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Old 04-22-2007, 12:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
rebekwl
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Water-QT vs. Display

I did tests on both my display tank and my QT tank today (I do not currently have any fish in either). The results were as follows:

QT
pH-7.8
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-20
Alk-2.25
SG-1.026

Display
pH-8.2
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-7 or so
Alk-2
SG-1.023

So I am wondering:
A- what do I do about the difference in the SG? Do I raise it in the display to match the 1.026 in the QT? Or do I try to get it to 1.025 in both tanks?

B- What do I do about the low pH in the QT tank? Should I add something to raise the pH and see how that works (remember, I have no fish in there so I wouldn't be risking any lives). Or should I try water changes, aeration maybe???

Thanks alot for any help!!
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90 Gallon Display w/ 2-3" LS & 100-120 lbs. LR.
20 Gal sump w/fuge that has 4" sand, LR and rubble, and Chaeto.
CUC - Lots of assorted snails, 3 conchs, Serpent Starfish, Hermit Crabs, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Sand Sifting Starfish (I think that's it).
Fish - Bi-Color Blenny, Orange Spotted Prawn Goby, Scooter Blenny, Clarkii Clownfish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Fiji Devil Damsel, Tomini Tang, Sailfin Tang, Lawnmower Blenny, and Pink Skunk Clown.
Corals/inverts - Pink Branching Hammer Coral, Green Branching Hammer Coral, Torch Coral, Frogspawn, Bubble Coral, Neon Green Fungia, Green Star Polyps, Cup Mushroom, Green Candy Cane, Kenya Tree, Pom Pom Xenia, Toadstool Leather, Finger Leather, Devil's Hand Leather, LOTS of shrooms (red, green, blue), Orange Sponge, Green Monti Plate, Brown Gorgonian, Blundell Buttons, Flower Pot, Zoanthids, Palys, Green BTA
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Old 04-22-2007, 01:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
bluespotjawfish
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Can you do the same tests for your fresh saltwater?
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Old 04-22-2007, 07:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

I would raise the display a bit by using saltwater as topoff water for a couple of days. That will raise it gradually so you don't overshoot your goal. It is easier to add than to take away.
Looks like you are ready to add your first fish. Are you going to treat them in QT with hyposalinity or are you using it for observation only? Just curious on that one and something you should be thinking about. Regardless it looks like your cycle is done and you can get another fish or two to start your tank again.
As to the ph you could try adding some additional aeration. Particularly if you think the tank may be low on oxygen. Otherwise I would add some buffer to raise it a bit. 7.8 is not really that bad anyway but I would raise it.
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Old 04-23-2007, 10:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
rebekwl
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

I will have to mix some fresh saltwater to top off my display tank soon. I will test it to see what the peremeters are.

I was going to use the QT just for observation. Is it recommended to treat them with hyposlainity upon arrival? How long have you kept your fish in QT before putting them into your main tank? I told my husband 4-6 weeks, and as expected he acted like that was insane. He thinks he knows everything, don't they all!!

I will try adding some buffer. I added some a few days ago though and it didn't change a thing. I will have to buy another pump so I can try aeration. The display has alot more "bubbles" than the QT, so I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it. I'm trying to get both tanks as close as possible so I can get my first fish. I can't wait!!

Oh, one other thing. Coudl teh temp have anything to do with the SG and pH? I checked the QT and the temp was way high at 86 degrees. I need to get a new heater because the one I have in there is ancient and the settings are high and low, instead of the actual temps. Would the temp being that high raise the SG or lower the pH?? Thanks!!
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90 Gallon Display w/ 2-3" LS & 100-120 lbs. LR.
20 Gal sump w/fuge that has 4" sand, LR and rubble, and Chaeto.
CUC - Lots of assorted snails, 3 conchs, Serpent Starfish, Hermit Crabs, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Sand Sifting Starfish (I think that's it).
Fish - Bi-Color Blenny, Orange Spotted Prawn Goby, Scooter Blenny, Clarkii Clownfish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Fiji Devil Damsel, Tomini Tang, Sailfin Tang, Lawnmower Blenny, and Pink Skunk Clown.
Corals/inverts - Pink Branching Hammer Coral, Green Branching Hammer Coral, Torch Coral, Frogspawn, Bubble Coral, Neon Green Fungia, Green Star Polyps, Cup Mushroom, Green Candy Cane, Kenya Tree, Pom Pom Xenia, Toadstool Leather, Finger Leather, Devil's Hand Leather, LOTS of shrooms (red, green, blue), Orange Sponge, Green Monti Plate, Brown Gorgonian, Blundell Buttons, Flower Pot, Zoanthids, Palys, Green BTA
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Hope this information is helpful to you. Here is some help I received from Boomer in a PM:

Quote:
My question to Boomer - I need advice on what to do when I get new fish. I am planning on putting them in the QT (after it is fully cycled). Should I do any hyposalinity treatment on them or just monitor them? How long do they need to stay in the QT to make sure I don't reintroduce the ich back into the display?
Quote:
His reply - Yes, just monitor them. If they have ick it should show in a QT tank, especially since they will be stressed when put in their new QT home. This is usually when ick shows up. To be 99 % sure 4-5 wks. To be 100% sure a hypo treatment is needed for the same.

