red slime algae

[tally]

hi everyone, i'm new to this site so bare with me. i have a jewel 260 reef tank its nearly 3 years old and well matured but this summer i started to get red slime algae. i ignored it at first hoping it would go away but it got worst so i had to hoover it out. its not half as bad now and it disapears at night. why have i got it this year and is there anything to get rid of it?? thank you

[Woodstock]

Welcome to Reef Sanctuary Tally

If you don't have an ro/di unit, get one ... If you already have one, check the output for po4; it may be time to change the filters.
Export/vacuum the cyno out, add a phospate absorbing media (polyfilters, phosban, or rowaphos are all good). I use Polyfilters. Also, reduce feedings and the photo period for several days (you can even turn the lights off).

http://reefsources.itgo.com/features...s/cyanora.html

In summary, there are several things that you can do to rid your tank of nuisance algae, and most of them are probably good ideas anyway. Listed below is a recap of those items:

• Protein skimming
• Maintenance animals
• Increased flow
• Feed lightly
• Vacuum substrate or bottom
• Harvest algae
• Stop adding supplements
• Regular water changes
• Use RO/DI water
• Top-off with Kalkwasser
• Regular bulb changes

The primary requirements Cyanobacteria needs to thrive are lighting, nitrogen, phosphates, and relatively calm water. As I have mentioned earlier, cyanobacteria doesn’t require a lot of light, however it tends to thrive under a slightly redder spectrum then any other kind of light. So as your bulb get older and change spectrums, cyanobacteria will have a better chance of getting a hold in your tank. If you find the you are having cyanobacteria outbreaks at similar intervals…around 8-10 months at a time, chances are it’s your lighting that is to blame and your bulbs should be replaced.

Nitrogen is a very difficult factor to control in a tank as it is constantly produced and converted into many forms such as ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and nitrogen gas. Cyanobacteria has the ability to fix or hold onto nitrogen compounds so even if you can’t measure the nitrogen in the tank, chances are there will always be enough for the cyanobacteria to grow. Having said that, it is still important to reduce the amount of nitrogen compounds and nutrients in your tank. You can do this with a good protein skimmer, regular water changes and responsible feedings.



High levels of phosphates are probably the most common cause of cyanobacteria outbreaks in a tank. A few ways it can be introduced through water change using tap water or well water or plain RO water (phosphates are removed during the DI process not the RO unit), food (especially flake food), through poor quality salt mixes, or putting your hands in the tank after washing with soap and water. There are products on the market that are available to safely remove phosphates from the water. One of the best products available is a polyfilter. They not only good at removing phosphate but help remove heavy metals like cooper as well.

[Craig Manoukian]

Great information Doni! Welcome Tally!

[tally]

thanks for advice woodstock, i buy my RO water from my local marine shop(aqua-world) in warrington, uk. so i am going to get some polyfilters and feed less for a week or so. thanks again.
Dave

[Woodstock]

I would suggest testing the ro water you purchase for TDS, po4 and nitrAtes

[KimPossible]

Tally, Do you have any dead spots in your tank?
to RS!

[tally]

what do you mean deadspots kimpossible ?

[KimPossible]

Areas in your tank with little to no water movement.
Increased water movement in our tanks is also essential to combat cyanobacteria

[tally]

the movement is about even but on one half of my tank is 2" of live sand and the other half is broken coral and pebbles and the pebble side does get it more, but like i said it totally dissapears in the evening but comes back by 4.00 pm.. why?

[KimPossible]

Tackle Doni's list one by one.
Determining dead spots is the easiest place to start.
One down, ten more to go!
Keep us posted

[tally]

i will try all doni's list, fingers crossed. if i still have the problem maybe try barebottom, woodstock what do you think?

[Woodstock]

Originally Posted by tally

the movement is about even but on one half of my tank is 2" of live sand and the other half is broken coral and pebbles and the pebble side does get it more, but like i said it totally dissapears in the evening but comes back by 4.00 pm.. why?

Cyanobacteria are photosynthetic. As mentioned above, keeping the lights off for a few days will help.

Originally Posted by tally

i will try all doni's list, fingers crossed. if i still have the problem maybe try barebottom, woodstock what do you think?

With proper maintenance, you should not have the problem even if you have a substrate. Just do the things on the list above and stick to a regular cleaning routine

[tally]

will it not do any harm to all my corals with the lights off for a few days? should i just keep the moon light on?

[Woodstock]

Your corals will be fine in the dark for a few days. The moonlights will be ok if you want to keep them on. Just keep in mind you want to remove the algae's food from the water column so be aggressive with your water changes and removing the diterus, po4 and nitrAtes. Make sure your bulbs are not old; as they age the spectrum shifts to red.... which cyno loves.

[BoomerD]

Tally, not sure if it's available to you in the UK, but many people here use Micro-mesh attached to a magnet cleaner to remove coralline in acrylic tanks. https://www.micro-surface.com/defaul...at_Disp lay=A
It is similar to sandpaper, and available in differing grit sizes. Use the finest ones for polishing out fine scratches or for removing coralline. There is a kit made with this stuff as an acrylic scratch remover as well.
http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/craf...s.htm#aquarium