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Reef Chronicles The place to create a thread documenting your very own tank: pics, progress, equipment, etc.!

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Old 01-13-2008, 09:12 AM   #46 (permalink)
JoJo
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Re: My slow 135g build

good idea, i have to keep the tank's energy consumption to a minimum(that was the agreement between me and the mrs.) with the weather averaging so hot here the A/C & pool pump run constantly.
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Old 01-13-2008, 03:49 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

Anyone have experience with JBJ Automatic Top Off (A.T.O.) System Water Level Controller (Saltwater Aquarium Supplies > Dosing Pumps/Top-Off > Electric Powered > Plug-in Units )

Since my 55g sump is glass, it may be better to use that instead of drilling, and adding a float valve. Let me know what you think
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:46 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

Jo Jo, I don't have personal experience with the JBJ ATO but have heard good things about it.

AutoTopoff.com

This is a site that only does ATO. I would call them and let them help design exactly what you need.
Whichever way you go, you won't need to drill a hole in the glass. What I did is put a 4" diameter PVC section about 14" tall in the sump and attached the float inside it. Drill holes in the bottom to let water in. The water level doesn't fluctuate as quickly due to turbulence inside the pipe, so the float doesn't bounce as much and turn on and off quickly.

On a different subject, go with the closed loop if you can unless you can hide the powerheads somehow.

HTH!
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Still Workin' on it! 390gDT built in wall, Gargantuan DIY Beckett Skimmer, 150g sump, Sequence Hammerhead closed loop, 75 gallon seagrass/mineral mud refugium, 55 gallon crushed coral/live rock refugium, 30 gallon DSB/ cheatomorpha refugium, algae turf scrubber, DIY calcium reactor, DIY kalkwasser mixer, DIY light system w/4x 250MH & 4x54w T5, etc, etc, etc...

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Old 01-13-2008, 11:47 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

Perfect suggestion, Greg! I struggled for a few days with the float switch "chattering" my top off pump until I figured out to put it inside a piece of PVC pipe to eliminate the turbulance around it.
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Old 01-14-2008, 07:50 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

Thanks Greg, I didn't realize float valves were that small, to fit in a 4" pvc. After doing some calculating to run a Mag 12 cost about $6 a month, Mag Drive Pumps I will go ahead with the CLS. I'm going to use a Mag 9.5 for the return, since i've heard that Mags shouldn't be used as a CLS i'm still researching what to use probably a Little Giant 3-MDQX-SC.

Here is the exhaust fan I picked up yesterday, should do the trick NuTone White ValueTest® Ceiling Mount Fan/Light - 763RLN at The Home Depot
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Old 01-14-2008, 08:14 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

The return pump, Mag 9.5, will be submersed? They don't recommend using them as external pumps. The Mag's also add a LOT of heat to the water. I used Rio HF 32's and I have zero complaints about them. Make sure that you look for the HyperFlow models though. Rio did have issues with their pumps but it looks like they've fixed the issues with the HF models. I was using one as a topoff pump before I moved the sump to the basement. It was pumping water UP 13 feet.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:53 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

Greg, thanks for that link i will be contacting them today. Yea Terry the pump would be submersed, I will have to do my homework on the Rio's I have only heard bad things about them but I will trust your word. How long have you had yours running?

Oh, we should be back in business by Friday. I'm waiting on my D.O.T. results & then I will be starting a job that seems twice as good as the one I got layed-off from.
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:56 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

When I had the sump under the stand, I used one for the return pump and I had it running for about 5 months. No problem. I also have a 28 HF running in my mixing barrel, circulating/mixing the water. It's been running for 9 months. Also no problem.

I had heard the same things about them, BAD... But I read reviews on the HF models and they got good reviews. I haven't had any problems with them. They also don't heat the water up like the Mag's do.
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150g predator tank full of killers. Soon to be upgraded to a 360g.

450g reef

300g sump.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:58 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

I've been doing cardboard templates of the sump/fuge & now I need yall advice. I knew it was going to be tight, but this is going to take some creativity. Lets hear it, the good, the bad, & the ugly.




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Old 01-15-2008, 08:51 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

I would op for the top drawing Add a swing check valve to the retirn pump. Ad a baffle or 2 to the sump for the returning water from the fuge. Add gate valve to the fuge supply line to get the flow to approx 100gph. Center the 2 Closed loop drains equally to 1 drain pipe JMO
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:03 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

what do you think of only having 1 drain to the CL and using that second bulkhead as an standpipe that woul be an easier way of draining to the fuge & T if off to the sump
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:25 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

closed loop is for constant undisterb flow dont use that drain
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:44 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

You definitely want unrestricted flow to the CL pump and I don't know that a single 1" pipe would provide that. Stay with the two drains going to that pump.

The drain going to the fuge/sump is going to provide the same amount of flow to the sump pump, no matter how much water you direct to the fuge. The only adjustment will be how much water you direct to the fuge. And of course, adjust the amount of water flowing from the sump pump back into the tank.

Drawing #2, you don't want the drain from the fuge, draining into the section with the skimmer. It will suck out pods.
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300g sump.
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Old 01-16-2008, 07:23 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

closed loop is for constant undisterb flow dont use that drain

I dont think i worded it right. The CL pump would still have its own drain and return, but I was thinking instead of having two drains to the CL pump, one of the those drains(the one farthest away from the overflow) would be a stand pipe that went directly to the fuge, of courseit would have a ball valve.

You definitely want unrestricted flow to the CL pump and I don't know that a single 1" pipe would provide that. Stay with the two drains going to that pump.

The drain going to the fuge/sump is going to provide the same amount of flow to the sump pump, no matter how much water you direct to the fuge. The only adjustment will be how much water you direct to the fuge. And of course, adjust the amount of water flowing from the sump pump back into the tank.

Drawing #2, you don't want the drain from the fuge, draining into the section with the skimmer. It will suck out pods.


Terry so what you're saying is, the CL needs two drains(i'm guessing in case one gets clogged)? Yea, that makes since, better safe than sorry. But do you think the drain line will supply enough flow to the fuge with it being that far away and the drain sloping at such a shallow degree? Someone was having this problem with their build, i will have to do some searching. The for all the feedback guys
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Old 01-16-2008, 07:49 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Re: My slow 135g build

OK, found what I was looking for. Yea, you're right about the skimmer being there it would be put on the other side.

My 200gl
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