Lighting for a 10g nano

proud2bcanadian · 10-21-2004, 08:38 PM

Could I use one (possibly even two) 50Watt MH(s) for a 10g nano?

I just want to have some anemones, zoos, acros, ricordias, staghorns, mushrooms, a toadstool, polyps, and possibly a brain.

I'm not good at all with corals and such but I do know that what I listed is a lot... that's why I'm asking your opinion on what can be put in a 10g nano with one (possibly even two) 50Watt MH(s).

Thank you,

tommyp · 10-21-2004, 10:53 PM

Why not go for a single 150de?

fidojoe · 10-22-2004, 01:32 AM

I didn't know they even made 50w, I knew they made 70 tho. But like tommy said, a 150DE would be sweet!

Also, I could see that getting real full real fast with that list of corals/inverts. You could put frags in there, but once they grow out, there's gonna be serious chemical warfare, and the anemones can/will sting and kill all.

proud2bcanadian · 10-22-2004, 03:58 PM

What's DE?
lol

fidojoe · 10-22-2004, 04:17 PM

Double ended... commonly mistaken as HQI.

The bulb connects to the socket similar to a halogen lamp, as opposed to a mogul type socket.

proud2bcanadian · 10-22-2004, 04:23 PM

...Thanks...

How do you set such a thing up?
I knew about such things, but I've never actually seen how it's setup!

EDIT: BTW, Is it possible to DIY?

TIA,

proud2bcanadian · 10-23-2004, 08:46 PM

What about T5 Lighting?
Pro's/Con's?

Thanks,

fidojoe · 10-24-2004, 03:57 PM

I know that you can DIY halides to an extent, but for those, its almost as cheap just to buy them off ebay as pre-assembled kits.

As far as T5's go, I haven't been all to impressed with them so far. Reason being that they are pretty dim unless you have really good reflectors on them, and after all costs factored in, you're better off with PC's or MH. I'm not a fan of VHO, cause its seems that you need double the wattage to equal the output of PC's IMO. I don't have halides because of heat issues and cost to run them. I have been thrilled with my PC's so far. HTH

tommyp · 10-24-2004, 05:37 PM

T5's aren't bad on a shallow tank. I use them as suppliments on my 65 and I am setting up a 33L with t5's only. I would have suggested them but the smallest tube is 24" and a ten is shorter than that right?

You should use reflectors for t5's it makes them much brighter. Because you can wrap the reflector real close to the bulb you don't get light boucing back into the bulb like you would with pc's. I still stand behind the 150 de. Aquatic eco has a pendant ballast and 10k bulb for $150. I don't know how good of a unit it is but I would love to find out.

T

fidojoe · 10-25-2004, 03:44 AM

Actually, I think current USA (formerly CSL I think), makes 20" T5 retros, I'm amost positive I've seen em on ebay.

Dingo · 12-22-2004, 07:55 AM

From what I've heard, T5's aren't terribly reliable. They burn out all the time. VHO's beat PC's for results. They are a time tested and proven platform. They also need frequent replacement. A 70 Watt MH would do just fine over a 10 gallon, and you will be quite happy with the results. IME, a single MH bulb causes less heat problems than a 96W PC fixture. Simply build an open backed hood and screw in a PC fan to the back of it to blow air through.

There are many DIY 70W MH plans. Just do a google search. A double ended bulb needs a glass UV sheild between the bulb and the tank or the UV radiation will fry your corals. A single ended bulb does not need to be sheilded, but the smallest size if 150W. I personally have a 250W single ended MH bulb over my 10G, but I only raise SPS.

Cosmo^Kramer · 01-15-2005, 09:04 AM

Dingo is correct,I have a 96w powerquad on my 10 and swapped it with my 70w MH.The 96w threw more heat then the 70w halide.I think i may end up with the 70w 10,000k MH and 2 36w pc atinic's under my DIY canopy.You also need a fan and a few vent holes on the top.I plan on monti caps but may add a small RBTA..

Hope this helped

mattie · 01-19-2005, 08:14 PM

you should be more certain about what you want to get in a 10g as far as live stock before you pic out the light becouse as you already know certain corals need more light than others. mushrooms and most soft corals do not need mh lighting to do well
acros and certian clams require very strong lighting such as mh.
a 150mh would be very bright and would grow anthing you wanted in the light department for a 10g nano.
my thought was certian corals don't well tother becouse the like different water flow as well as light
and some really do not to be slimed by others

10-21-2004, 08:38 PM	#1 (permalink)
proud2bcanadian Plate Coral Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 708 View Gallery Karma Komment	Lighting for a 10g nano Could I use one (possibly even two) 50Watt MH(s) for a 10g nano? I just want to have some anemones, zoos, acros, ricordias, staghorns, mushrooms, a toadstool, polyps, and possibly a brain. I'm not good at all with corals and such but I do know that what I listed is a lot... that's why I'm asking your opinion on what can be put in a 10g nano with one (possibly even two) 50Watt MH(s). Thank you, __________________ David Liles

10-21-2004, 10:53 PM	#2 (permalink)
tommyp Neon dottyback Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: VT Posts: 659 View Gallery Karma Komment	Why not go for a single 150de? __________________ "I think that you can start the bombs of oceanrunner. They are good bombs for a rollback." 190g (60x30x25) upgrade in progress, 90g basement sump Check it out here!

