Please Help! Algea problem

[Marinoman08]

OK i got a 55 gallon tank with:

-2 550 penguin power heads on both sides of my tank that run all the time and flow 145 gallons per hour and one has a bubble valve on one of them
-I have a rina air pump for a 100 gallon tank but it is used for by bubble wall in the middle of my tank
-new light bulbs that work fine, i have them on average hours up to 8-9 hours a day

Fish-2 golbys 1 clown fish and 1 wrasse that get fed brine shrimp once a day.

***I have a red/dark purple slime algea problem that wont go away even with my new replaced power heads. This slime algea grows rapidly quick all throughout my tank. I clean it then a 2 weeks later itll be covered. Any solutions or ideas to get ride of this algea!! pleasee!!!

(Can include picture if necessary)

[Kirblit]

two questions:

what are your phosphate levels?

are you using RO/DI water?

[Saltwater Noob]

Hey it sounds like you have a cayno problem. I have the same thing going on it could be caused by not enough flow 295gph seems kinda low to me. i had mine at like 400gph and just bumpped it up to 1200gph in my 65 gal. Hopping to see it go away now with the added flow will keep you posted. it could also be due to overfeeding or too small of a skimmer.

[Kirblit]

Marinoman08 sent me a PM as follows

Originally Posted by Marinoman08

whats RO/DI? and i have a testing kit but not for phosphate how do i test for that?

This was my response others please suggest any other ideas that may help as well


RO/DI is reverse osmosis/deionized water

RO/DI water is the best way to have a reef. The filter removes all the TDS (total desolved solids) from the water such as silicates, chlorine, calcium, copper,.....
Check this site out, this is who I got mine from and others on this site love these guys as well, just do a search on the forum to read more.
The Filter Guys(best $200 I have spent on any equipment so far in this hobby)

It will be the best investment in a SW tank that you can have, trust me, others will agree as well.

Phosphates and nitrates are the main contributors of algae growth in an aquarium. Overfeeding and overstocking are the two main causes of phosphates and nitrates. Algae can still grow with a low phosphate/nitrate test. This is a false negative which means that the algae is removing the nutrients as fast as they are being produced so there isn't really any to test for, but that is still the problem. Best way to combat the algae problem that you seem to be reffering to (Cyanobacteria) is as follows:


RO/DI water (for all water changes and top off)
Reduce feeding (once a day is plenty, a fish's stomach is about the size of their eye to give you a comparison)
Increase flow (total turnover of water volume in an hour by your tank. Take all your powerhead/pumps GPH rating and add them up and divide by gallons of water in system, good number to shoot for is around 20-30 times turnover per hour, Cyano doesnt' like flow)
Less of a photoperiod (shortans the amount of light to algae to slow growth, don't cut back much if you have corals but around 8 hours is fine for a while)
GOOD PROTEIN SKIMMER (this is a must have for any reef)
Eliminate dead spots (spots of very low to no water flow in the tank)
Manually remove algae (suck it out with a small diameter tube, if you take out some sand that is okay, this will help remove it from the system)
Look into a Phosban Reactor from Two Little Fishes (great $40 investment)


One more question is how old is your tank? Some algae blooms are normal and will dissipate with time and some work on your part. Also post a pic on your original page so that others may chime in as well. I will also be posting this PM on that page so that others can add/delete any information that they find prudent.

Hope this helps,
Kirby

[vdituri]

You said your lights are o.k., but what kind are they?

It does certainly sound like cyanobacteria, but a picture is worth a thousand words (posts).

Most fish stores carry products to remove cyano.
This will only treat the cyano, not the reason you have it.
Note: It will cause your skimmer to go hyperactive so turn it off.

[Surfnut]

You do indeed have Red Cyano Bacteria. 2 Steps for easy removal.

#1 - Feed fish two or three times a week tops.

#2 - Buy a box of "Chemi-Clean"

Follow the instructions on the on the Chemi-Clean exactly. After 48 hours most if not all of the cyano should be gone. If needed do a second treatment to rid yourself of any straggler patches of Cyano.


Don't forget to turn off your Skimmer.... Easiest way to horse up the Chemi-Clean cycle...

Beyond that just stick to what Kirblet posted & you'll be fine.

[framerguy]

Kirby is dead on with his answer. I know an RODI system is a chunk of change but you won't have the success you're hoping for 'til you get one. Also the skimmer is a must, lot's of people here like the Ramora C, I've got a turboflotor HOB and I like it. Increasing the flow will Definately help! Best of luck to you.

[abuerkel]

I had a red algea problem in my 125gal.I used ultralife red slime remover and it worked like a charm.

[ninjataco777]

i used ultralife red slime remover and all my fish died...
id take the air pump out, they just dont look right to me in reefs

[DaveK]

Originally Posted by Surfnut

...
#2 - Buy a box of "Chemi-Clean"
...

Originally Posted by abuerkel

I had a red algea problem in my 125gal.I used ultralife red slime remover and it worked like a charm.

I do not recommend the use of either product. While they can work at killing off cyano, they can also kill other desirable bacteria and livestock in a reef. Most importantly, if you do not correct the underlying problem, you will simple trade one problem algae for another one.

Phosphate and nitrate control are necessary for long term algae control. All the other things such as lighting and flow can help, but you also must control the food source.

[prow]

Originally Posted by DaveK

I do not recommend the use of either product. While they can work at killing off cyano, they can also kill other desirable bacteria and livestock in a reef. Most importantly, if you do not correct the underlying problem, you will simple trade one problem algae for another one.

Phosphate and nitrate control are necessary for long term algae control. All the other things such as lighting and flow can help, but you also must control the food source.

i agree with this and all the above, well most

here is a ggod read for you about phosphates, how they get in and how to get them out. Chemistry and the Aquarium

you can drip kalk to. not only does it prevent unbinding of phos but it also sucks up CO2 which feuls the algae increase water flow helps with CO2 aswell. here is a good link about dealing with cyno. About Red Slime Algae - Cyanobacteria - in Saltwater Aquariums - What Red Slime Algae Is - What Makes It Grow & Solutions for Eliminating

[Melanie]

I know his question is about algae, but I wanted to chime in about only feeding brine shrimp. Brine shrimp is very low in protein and should really just be an occasional snack (if used at all.) It's much better to use frozen mysis shrimp and/or cyclopeeze. With so few fish, you should cut a cube of mysis into at least 4 pieces (more if you can) and thaw one of the slices (most people rinse it as well.) Then add to the tank. No more than your fish can eat in 3 or 4 minutes.

[fishnu]

Are baby brine shrimp with yolk sacs higher in protein?

[prow]

yup.

[DrHank]

You've gotten some good help so far and there are only two other things I can add. First, 2-3 days without lights on your tank will help to temporarily reduce the amount of cyanobacteria. It isn't a solution but a way to reduce the amount temporarily. Second, a good clean up crew will go a long way in helping to reduce the problem. Several of our sponsors can help you out in that regard. Good luck.