Mandarin goby and ich

rkum19

New Member
Just wanna start off by saying hello to all.

I know there has been alot of discussions on ich but I still have a few questions.
I broke out with with ich in my main tank which is 44 gallons. I have a small tank (14 gallon nano cube ) , which I also keep fish and coral. In my 44 gallon I have lots of coral, 2 clown, flame angel, psuedochromis ,mandarin goby, and a purple firefish. In my 14 gallon I have coral, mandarin goby and 1 clown goby.

Question#1: My question is, what would be the best way to treat my big tank. Should I put all my coral from the small tank into the big tank and then put all the fish in the 14gallon tank and do hyposalinity treatment. Im thinking this would be to small and lead to stress. I cannot really afford to buy another tank at the moment.

Quesiton #2: Can Mandarin Gobies get ich? If I do decide to put everyone in the 14gallon I can put the mandarin back together and leave them in the main tank. The reason why I ask is that ive seen white spots on their fins but not there body.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF


**** moved to Fish Diseases & Treatments ****


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Welcome to RS :D
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
I'm fairly confident that I read where Lee stated something like (Not a quote)

In the wild they don't normally get it but it can happen in our systems!
 

leebca

Well-Known Member
Treat the Mandarins (Dragonettes) as you would any other fish, exposed to Marine Ich. Just follow this post: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/52236-curing-fish-marine-ich.html

1. Remove all fish from your display tank and let it go fishless for 8 weeks. Don't move anything else out. But a quarantine tank. The setup should cost less than $50 and you'll need it in the future to quarantine all new marine lifeforms. It's part of the hobby.

2. Yes they do. In the confines of an aquarium they do get Marine Ich and keep it alive, though they themselves usually don't die of it. Get that tank. You can use a used one. You can also use a plastic container, but that isn't very good for the close inspection of your fish during the treatment.

 

Bennyboy515

New Member
Hey bud, ick sucks i had it when i first started i bought some stuff from petco and it makes the glass nasty but it worked, also try not to buy fish with white spots, I heard that you can get it too from drastic temp changes like when you do water changes, so heat it to the same temp as the aquarium, I killed like 6 fishes doing a 50/50 water change with cold water. :eek:h:





Just wanna start off by saying hello to all.

I know there has been alot of discussions on ich but I still have a few questions.
I broke out with with ich in my main tank which is 44 gallons. I have a small tank (14 gallon nano cube ) , which I also keep fish and coral. In my 44 gallon I have lots of coral, 2 clown, flame angel, psuedochromis ,mandarin goby, and a purple firefish. In my 14 gallon I have coral, mandarin goby and 1 clown goby.

Question#1: My question is, what would be the best way to treat my big tank. Should I put all my coral from the small tank into the big tank and then put all the fish in the 14gallon tank and do hyposalinity treatment. Im thinking this would be to small and lead to stress. I cannot really afford to buy another tank at the moment.

Quesiton #2: Can Mandarin Gobies get ich? If I do decide to put everyone in the 14gallon I can put the mandarin back together and leave them in the main tank. The reason why I ask is that ive seen white spots on their fins but not there body.
 
Actually, they can. They have a slime coat that reduces the chances but it is definitely possible.
Also a UV sterilizer can only work on the parasites that are in the portion of the water that goes through it and even that some people argue with. It will not eliminate the parasite from your system.
Also temp changes, overcrowding, and other stressors do not "cause" ich. They lower the fish's immune system which makes them more susceptible to any parasite that is already in the system.

The only way to eradicate this plague is by following Lee's instructions above.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
Mandarin Dragonettes CAN NOT get ich.
Actually, they can. They have a slime coat that reduces the chances but it is definitely possible.
Also a UV sterilizer can only work on the parasites that are in the portion of the water that goes through it and even that some people argue with. It will not eliminate the parasite from your system.
Also temp changes, overcrowding, and other stressors do not "cause" ich. They lower the fish's immune system which makes them more susceptible to any parasite that is already in the system.

The only way to eradicate this plague is by following Lee's instructions above.

I should point out that this is a 6 year old thread. By this time the disease has been resolved one way or another. (grin)
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
@29Gsaltaquatics

welcomefish.gif


to ReefSanctuary, a real Sanctuary of reef forums, with lots of very nice members
 

Jake Papp

New Member
So, I have ich (seen on my tang after my temp dropped) and I am setting up my hospital tank so I can treat the fish and leave the DT fallow. But I have no idea how I can keep my dragonets feeding during the treatment as the copper pentahydrate would kill their copepod food. I do believe the dragonets can be a vector for the ich despite their improved slime coating, so I want to treat them if possible. Maybe I can keep them in a 2nd separate hospital tank with expendable live rock and copepods during the fallow period, and then treat them in the last day or two before all the fish go back in. Then they might have no food for only a short time, and the copper could still kill any parasites in them.

I will happen to have two hospital tanks set up regardless I think, so that may open some other possibilities. I am not really interested in hyposalinity or "bouncing" them from tank to tank, too stressful and not sure enough.

Thanks,
Jake
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
Often you can get dragonets to eat things like frozen bloodworms or live black worms or live white worms. If you can get them to do this, your home free as far as feeding them in quarantine goes. If using live blackworms or live white worms, feed small amounts and make sure they get eaten. These live worms don't last too long in SW.

Having a lot of expendable live rock in a tank is unlikely to really work, since you need about 40 to 50 lbs of rock to product enough pods for a single fish.

Keep in mind that the main display system will need to have no fish in it for 8 to 10 weeks to be sure of taking care of SW Ich. Hyposalinity will work but it will also kill off most of the pods and the "good guy" bacteria on the rock, so it's not really a solution if you want pod production.
 

Jake Papp

New Member
Ok, I have relocated a mandarin to the refugium, going to try to get him to eat another food and watch him. If he will easily take other food, then I don't have too much too worry about. Of course, my dragonets are pretty used to eating pods in my tank, they may need to get hungry to take the other food.

Also, I was thinking I could move the dragonets to the refugium and install the uv light on the line from the DT to the refugium. That way any ich coming from the rocky tank above would get toasted by the light (hopefully, it is 36w). I think this is probably stupid though... I wouldn't be sure in the end anyways.
 
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