10-22-2004, 01:32 AM	#3 (permalink)
fidojoe Fish Addict Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,581 View Gallery Karma Komment	I didn't know they even made 50w, I knew they made 70 tho. But like tommy said, a 150DE would be sweet! Also, I could see that getting real full real fast with that list of corals/inverts. You could put frags in there, but once they grow out, there's gonna be serious chemical warfare, and the anemones can/will sting and kill all. __________________ *Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society* My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control).

10-22-2004, 03:58 PM	#4 (permalink)
proud2bcanadian Plate Coral Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 708 View Gallery Karma Komment	!!!MY 200th POST!!! lol What's DE? lol __________________ David Liles Last edited by proud2bcanadian : 10-22-2004 at 04:24 PM.

10-22-2004, 04:17 PM	#5 (permalink)
fidojoe Fish Addict Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,581 View Gallery Karma Komment	Double ended... commonly mistaken as HQI. The bulb connects to the socket similar to a halogen lamp, as opposed to a mogul type socket. __________________ *Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society* My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control).

10-22-2004, 04:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
proud2bcanadian Plate Coral Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 708 View Gallery Karma Komment	...Thanks... How do you set such a thing up? I knew about such things, but I've never actually seen how it's setup! EDIT: BTW, Is it possible to DIY? TIA, __________________ David Liles Last edited by proud2bcanadian : 10-22-2004 at 04:26 PM.

10-23-2004, 08:46 PM	#7 (permalink)
proud2bcanadian Plate Coral Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 708 View Gallery Karma Komment	What about T5 Lighting? Pro's/Con's? Thanks, __________________ David Liles

10-24-2004, 03:57 PM	#8 (permalink)
fidojoe Fish Addict Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,581 View Gallery Karma Komment	I know that you can DIY halides to an extent, but for those, its almost as cheap just to buy them off ebay as pre-assembled kits. As far as T5's go, I haven't been all to impressed with them so far. Reason being that they are pretty dim unless you have really good reflectors on them, and after all costs factored in, you're better off with PC's or MH. I'm not a fan of VHO, cause its seems that you need double the wattage to equal the output of PC's IMO. I don't have halides because of heat issues and cost to run them. I have been thrilled with my PC's so far. HTH __________________ *Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society* My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control).

10-24-2004, 05:37 PM	#9 (permalink)
tommyp Neon dottyback Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: VT Posts: 659 View Gallery Karma Komment	T5's aren't bad on a shallow tank. I use them as suppliments on my 65 and I am setting up a 33L with t5's only. I would have suggested them but the smallest tube is 24" and a ten is shorter than that right? You should use reflectors for t5's it makes them much brighter. Because you can wrap the reflector real close to the bulb you don't get light boucing back into the bulb like you would with pc's. I still stand behind the 150 de. Aquatic eco has a pendant ballast and 10k bulb for $150. I don't know how good of a unit it is but I would love to find out. T __________________ "I think that you can start the bombs of oceanrunner. They are good bombs for a rollback." 190g (60x30x25) upgrade in progress, 90g basement sump Check it out here!

10-25-2004, 03:44 AM	#10 (permalink)
fidojoe Fish Addict Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,581 View Gallery Karma Komment	Actually, I think current USA (formerly CSL I think), makes 20" T5 retros, I'm amost positive I've seen em on ebay. __________________ *Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society* My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control).

12-22-2004, 07:55 AM	#11 (permalink)
Dingo Serpent Star Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 206 View Gallery Karma Komment	From what I've heard, T5's aren't terribly reliable. They burn out all the time. VHO's beat PC's for results. They are a time tested and proven platform. They also need frequent replacement. A 70 Watt MH would do just fine over a 10 gallon, and you will be quite happy with the results. IME, a single MH bulb causes less heat problems than a 96W PC fixture. Simply build an open backed hood and screw in a PC fan to the back of it to blow air through. There are many DIY 70W MH plans. Just do a google search. A double ended bulb needs a glass UV sheild between the bulb and the tank or the UV radiation will fry your corals. A single ended bulb does not need to be sheilded, but the smallest size if 150W. I personally have a 250W single ended MH bulb over my 10G, but I only raise SPS. __________________ Snail Whisperer Member RSMC&RP

01-15-2005, 09:04 AM	#12 (permalink)
Cosmo^Kramer Tunicate Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Westchester,NY Posts: 3 View Gallery Karma Komment	Dingo is correct,I have a 96w powerquad on my 10 and swapped it with my 70w MH.The 96w threw more heat then the 70w halide.I think i may end up with the 70w 10,000k MH and 2 36w pc atinic's under my DIY canopy.You also need a fan and a few vent holes on the top.I plan on monti caps but may add a small RBTA.. Hope this helped

01-19-2005, 08:14 PM	#13 (permalink)
mattie RS Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Torrance CA Posts: 522 View Gallery Karma Komment	you should be more certain about what you want to get in a 10g as far as live stock before you pic out the light becouse as you already know certain corals need more light than others. mushrooms and most soft corals do not need mh lighting to do well acros and certian clams require very strong lighting such as mh. a 150mh would be very bright and would grow anthing you wanted in the light department for a 10g nano. my thought was certian corals don't well tother becouse the like different water flow as well as light and some really do not to be slimed by others __________________ www.reef-care.com

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)