C.L. Diversion Help Needed

KimPossible

KimPossible

Well-Known Member
I'm plumbing the closed loop of my new 120.
I decided to run the chiller off of my CL. I have dry plumbed it as shown in the "before pump" drawing seen below. My question is, have I created a vacuum? I don't want water just sitting in the chiller.

I have used 1" pipe throughout the closed loop system EXCEPT for the T's which reduce down to 3/4" for the chiller lines.

I have drawn up an alternative scenario. Would you take a look at what I have done and the alternative and give me some input? I am plumbing the tank myself and am nervous whether or not I have done this correctly.

TIA

Diversion_to_Chiller_002.jpg
 
mps9506

mps9506

Well-Known Member
I don't think either diagram is entirely correct. You will need a ball valve in the one inch plumbing between where the inlet and outlet connect to the closed loop plumbing. This will direct some wate to the chiller.
It is preferable to have your chiller on it's own small pump connected to the sump so you know how much water is going through the chiller. In the scenario you have drawn up (both), you do not know how much water is going through the chiller unless it has a flow meter built in.
The other plumbing method I recomend is to place the chiller on a T coming from your sump return line and have the outlet of the chiller dump back into the sump. Put a ball valve after the T between the sump and tank and that will divert water through the chiller.
 
sasquatch

sasquatch

Brunt of all Jokes~
PREMIUM
Hey Kim, have you got a pump actually on the chiller if not I cant see anything getting to the chiller or out again,i think the water is just going to take the path of least resistance at the T fittings and shoot right by, unless the line between the t fittings dosent really exist. Mike is correct about being able to adjust flow thru chiller, is this a closed loop for tank flow or just the chiller and what is the gph of your pump? Steve
 
KimPossible

KimPossible

Well-Known Member
My chiller has a 1/4 horse compressor in it. I didn't realize I needed an external pump. I downloaded the instructions off the net. The directions show a pump pulling water directly from the sump and back into the return, like Mike said.
I drew up the T off the return line with a valve and the dump back into the sump.
Q- How will I know how much restriction to place on the return line? Maybe a 1/4 turn?
Steve, the CL is for flow. At 1ft of headloss my return pump is rated at 700gph and my circulation pump is rated 1,100gph.
Diversion_to_Chiller_1.jpg
 
sasquatch

sasquatch

Brunt of all Jokes~
PREMIUM
Hey Kim, does your chiller give a recomended flow rate? really I dont think trying to use 1 pump for this is optimum as it will reduce your tank flow, see what the flow should be and check around for another pump, you might get away with a good powerhead if the head isnt too much, anyway the master chillers union reps will be back soon (they know all) lol
 
mps9506

mps9506

Well-Known Member
KimPossible said:
My chiller has a 1/4 horse compressor in it. I didn't realize I needed an external pump. I downloaded the instructions off the net. The directions show a pump pulling water directly from the sump and back into the return, like Mike said.
I drew up the T off the return line with a valve and the dump back into the sump.
Q- How will I know how much restriction to place on the return line? Maybe a 1/4 turn?
Steve, the CL is for flow. At 1ft of headloss my return pump is rated at 700gph and my circulation pump is rated 1,100gph.
Diversion_to_Chiller_1.jpg
Click to expand...

The problem is you don't know how much flow your chiller will be getting, and actuallly it will probably be inconsistent given ball valve's tendency to collect and release crud inside them when operated in partially closed positions.
I honestely think the best bet is to get a small submersible pump to feed these things. But what you have drawn up will work.
 
C

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
best bet is to get a small submersible pump to feed these things
Click to expand...

I agree with Mike...also the way you have it drawn your pump will run dry for a second from the sump to the intake of the chiller wich could be a problem especially if turned on/off several times.
 
KimPossible

KimPossible

Well-Known Member
Ok, mps....I read your post wrong. I thought I saw that you recommended the sketch I drew up.....re reading, it is clear. The minimum flow rate on my chiller is 480gph. I am thinking I will pick up a Mag 7 submersable pump for this application.

also the way you have it drawn your pump will run dry for a second from the sump to the intake of the chiller wich could be a problem especially if turned on/off several times.
Click to expand...
cheeks - disregarding the T and Valve for the chiller, this is my return line. My lfs forgot to drill the return hole in the refugium and this is how I plan to plumb it. My sketches are not to scale. This is ok....right?...Will my pump run dry?
As for the rest of the plumbing for the tank, I didn't have problems, but the chiller really threw me out of whack, I dont know why, I just had a hard time grasping the concept of flow/force/pull....expecially with out realizing that I needed an external pump. I forgot I could download user manuals off the net :smack:
I really do appreciate the help!

Craig- Pics will come soon:)
 
KimPossible

KimPossible

Well-Known Member
I am almost ready to seal the plumbing and add water to watch for leaks. I am in the process of looking for supposedly schedule 80 plumbing for my skimmer, I've been all over town, no one has what I need. I'm going to a real live plumbing company later this week....ohhh and I have to make a stockmans standpipe mod....
Slow and go, but it is coming along :)
 
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