Search results

Rule #1 don't trust the LFS until you have a lot of personal knowledge. Their job is to sell you things and make money not to have a successful tank. If you never saw the spike then I would be skeptical of the cycle to begin with. I would be sure to add the fish one at a time. As far as...

When dealing with a setup such as this one thing we have found to be very helpful is gravity. We have larger containers so it takes more room but requires very little effort for water changes. Here is a picture of my set-up. It looks far more intimidating than it is. The top tank is RO/DI...

Did you change names perhaps? It doesn't sound familiar but then again my memory is not what it used to be. I mostly mention that because my husband's job relates to large gas turbine engines. Perhaps you can send me a PM and we can see if you may even know each other since the company he...

You are certainly closer to ready than many and I applaud you for approaching this seriously. I think your tank sounds pretty close. Since you are still reporting on salinity instead of specific gravity I assume you do not yet have a refractometer. This is one of the most important and...

Always love to meet new peeps but local is even better. Do you go to the BARS or ORCA meetings? (Brevard County and Orlando reef clubs if you don't know.) I haven't been in a while but perhaps we can meet up at some point. We may have some stuff to trade. I'll take a look at your tank and...

The only thing you can do is try to persuade it to move. This is usually done by making their current position uncomfortable. Other than the power head, you could try moving the rock and or adjusting the lighting in that area of the tank. There is no guarantee it will move where you want it...

Welcome to RS! As the others have said we would need a picture to make and ID, but just as a note, feather dusters are worms and not corals.

Some of you may know me and many of you do not. My name is Lynn and I used to be a moderator here before life got in the way. I have a bit of time now so hopefully I can begin being more active again. (with my tanks and the forum) Anyway, just saying hi for now.:hug1:

Just as a note for the future it is far more humane to cycle with dead seafood instead of subjecting living creatures to the damage caused by the stress of a cycle. With that being said you will quickly max out on your fish with that size tank. The generally accepted rule is one inch of adult...

Paul has a very unique and very natural tank. Most reefkeepers try to keep nitrates and phosphates as close to 0 as possible. Since Paul prefers a more natural method of reefkeeping he is happy to let various algaes grow. His tank is over 40 years old and looks great so obviously he is doing...

outlet

Where is Allen when I need him. He had a line in a signature that explained it. I'll see what I can find about the way the reduction works, but another thing to remember is that our fish and fish food are always adding to the bio-load/nitrates so some of what you take out is coming right back...

Good luck getting it all out. That stuff puts down roots like there is no tomorrow. I thought it was gone from my tank and then my yellow tang died. Now I know the real story.

snap

butterfly

Keep an eye on it. If you see the anemone in distress you may need to protect it for a time. This is generally done by putting a strawberry basket or similar container that still allows good flow while protecting the anemone from the "tough love" of the clown.

You don't need to necessarily look for the molt. They were just suggesting that the anemone may have eaten the molt instead of the actual shrimp. Meanwhile anemones can and will eat anything they can catch. Most shrimp are smart enough to escape quick enough, but it is certainly possible...

There are a lot of great articles in the stickeys in this forum but here is a good place to start. A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and pH by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

Camo

I'll start by saying a refractometer is one of a reefers best friends. However, if you have a hydrometer that has been calibrated against a refractometer and then properly cared for it can be fine for standard reefing. I wouldn't trust it for hyposalinity treatment but for normal applications...