no sterilization instead. In your case reaches a small pump with a maximum of 300 gph, 150 gph or even 200 gph is usually perfect as well. In Germany there is a saying "Viel hilft viel!", in english "more is better ", but that's not true in this case. The slower the flow, the better the effect, "too slow" does not apply here.
Hope I could help
Cheers from Durban
Heinz
thanks for your email and greetings from Durban/South-Afrika where I am currently for business.
First of all, there is the rule "The slower, the better the effect ". In your case, this means 1200 gph are much, much too fast , at such a high flow rate is almost no sterilization instead. In your case reaches a small pump with a maximum of 300 gph, 150 gph or even 200 gph is usually perfect as well. In Germany there is a saying "Viel hilft viel!", in english "more is better ", but that's not true in this case. The slower the flow, the better the effect, "too slow" does not apply here.
Hope I could help
Cheers from Durban
Heinz
Here's an excellent read about using a UV sterilizer: UV Sterilization, Aquarium & Pond; How To use a UVC Sterilizer, Information. I personally liked section 10 Facts/Myths about UV-C Sterilization.
One quick answer: Probably not.
As for the topic, the thought process I've always used is the slower (less) the water going through the UV, the more things will be killed.
As for the topic, the thought process I've always used is the slower (less) the water going through the UV, the more things will be killed.
scastillo813
Member
I have a RSM250 and was looking to get a UV sterilizer to help out in the tank. My allege isn't bad, but I'm told they are a great addition to help keep it clean.
I've been looking at a JBJ SunSun JUP-23 13W UV Sterilizer Submersible Pump.
It has decent reviews on amazon. Has anyone else had any issues with this brand/model? Thanks
I've been looking at a JBJ SunSun JUP-23 13W UV Sterilizer Submersible Pump.
It has decent reviews on amazon. Has anyone else had any issues with this brand/model? Thanks
It will help "keep algae away", but it does this by killing the algae and putting the nutrients back into the water. So, nutrients in the water rise.
So if the goal is to reduce algae, and nutrients, you'll need something besides a UV.
So if the goal is to reduce algae, and nutrients, you'll need something besides a UV.