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View Poll Results: Do you use Active Carbon
Yes 106 78.52%
No 29 21.48%
Voters: 135. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-23-2005, 03:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
Boomer
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Re: Active Carbon

I figured I would get the "crushed" question

Once it has made one cycle remove (it should be in a be in a mess bag), put the bag under running water and crush the carbon as best you can with just your hands or beat on it with your fists as you tumble it. This will beak some of the GAC and produce new surface areas. I use to do this for a couple of min. rinse and then put back in. This will also remove allot of the crude in the GAC that has coated the surface.

Flow dynamics , no, it should not effect it at all . Most GAC is just granular. However, doing this with something like SeaChem Labs Matrix may not be a good thing as one of its characteristics is flow dynamics as it a round "bead" shaped GAC.

My method of choice is only one. A powered canister filter and only a Eheim. It has what I will call a "positive flow" filter. Meaning, water only enters in from the bottom and must go out only from the top. Many of the newer types the water enters and leaves from the top. These types often have "self-propagated" by-passes. If the media gets plugged the water just passes around it , often with little flow lose ( i.e.. Hagen Fluval). In the Eheim the flow will slow down and maybe even come to a complete stop, if left unattended, as water is forced to go through the media. It does not have these channeled "side-walls" like others, where water runs down the channeled side-walls to the bottom and the up through the media to the top of exit or vise-versa. You could also make your own canister with PVC and jsut get a small pump.

Eheim


Fluval
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Old 11-24-2005, 01:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

Eheim makes a great canister. Tough to beat that German engineering. I've had pretty good luck with the Magnum 350 and HOT canisters for the same reason. water gets forced thru the carbon from the inside-out, and rarely forms by-pass channels. Not worth much for anything like biological filtration, (o.k. for micron filtration) and since I only would run it for about a week, I think it performed to my expectations.
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Old 11-24-2005, 10:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

i run it passively in the sump, rinsed weekly for a month
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Old 11-25-2005, 12:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

thats what i like about the vortex filter also,,,water must go through the sleeve, and if you use their powdered carbon, all water is forced through the carbon.
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I couldn't agree more on your statement above. With 61 yrs in the hobby, the last 41 yrs in the saltwater end exclusively, I, too, can do things that others should NOT.
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Old 11-25-2005, 12:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

Great info Boomer. I never thought of running carbon before but now im thinking twice.
Once I went with reefing and mud systems I ended up putting my mag. 350 canister on my kids 10 gal. fresh. LOL. well looks like im taking that back!
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

Witt

vortex filter

I could not have lived with out this filter But one needs to know what the are doing with it or Poof black water
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:54 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomer
Witt

vortex filter

I could not have lived with out this filter But one needs to know what the are doing with it or Poof black water
this is one of the challenges that brings one OFR status
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*Disclaimer*
i say this as my best advice to a beginner. do not,,,and i repeat,,,,,DO NOT look at my tank as an example....i have a well practised eye, decades of experience, and a trunkload of failures to allow me to force the issue and get away with things most cannot~
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amphibious View Post
I couldn't agree more on your statement above. With 61 yrs in the hobby, the last 41 yrs in the saltwater end exclusively, I, too, can do things that others should NOT.
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Old 11-30-2005, 02:03 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

I use Aqua-Tech wally world lol
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:37 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

Activated carbons are customized for customers. Does this carbon list info like iodine #, molasses #, and the like? Does it look like gravel or does it look like uniform cylinders?

These things make a difference in effectiveness.
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:50 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

i run it once a month for about 5 days.....
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:59 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

It's important to use good quality carbon as there is a substantial quality difference.



It's also important to use the correct type of carbon. See that all of the pelletized corals are shown as the least effective. That's because pelletized carbons are vapor phase carbons intended to be used in air as opposed to under water.

http://www.pets-warehouse.com/carbon.htm
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

I run carbon just to polish the water when it looks cloudy, about 3 to 5 days a month.... dats it.

And So begins the great Carbon Debate.... heehhehe
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Old 12-03-2005, 11:45 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

Great info Fishcrazy..karma to ya~
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:22 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

Man Why I think of using carbon in a Vortex filter? I assume a carbon powder is more efficient than larger grain size so a vortex would be well suited . How does carbon and diatomaceous earth differ in what and how they filter the water? I assume the carbon absorbs and the diatom earth physically traps.

Last edited by cracker : 03-21-2006 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 03-21-2006, 11:17 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Re: Active Carbon

They (a layer of diatom powder and a layer of powdered carbon) will filter it down to submicro levels. If you let it run to long they actaully go dead and stop pumping water.
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