Adding a canister filter to the RSM setup

A few months ago, I added a canister filter to my RSM setup. I did so hoping to solve the issue of not being able to clean/replace the filter media in the pump chamber without completely removing the hood.

Other people did the same and apparently all were quite happy with the modified setup. For quite a while, everything was fine and dandy: perfectly clear water and no bubbles!

However, it seems like this "mod" has a serious long term side effect: build up of NO3 in the tank. It seems to be the main reason why my RSM has been on the decline since a few months.

Are there any other people here willing to share their experience with canisters? It was a big craze a while ago on another forum thread... :)

As of today, I am still running my Fluval canister but I have removed all the sponges and the ceramic tubes: What is left is only a small bag of PhosBan and a one unit bag of ChemiPure Elite and a handful of LR rumble.

If I completely remove the filter, where should I place the filtration media???
 

slakker

Member
I just got a RSM but modded the placement of the filter... I kept the ceramic in the bootom left, but left out the charcoal and mechanical foam all together. I put a chemi-pure on top of the skimmer pump for easy access and in line with the flow.

I'll post if that has negative effects...
 

Arreola

Member
LaurentSeattle - I remove the ceramic and left the carbon under the circulation pumps.
Also, remove all the Sponges and put them under the carbon bag.
On the left side of the skimmer (front view) I put a Elimi-PHOS bag.
I will place a ChemiPure bag on the top of the skimmer pump to see the results.

The down side of this setup is that once the sponges start to saturate, the bubbles start to apear in the DT and you have to clean the sponges.

I rinse the sponges once a week, but I do not have too much bioload.
The good side is that you always Keep everything clean.
 

Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
slakker - Welcome to our RSM Club! Keep an eye on the Chemi-Pure over the skimmer pump, as it can compact and cut the flow, resulting in starving the pumps and making a whiteout of microbubbles.

Laurent - as you already know I also had the NO3 problem with my Fluval. I never did try running it without the sponges though. IMO the sponges are the major contributer to increasing nitrates. I think removing the cannister sponges completely, using the cannister only for chemical media, and rinsing out the media bags in the cannister water once a week, during a mini-water change, may be the best way to run the cannister. I'm also thinking that keeping ceramic bio-media or LR rubble in it can be another nitrate generator. You appear to have enough rock in your tank to handle the nitrogen cycle. Concerning mechanical filtration, that filter pad over the skimmer pump is still a good choice, as long as it's rinsed/replaced every couple days as it can be another source of nitrates. Those are my opinions on the cannister.
 

slakker

Member
Thanks for the welcome and advice. Don't want to hijack this thread but this RSM is awesome!!! I have a standard 72G bowfront and 2 Biocubes (14G and 8G), but aside from the complexity of setting it up, this RSM seems to have everything engineered right into it. Makes modding and tweaking much easier!

.... now back to the regular programming... :)
 

Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
BEELZEBOB - I still run a small filter pad under the overflow gate (part of the original RSM design) to catch food that gets pulled into the back compartment. It keeps it from settling in the back section, rotting, and generating nitrates in there.

slakker - not to worry about hijacking! Stop in the main part of the RSM forum & say hi to the rest of the RSM crew.

RSM Forum Threads
 
I'd like to hear from all the guys from the "other" forum who added a canister filter to their RSM... Did it work for you in the long run?
 

mrfishy

Member
hi folk
hope you don't mind if i drop into this one :)
i was going to go the canister route to use as a phosphate remover
but decided to install a phosphate reactor as fluidising this sort of product seems more efficient, within a week my phosphate level was zero for the 1st time
regards
drew

devon england
 

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BEELZEBOB

Well-Known Member
hi folk
hope you don't mind if i drop into this one :)
i was going to go the canister route to use as a phosphate remover
but decided to install a phosphate reactor as fluidising this sort of product seems more efficient, within a week my phosphate level was zero for the 1st time
regards
drew

devon england

THE FORCE IS STRONG WITH THIS ONE
 

Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
mrfishy - Welcome to Reef Sanctuary and the growing RSM Club forum! Great to see another owner join us. Nice setup you have put in the cabinet!
 

mrfishy

Member
thanks reefmack and beelzebob
looking forward to going through all the rsm threads from over the pond !!!
only other things i have added are an extra tunze nano stream and a stainless grille in the door so my geotec chiller gets plenty of flow
cheers
drew
 

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Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
mrfishy - Nice mod on the cabinet door for improved ventilation! You should create a little separate post on here with the mods you've done so far so that the information can be found later. I don't run a chiller but I may just try that grill mod for other reasons.
 

Arreola

Member
mrfishy - Great mods!!
I agree with Reefmack, you shoud open a thread with all the mods you did on your RSM.

Regards
Arreola
 

tyleratl

Member
I just discovered this separate thread regarding the same topic I asked in the main RSM thread. Anyway, just wanted to add my decision regarding my own Fluval 205. I am going to leave it in place but without the foam pads that come with the filter. I am going to use the canister for chemical filtration only in the form of premium activated carbon and Chemi-Pure Elite plus a couple of small mechanical filtration pads before and after the chemical media. I cut these pads from one of those large blue filter pad sheets that you can buy in a bag. It's cheaper this way. I plan on replacing the two pads every 10 days and rinsing the chemical media in the canister water. Then, I'll pour out the dirty water and replace it with fresh saltwater. This equates to an extra, albeit tiny, water change while servicing the Fluval 205. I'll let y'all know if this solves the nitrate problem. I have been measuring about 2.5 PPM with some Cyanobacteria and my goal is ZERO nitrates.
 
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