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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Pistol Shrimp | Help Please Hi my name is Debby. I have a salt water problem.I have a 58 gallon tank 6 months old. 55 lbs live rock and about 2 inc live sand. I keep loosing cleaner shrimp 4 so far.water tests all great according to fish store. I have a sea apple.rose annem.a brain.a orange leather,turbo snails.a Damsil.tomatoe clown fish. hermit crabs.HAD a angel fish and a small fish that is suppose to eat parasites off fish.this morning foung them dead were fine last nite.I am so lost to what is wrong.I have a corallife super skimmer. two power heads moving water,can any body give me any suggestions. Debby |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Over Achiever | Re: Help Please Debby, Welcome to the posting side. Talked to you briefly in chat 2 weeks ago. Can you post the results of the following parameters:ammonia nitrite nitrate alkalinity salinity temperature pH It really sounds like a chemistry issue. Also, how would you rate the stability of the tanks chemistry, temperature and pH? Things to consider: -Sea Apple slowly dying and releasing toxins. -Damsel picking on other inhabitants. -Fluctuating chemistry, temperature and/or pH. -Inadequate acclimatization of the shrimps? You've come to the right place for help. Hang in there! |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Tiger Shark | Re: Help Please Welcome ABoard
__________________ A Wiseman once said build a stage add a pole & they will dance - Jack 2007 ![]() www.aquaticaggression.com Projects & Chronicels http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...car-buffs.html http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...nts-tanks.html |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Manta Ray | Re: Help Please First of all, Welcome to RS!! We're glad you found us. Now, can you tell us specifically what your water parameters are. In particular the PH, alkalinity, temp, salinity, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I was going to blame it on the anemone but you say you find their bodies so that's not it. They are intolerant of quick changes in water parameter such as PH and Salinity. Has anything happened that could cause those to change quickly? such as a large top off addition. The fish wouldn't be as affected by that so it leads me to believe it's a poison such a ammonia or nitrite or something else getting in the water. Are you supplementing anything? How long did you have the shrimp and how do you acclimate them? Inverts need particularly long acclimation of several hours. That still doesn't explain the fish. Are the fish and inverts at the top of the tank as if they are looking for air? BTW, you really need to get your own test kits and check them yourself. Once you post your water parameter and give more info we can help you better. Again, Welcome, we'll help sort this out.
__________________ ___________________________________ Greg All time fav quote: "Now and then it's good to pause in our pursuit of happiness and just be happy."-Guillaume Apollinaire "Being happy can be as easy as deciding to be!"-Greg Kimsey (framerguy) Still Workin' on it! 375gDT built in wall, Gargantuan DIY Beckett Skimmer, 100g sump, Sequence Hammerhead closed loop, 75 gallon seagrass/mineral mud refugium, 55 gallon crushed coral/live rock refugium, 30 gallon DSB/ cheatomorpha refugium, algae turf scrubber, DIY calcium reactor, DIY kalkwasser mixer, DIY light system w/4x 250MH & 4x54w T5, etc, etc, etc... chronicles-akwareum |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Over Achiever | Re: Help Please Any level of ammonia is toxic. That could be one problem. However, it could be a mini cycle from recent dying fish. The pH is high. The accepted pH is 8.3-8.4. I suspect pH shock of your shrimps when they went from the store water to yours. Assuming the water that the shrimps were in was 8.3-8.4 a very long acclimation would have been needed to adjust any invertebrate to that high of a pH. Since you have livestock in the tank already, my suggestion would be to do up to a 50% water change(WC) now. Then do smaller WCs, say 10% of the tanks volume weekly until the pH stabilizes at a lower number. Once the chemistry stabilizes you can try adding another cleaner shrimp. Now that you have a pH test kit, with the next shrimp, test the pH of the water it came in and compare it to the pH in your tank. That way you will know if there is big difference. The bigger the difference the longer the acclimation period should be. I would also suggest running some carbon with that Sea Apple around. All the best! |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Over Achiever | Re: Help Please Get some activated carbon from the LFS and a chemibag. A chemibag is a fine cloth bag with a string tie. Put a cup or so of carbon in the bag, rinse it well with RO/?DI water and put it in a moderate flow area, like your HOB filter or sump. Yes, Sea Apples are notorious for wiping out entire tanks and are generally reserved for advanced aquarists. |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Manta Ray | Re: Help Please I agree with Scott 100%. Most likely you had ammonia readings which stress the daylights out of fish and kill inverts. Do waterchanges now. I think he was being cautious about the 10% change after a week, it's possible you could go 15 or 20%. Get the readings stabalized before adding any animals to the tank (ph -8.3, ammonia=0, nitrite=0) Fish can handle some nitrate, and inverts also up to about 35ppm. Less than 10 is a good number to shoot for. Be patient! It will get fixed. Also, seriously consider taking the sea apple back. They are fascinating creatures and stunningly beautiful to be sure but are a ticking time bomb. They will explode (die) and will kill everything. Also, a Phosban reactor is inexpensive and you can run carbon inside that to get the best contact time. The carbon will work to a degree just lying in the sump but it's best to have it where the water is forced through the carbon for maximum contact.
__________________ ___________________________________ Greg All time fav quote: "Now and then it's good to pause in our pursuit of happiness and just be happy."-Guillaume Apollinaire "Being happy can be as easy as deciding to be!"-Greg Kimsey (framerguy) Still Workin' on it! 375gDT built in wall, Gargantuan DIY Beckett Skimmer, 100g sump, Sequence Hammerhead closed loop, 75 gallon seagrass/mineral mud refugium, 55 gallon crushed coral/live rock refugium, 30 gallon DSB/ cheatomorpha refugium, algae turf scrubber, DIY calcium reactor, DIY kalkwasser mixer, DIY light system w/4x 250MH & 4x54w T5, etc, etc, etc... chronicles-akwareum |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Serpent Star | Re: Help Please I agree with what has been said here so far.What I would like to point out is in reagard to well water.A lot of people who have wells may think that an r/o di unit is not needed and nothing could be further from the truth.Wells historicly have high levels of silicates, phosphates and nitrates in the water.Along with parasites and some bacteria that are not removed because there is no chlorine.It is not enough to say"I dont need r/o di because I dont have chlorine in my water".It is needed under all circumstances. |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Pistol Shrimp | Re: Help Please Just wanted to say thankyou for all the advise. Asked the pet store if i could trade sea apple or see if they couls sell it for me of course they said no so any way. My tank sure looks empty with only two fish left. my sally lightfoot died last nite.Mayby this just wasnt meant for me............ Debby |
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