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| SW Fish-Only Tanks No corals? Have a saltwater fish only tank? Your questions go here. |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Recently I posted several threads on my high nitrate problem. Today, I took another reading. This time I used two different kits. I used Mardel Strips and Aquarium Pharmaceuticals drops/color chart. I get two very different results. Using the Mardel strips, the reading is clearly 35-40ppm (closer to 40ppm). Using the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals kit, I get 15ppm, 20ppm at the most. Why such varying results? I even had my wife look at the results and she agreed with what I mentioned above. These test kits are driving me nuts. They're so inconsistant. Even with the Ammonia kit. Using Mardel, it is clearly 0ppm. With the AP kit it's closer to .01 or 0.2 ppm. The only test that both kits agree on is Nitrite. Bothe read 0 ppm. Do I have a water quality problem or not? My tank is FOWLR. I'm the only one worrying about these results. The fish seem fine. Always swimming around, no clamped fins or hanging around the surface gasping. I cut back on their feeding. I feed them 3 times a week, Mon., Wed., and Fri. They fast on Sat. and Sun. Is this a good idea? I do a 2 gallon water change every other week. What kind of kits do you use? I don't know what to do.
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Plate Coral ![]() | Spend the money and get the Salifert test kits. They are the most Accurate kits, IMO, and worth every penny. They go for about $20 at most, but it's worth it to have a happy tank. Check our sponsors web sites and I'm sure you'll find them. EK
__________________ ((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸>< ((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. `·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Wannabe Guru ![]() | with the bio-load you have on that 15gal I would probably lean towards the reading on the Mardel strips. I believe Salifert makes really good test kits and would give them a try. In the meantime I would go to LFS and have them test your water and see what kind of results you get. I would also definitely increase the amount in the water change and do it weekly instead of bi-weekly. Although a fish only tank can handle the higher nitrate level they will definitely be stressed and could become susceptible to disease. You have to remember that with a small tank with a heavy bio-load your really have to monitor the water quality.
__________________ Robert My Cube “A spirit is manifest in the laws of the Universe—a spirit vastly superior to that of man, and one in the face of which we with our modest powers must feel humble.” Albert Einstein |
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| Elegance coral ![]() | Quote:
__________________ Mark Some days I realy feel old! http://www.reefsanctuary.com/Banners/RS_banner3.gif | |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Contributing Member ![]() | Well, newsalt...I'll give ya a bump for now. I've been programmed for reef systems, so I'm not sure what level of nitrates is acceptable in FO or FOWLR systems. I can, however, comment on test kits. If reagents are bad or old, then your results will be bad, if the brand has been known to give poor results, then you'll see -well- poor results. I believe Salifert will be recommended by many as a reliable brand name. Hopefully, others will send some recommendations your way, too. edit: guess I took too long to post this....so let me add: yeah, what everyone else said!
__________________ ~Nikki~ |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Dragon Moderator ![]() | As far as I've seen that's a common problem with the test kits available to us. I personally use Hagen test kits and they have corrective colour charts for freshwater or saltwater depending on which the test is done with, is there a similar correction chart with you test kits? I also haven't had good results from test strips in the past. I found that they were way off. Another possible explaination would be the expirery date in the liqud regent test kit. The strips have a longer shelf life but the regents I find a slightly more accurate. Salifert has the best reputation when it comes to test kits if that's available to you, you may wish to pick one up or try to get the LFS to test your water for you to see if they match either of your results.
__________________ Michelle Just because something CAN be done, it doesn't mean that it SHOULD be done! |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Plate Coral ![]() | This may help. I have a 12gallon reef. I have to do weekly water changes in the 25% range or else things start going bad. I stress that you do weekly water changes. it's more work, but then we have smaller tanks, and are working with alot less room for error. EK
__________________ ((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸>< ((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. `·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. |
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Wannabe Guru ![]() | Re: Nitrate Test results driving me nuts Quote:
__________________ Robert My Cube “A spirit is manifest in the laws of the Universe—a spirit vastly superior to that of man, and one in the face of which we with our modest powers must feel humble.” Albert Einstein | |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Fish Addict ![]() | EK, is right, weekly water changes would help. As for the test kits, salifert is great, and I've also heard good things about seachem (I beleive it was). The Aquarium Pharm. kits suck, and the test strips are usualy only good for a general range of the water params. I used to have an Aquarium Pharm. kit, and never got a nitrate reading other than 20 ppm. I now have a Marine Master salt water test center kit, and the LFS owner says that it is the same reagents as salifert.