Here are some additional ideas to consider (from me):
Readings for pH and salinity are adjusted based on temp. Adjust the temp in both tanks so they are the same, then compare.

Regarding the pH in the QT - Try some additional surface aeration (an internal pump near the surface). My QT hangs out about 7.9, my display is a bit higher. I'm fine with the difference, since it will be 4-5 weeks before they go in it anyway. Also what are your calcium and magnesium levels in the QT?
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

You know, now that I think about it there was a 4 degree difference in the 2 tanks temps. I'm wondering if that's all it is. I put an air stone in the QT to try to aerate it a bit (I had already bought it before you wrote that I should try "surface" aeration, so we will see if it does anything). I will also leave the AC on tomorrow with the bedroom door closed. It gets alot colder in there than the rest of the house, if the door is not open. I already took the heater out. I really need to upgrade it anyways. It is one of those that has 2 options, lower and higher. It constantly turns on and off all day long, no thermostat. I will see if the temp goes down and then check the pH tomorrow. The guy at the LFS I went to this evening also said something about the pH being lower in the morning than in the evening, so I deffinitely want to get it up higher because I don't want it getting any lower than 7.8 once I put fish in there. Do you think I should add some buffer as well, or just try those for now?

I don't have any calcium or magnesium tests. Should I invest in some??

I went to the LFS this evening. There was a Golden Headed Goby that I really wanted, but I held off because I wanted to make sure the pH in the QT was high enough first. I can't wait to pick one up!! It's between either that one, or the Orange Striped Prawn Goby. I have to research the golden headed one first to see if they are hearty enough for me to get, if so I really want to get one of those. I'm so excited, I can't wait!! I have to get this QT tank up soon so I can finally get a fish!!!

Thanks alot for the advice!!!
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90 Gallon Display w/ 2-3" LS & 100-120 lbs. LR.
20 Gal sump w/fuge that has 4" sand, LR and rubble, and Chaeto.
CUC - Lots of assorted snails, 3 conchs, Serpent Starfish, Hermit Crabs, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Sand Sifting Starfish (I think that's it).
Fish - Bi-Color Blenny, Orange Spotted Prawn Goby, Scooter Blenny, Clarkii Clownfish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Fiji Devil Damsel, Tomini Tang, Sailfin Tang, Lawnmower Blenny, and Pink Skunk Clown.
Corals/inverts - Pink Branching Hammer Coral, Green Branching Hammer Coral, Torch Coral, Frogspawn, Bubble Coral, Neon Green Fungia, Green Star Polyps, Cup Mushroom, Green Candy Cane, Kenya Tree, Pom Pom Xenia, Toadstool Leather, Finger Leather, Devil's Hand Leather, LOTS of shrooms (red, green, blue), Orange Sponge, Green Monti Plate, Brown Gorgonian, Blundell Buttons, Flower Pot, Zoanthids, Palys, Green BTA
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Since you are just tring to match parms. why not just mix back and forth untill you get both tanks matching?...
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Mix the water from the tanks back and forth? That sounds like a good idea. I will see where they are when I get home, and try that if they are still off...

Thanks!
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90 Gallon Display w/ 2-3" LS & 100-120 lbs. LR.
20 Gal sump w/fuge that has 4" sand, LR and rubble, and Chaeto.
CUC - Lots of assorted snails, 3 conchs, Serpent Starfish, Hermit Crabs, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Sand Sifting Starfish (I think that's it).
Fish - Bi-Color Blenny, Orange Spotted Prawn Goby, Scooter Blenny, Clarkii Clownfish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Fiji Devil Damsel, Tomini Tang, Sailfin Tang, Lawnmower Blenny, and Pink Skunk Clown.
Corals/inverts - Pink Branching Hammer Coral, Green Branching Hammer Coral, Torch Coral, Frogspawn, Bubble Coral, Neon Green Fungia, Green Star Polyps, Cup Mushroom, Green Candy Cane, Kenya Tree, Pom Pom Xenia, Toadstool Leather, Finger Leather, Devil's Hand Leather, LOTS of shrooms (red, green, blue), Orange Sponge, Green Monti Plate, Brown Gorgonian, Blundell Buttons, Flower Pot, Zoanthids, Palys, Green BTA
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Sorry, I really can't help with the buffer question, as I am a wimp when it comes to messing with pH levels. For pH I find it is best to let the tank settle in where it wants to be than to fight it. If you fight it, it may continually go up and down and once you get fish it will be stressful. 7.8 is considered normal, and since it is normal, I wouldn't add buffer. It likely won't drop when you add fish.

I think the Golden Headed Goby is pretty sensitive. My lfs talked me out of them recently. I don't know about the Prawn goby.

