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Reef Chronicles The place to create a thread documenting your very own tank: pics, progress, equipment, etc.!

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Old 06-21-2005, 04:23 PM   #121 (permalink)
cheeks69
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Your impatience could lead you to the dark side, you must resist your inclinations, once you go down that path forever will it control your destiny !



BTW Rodger it's lookin great
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Old 06-21-2005, 04:45 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Master Cheeks:

This padawan will not become impatient nor will he travel down the path of the dark side....

Thanks for your great advice...Keep it rolling!


Cheers!
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Old 06-26-2005, 12:57 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Question

Queston?

If you look at post #37...These are both 96watt 50/50 setups. When the new litghts arrive ( 2 36" 250 watt MH units), I will be moving the light set up on the left to the right side. As you can notice from our canopy it really divides the tank into 2 somewhat equal halves. Am I correct in this understanding (or my reach on it!): on the right with both compact units would the watts per gallon be: 1.92 (192 divided by 100) and on the left once the MHs are going the watts per gallon be: 5 (500 divided by 100). Am I looking at this correctly? The idea here as previously mentioned is to have 2 different biotopes.

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Old 06-26-2005, 01:38 PM   #124 (permalink)
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I don't see why you couldn't do it.(but then again im a newbie ) A thought...are you going to make sure you have the right flow to meet each biotypes needs.
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Old 06-26-2005, 01:48 PM   #125 (permalink)
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One MH bulb will cover a 2'x2' area so you could put any of the light demanding corals in this area. I really don't like the watts per gallon rule because it really depends on the type of lighting your using. PC's even if it's alot of wattage will not penetrate deep into the water like halides will so in the section where you have the PC's you'll have to place the corals closer to the light.
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Old 06-26-2005, 01:55 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Thanks Cheeks for the advice. I was keeping that in mind about where to put corals where the light is lower.

Kim: Absolutely! Thanks for pointing that out and it will be adjusted if necessary to accomodate those organisms. One of the things I will have the students figure out too!

Thanks!

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Old 06-27-2005, 12:57 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Weekly Update:

Still waiting for lights and fans. I hope to have them in this week and install them next week. The custodians are in the process of cleaning our building, so I may have to wait.


Question: Tank is much clearer, but I wonder if we are "under skimming"? As you can see from the attached picture, I am losing water flow on the tube indicated. I have cleaned the pump (Rio 2500), and skimmer but this does not seem to help. I have adjusted the air flow into the skimmer as well.

Everything else looks fine to me.


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File Type: jpg tank627 002.JPG (48.2 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg tank627 003.JPG (42.6 KB, 68 views)
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Old 06-27-2005, 05:36 PM   #128 (permalink)
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It looks like you have one of those Red Sea Berlin skimmers. IMHO, there is a design error in that the output hosebarbs are too small. Whey I had this skimmer, I removed the original hose barbs and replaced them with PVC 3/4" pipe thread to 1" slip adaptors. Double check the size.

Then I used rigid PVC pipe to construct the returns to the sump. The pipe should be installed so that is is on a slight downgrade to the sump, about 1 inch per foot of pipe. This gives you a down slope and prevents "traps" like you get with plastic tubeing. The water will flow better because air bubbles will not get trapped in the pipe.

It may also be necessary to add a "vent stack". As close to the adaptor as possible, install a T so that it points up and connect a short length of rigid PVC pipe in the T so it reaches the top level of the skimmer. This allows air in and out of the return pipe, and acts similar to a vent stack in a home.

Total cost to do this should run you under $10, for the length of pipe, and the fittings, maybe a little more if you need cement and primer.

BTW, I would consider the skimmer too small for the tank you have, but since it's a school project, you may have to go with what you have. Perhaps you can get some students to build a downdraft skimmer, or something similar in shop?
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:08 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Great stuff Dave!

Roger, when is a good time for me to stop by?
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Old 06-28-2005, 07:45 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Craig:

Anytime. You just let me know and I can meet you there.

Cheers!
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:56 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Give me a jingle at home or on my cell, I'm running around town today and Thursday.
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Old 06-29-2005, 03:58 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Here is a crude drawing od how to modify the Red Sea Berlin Skimmer's returns for better water flow. I have included an optional union in the picture. Using a union makes the thing easy to take apart.
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Old 06-29-2005, 04:11 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help Dave....Will make it so!

Cheers!
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Old 06-29-2005, 04:57 PM   #134 (permalink)
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One thing that I would suggest be taken into consideration when mixing biotopes is if you are going to have SPS and Soft corals in the same tank that you essentially have the soft corals "down current" ie closer to the sump/filter intake and not directly in front of currents that would blow the water over the softies first then the more delicate corals, as the softies tend to secrete mucus that can be toxic to SPS corals.
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Old 06-29-2005, 06:55 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Good point Michelle. I don't know about SPS but the same would apply to LPS as chemical warfare is the softy's mode of aggressive colonization.
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