__________________ Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control). |
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| | #10 (permalink) | |
| Regular Guy Moderator ![]() | Quote:
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__________________ 20 Gallon mini reef with mated pair of Maroon Clowns given to Rougiem! 80 gallon reef given to Rougiem/Wooster HS. | |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Update on my different test results: I finally received my Salifert test kits. With the new kit, my Nitrate reading was in the area of 15ppm. The Nitrite reading was the same, 0ppm and the Ammonia reading was <0.5ppm. The Salifert color scale for ammonia just has a reading of "<0.5ppm" not 0ppm for the lowest reading. So, if I'm to trust the Salifert test over others, I guess my nitrates are not as bad as I thought. I still can't figure why my snails and hermits are dying. I use RO water, IO salt and Nitrates seem ok with the new kit. Maybe they're starving. What can I feed them if there is not enough "stuff" for them to eat?
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| DIY Moderator ![]() | Have you tested for Iodine? If I remember right I think Iodine will cause problems with snails, if it is high concentrations in your water. Just a thought, hopefully someone will chime in that knows a little more about this. Also, are you running a skimmer? Skimmers usually take out the Iodine on a regular basis.
__________________ -Troy 180 gallon Reef, 3- 250 XM 15K MH Electronic ballast, 380 watts VHO Actinics, 2- 5 watt LED Moon lights, 100 gal rubbermaid sump, 75 gallon Fuge, ETSS 600 Skimmer, 4700-5400 gph pump for return, Octopus 3000 controller, Iwaki 40 RL skimmer pump, 2- 65w PC 10K fuge lights, 2 55 gallon barrels, Custom light oak stand and hood, misc pumps, extra 600 gallon rated tank size protein skimmer. Purple tang, yellow tang, pacific blue tang, 2 green chromis, 1 Sand sifting star, snails, hermit crabs, 2 mated perculas, pulsing Xenia, Anenome, mushrooms, ricordia, zoanthids, kenya tree 1 1/2" tall, misc other hitchhiker stuff. DIY is my dream... ...well OK the only way I can afford this Addiction!! Just as the light goes on in my head... ... I break the bulb!! |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| the wood dude ![]() | i agree on the salifert test kits they are good,i also agree with ek you have a smaller tank there fore less room for error.
__________________ 120 gal/in wall tank/starboard substraight/2 250 watt 10k xm metal halides/ 4 55watt 03 actinics/150lbs lr/scwd on return/scwd on a closed loop/aquaclear aquatics 200 pro wetdry w/skimmer. ask all the questions you have if we cant answer it we'll make up some thing. remember patience is the key to a kick ass reef. dave. |
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| | #14 (permalink) | |
| Dragon Moderator ![]() | Quote:
One of the most common problems with introducing inverts to a new tank is improper acclimatization. INverts do not tollerate changes in water parameters very well and even the slight fluctuations in the water they came from to the water they are going in could be too much stress on them. Even if the water they are in to begin with is bad and you are introducing them to what should be ideal parameters, the change needs to be done slowly. It's possible some people kill through kindness. Try a slower acclimatization process should you get any more snails or hermits in the tank. IF the snails have been in the tank for over a month and suddenly die, Iwould look to other contaminants being introduced to the tank through feeding, or air pollution. Have you changed anything in the air at you house? Used a new cleaning product? Burnt new incence or scented candles in the same room as the tank? I highly doubt lack of food would be the case. In the wild these animals need to scavenge for thier food, in a tank there is more algae and organic matter they eat that we can't see then we realise.
__________________ Michelle Just because something CAN be done, it doesn't mean that it SHOULD be done! | |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | I know that acclimation is probably my first problem. With the last batch of snails, I acclimated them using the drip method for 1/2 hour. Then, I read that some people acclimate them for 4 hours. I'm going to do that with my next batch. The snails die off after about two weeks, hermits seem to last a bit longer. I don't think it's the hermits killing the snails either. In all my attempts to keep snails and hermits, I've only seen one hermit with a new shell. There also has been no changes in the room environment. One other thing I've read about is the SG of the water. Mine has been in the area of 1.022. I've been told it needs to be higher, like 1.025. I've been slowing raising it during my water changes. It's around 1.0235 now. So, I this raising the SG and acclimating longer should help me out. I'll give another try and pick a few more snails maybe later this week.
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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