I just got my first new fish in my QT this week, and expect another arrival this morning from Divers Den. It's very exciting! Can't wait.
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

I would not try to match exactly the water parameters of the QT with the main disply; instead, keep them both within the acceptable parameters found here--> Reef Aquarium Water Parameters by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
For a Fish-only QT, concentrate on the temp, salinity and PH.

The QT and display will vary drastically due to the differences in water volume, flow, lighting, algae, livestock, etc... Don't drive yourself crazy trying to keep the two exactly the same.

My QT stays at a constant 7.9 and my display jumps from 8.0-8.35. (higher at the end of the day due to the lights/photosynthesis)

Be cautious adding buffers to raise PH. The buffers will impact the alkalinity and having too high of alk can cause your calcium to fall out of solution (snow storm).... keep the alk (buffer) at the recommended levels in the link given above.
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Old 04-27-2007, 06:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Thanks alot! I will just worry about keeping them both within guidelines, but I won't stress over it anymore. I checked mt QT just a few mins ago and the temp has gone down 5 degrees. The pH is the EXACT SAME on the test I've been using. I used another pH test that I have and that one registered 8.0. I'd rather believe that one, but of course I have no way of knowing which is actually right, unless I get another. Temp salinity and pH (for that 1 test at least) seem to be good right now, so I am going to go ahead and let it be.

I will deffinitely do some research on the Golden Head Goby. I certainly do no think I am ready for anything too sensitive yet. They are gorgeous though aren't they?
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90 Gallon Display w/ 2-3" LS & 100-120 lbs. LR.
20 Gal sump w/fuge that has 4" sand, LR and rubble, and Chaeto.
CUC - Lots of assorted snails, 3 conchs, Serpent Starfish, Hermit Crabs, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Sand Sifting Starfish (I think that's it).
Fish - Bi-Color Blenny, Orange Spotted Prawn Goby, Scooter Blenny, Clarkii Clownfish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Fiji Devil Damsel, Tomini Tang, Sailfin Tang, Lawnmower Blenny, and Pink Skunk Clown.
Corals/inverts - Pink Branching Hammer Coral, Green Branching Hammer Coral, Torch Coral, Frogspawn, Bubble Coral, Neon Green Fungia, Green Star Polyps, Cup Mushroom, Green Candy Cane, Kenya Tree, Pom Pom Xenia, Toadstool Leather, Finger Leather, Devil's Hand Leather, LOTS of shrooms (red, green, blue), Orange Sponge, Green Monti Plate, Brown Gorgonian, Blundell Buttons, Flower Pot, Zoanthids, Palys, Green BTA
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

The ones I saw a few days ago (at your lfs where you got your shrimp and starfish) were very pretty!
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:38 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Yes! The ones there yesterday were very pretty too. I originally wanted the Orange Prawn, from seeing them online, but instantly fell in love with the golden heads. Can you get netting from pretty much anywhere to cover the tank? I forgot to look yesterday while I was out...
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90 Gallon Display w/ 2-3" LS & 100-120 lbs. LR.
20 Gal sump w/fuge that has 4" sand, LR and rubble, and Chaeto.
CUC - Lots of assorted snails, 3 conchs, Serpent Starfish, Hermit Crabs, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Sand Sifting Starfish (I think that's it).
Fish - Bi-Color Blenny, Orange Spotted Prawn Goby, Scooter Blenny, Clarkii Clownfish, Yellow Watchman Goby, Fiji Devil Damsel, Tomini Tang, Sailfin Tang, Lawnmower Blenny, and Pink Skunk Clown.
Corals/inverts - Pink Branching Hammer Coral, Green Branching Hammer Coral, Torch Coral, Frogspawn, Bubble Coral, Neon Green Fungia, Green Star Polyps, Cup Mushroom, Green Candy Cane, Kenya Tree, Pom Pom Xenia, Toadstool Leather, Finger Leather, Devil's Hand Leather, LOTS of shrooms (red, green, blue), Orange Sponge, Green Monti Plate, Brown Gorgonian, Blundell Buttons, Flower Pot, Zoanthids, Palys, Green BTA
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Old 04-28-2007, 10:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

Make sure you look at the Golden Headed Sleeper Goby carefully. They are notorious for getting worm/parasite in their stomach and it causes them to be emaciated and have to be fed constantly even though they just get smaller and smaller and eventually die. Just look carefully at their stomach and make sure they are plump, they will have no issues about taking food when they are like this because they are starving, so that isn't a good indicator, just be carefull it's very sad. I know this because I tried getting one for about 4 months that was healthy and never could find a good specimen, hope this helps.

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Old 04-28-2007, 11:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Water-QT vs. Display

I haven't been able to find the netting locally. I have some extra at my place that you could have if you need some. I have a hard plastic 1/4 spacing type or a very thin pond net (check it out in the Bluespot Forum (Dentoid is using it in a screen frame).
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