Hair algea

[Dantheclownfishman108]

Hi folks my name is Daniel just wondering what is the best way to remove or control hair algae.

my fathers tank has a lot of it growing all over the place and it has even started to grow over the corals which has resulted in some corals and sea fans dying.

All the water parameters are good and the tank is run on the triton method.

I tested his water and the only thing that stood out to me was that the phosphate & Nitrate we’re both close to 0

can anyone give me some advice on how to deal with this algae problem.

The tank is 1000L and about 5 years old

 

[PSU4ME]

Hmm that all doesn’t add up. Can you post pics of the algae? Zero phates and trates make me think Dinos

 

[Dantheclownfishman108]

I was trying to post a picture off my phone but it’s saying the file is too big ?
The algae definitely is hairy

 

[Blue Space]

Sometimes the low test numbers for phosphates and nitrates can be misleading. If there's an algae outbreak in a tank then something is fueling it. The algae in the tank is consuming them and keeping the your test numbers down.

 

[Dantheclownfishman108]

I heard that can happen is that due to hidden phosphates and nitrates in the live rock .

also what would be the best way to remove it from the tank . I’ve tried manually removing it by Han and I have done plenty of water changes but they don’t seem to be helping .

 

[Blue Space]

Since you are using the triton method, are you submitting your ICP-OES tests to them? Their email that includes your test results should indicate any issues and instructions on how to fix using the Triton method.

If not, you can use manual removal of the algae and any of the store bought remedies to reduce NO3 & NO4 but most importantly you need to identify the reason for high nutrients. What's your current filtration? Are you using filter socks and are they cleaned regularly? Also, related back to the triton method, are you doing water changes (how much/frequency)?

 

[DaveK]

I think algae control issues are some of the most frequent things asked about. I have posted this before, but it's quite applicable to your problem. I'm sure you'll find several areas that need improvement on your system, First thing I'd look at is over feeding and / or overstocking the tank.

As a note, please post the exact test results you obtained. Statement such as " ...the water parameters are good..." don't tell us anything. What seems good to you might indicate a major problem to someone else. Also, we don't know what parameters you didn't test for. It's possible you should be testing for other parameters.

DaveK's Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control

Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.

Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -

Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Livestock load on the system

Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -

Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.

Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae will use many of the above methods.

There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.

Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.

 

[Dantheclownfishman108]

Since you are using the triton method, are you submitting your ICP-OES tests to them? Their email that includes your test results should indicate any issues and instructions on how to fix using the Triton method.

If not, you can use manual removal of the algae and any of the store bought remedies to reduce NO3 & NO4 but most importantly you need to identify the reason for high nutrients. What's your current filtration? Are you using filter socks and are they cleaned regularly? Also, related back to the triton method, are you doing water changes (how much/frequency)?

No I’m not currently submitting my ICP-OES tests I’m definitely going to submit onthis week as my redsea test kits aren’t showing anything.

filtration consists of 2 large filter socks cleaned weekly
Deltec SC 2560 internal protein skimmer cup cleaned weekly.
140L Chaeto algae bed with
Water changes are done every 2 to 3 weeks
20%

When I brought a water sample to my local fish store I was told to increase the nitrates and phosphates for the corals as they said my nutrients Were near zero.

 

[DaveK]

... When I brought a water sample to my local fish store I was told to increase the nitrates and phosphates for the corals as they said my nutrients Were near zero.

In my opinion, your LFS is mistaken. The reason your nitrates and phosphates are low is because your algae is consumeing them and in turn growing. Addind this nutrients will only make the problem worse.

In SW reef systems, you almost never need to add nitrates or phosphates.

 

[Dantheclownfishman108]

Oh ok that’s interesting I’ll definitely try any lower the amount of Nutrients in the tank . And see if that helps.