Grow out system?

[fatman]

There are compression couplings that are made for PVC pipe that are similar to the connections on sink drains, only they are easily opened and closed by hand without wrenches. They are often used on modifications on some skimmers outlets. They are a little more expensive than uniseals, but a lot easier to work with.
2" PVC Coupling Compression

[Frankie]

Good call Doni. I keep forgetting how much different a monster saltwater is compared to fresh. I definitely can see how that idea would concentrate the lower row.

[fatman]

With continual mass movement of water draining from bottom to top it really would not matter if the nutrients flowed throgh the upper tank then through the lower tnan then to a sump. The water will be moving in mass. The water will not be leaving behind detritus or nutrients they will all stay in suspension until removed in the sump. Flow through systems are w ery common in aquaculture and coral growing both. there are growers and aquaculture facilities tha have troughs 40 foot lomg that flow water in one end and out the other. To equalize the flow from your water return pump to all your returns at each tank you should preferably have your return pipes in a continous loop (circle). Then the loop ( loop manifold) should be fed from at least two opposing spots in the loop. This can be easily done by splitting the return. With a return feeding from both ends of the loop you can usually get pretty equal flow from each outlet without having to use valves at each return to balance the return flows.

[Triggerjay]

I was considering the sponge filters frankie, but I decided one large volume of water would be much easier to care for. I never thought of having the top row of tanks drain into the bottom rows though.. I like the idea! Oh, I would also leave enough room above the bottom row of tanks to hang a light. I plan to use a 4' shop light over each row of tanks on mine. I also understand the use of a loop fatman. This way you could return any un-needed flow from the return directly to the sump without putting back pressure on the main return pump.

Jason

[Triggerjay]

Oh, and as far as strainers on the drains, you could either use the pre-made strainers covered in panty-hose, or put a 90 on the tank side of the bulkheads, facing up to control water level, and cover it with panty hose.. Doni, I am going to go with 1.5" drains... not necessary, and overkill, but I believe in having as much drainage as I can possibly have...

Jason

[PEMfish]

This will get equal flow in all tanks. The other idea will get strong flow in the bottom right tank and very weak flow in the top left. I also moved each row out a little to make it easer to work in the tanks. The two bottom horizontal frame boards are 4x4 opposed to the rest of it witch is 2x4. The center brace is also 4x4, witch is indicated by the gray. The back leg of the center brace cannot be seen behind the stock tank.

[Frankie]

I don't know. After reading what Doni said about it it makes more and more sense to me not to gravity feed the bottom row. All the surface skimming will end up down there before skimming out back to the sump. It will be double the trouble for that row.

[PEMfish]

Listen to what FatMan said.

[Frankie]

I am sorry for snapping Pemfish. It has been a tough day. My fault buddy. I deleted our posts. Sorry Doni for interrupting here.

[Woodstock]

Thanks for the advice but I want all 'freshly filtered' water to enter each and every tank. All out-flowing water will be directed straight to the sump.
I have no problem with extra valves and plumbing.

I have found someone selling a set of four 15 gal (24x12x12) predrilled tanks at a very good price!
I might go with a total of eight divided between two shelves.

[fatman]

Actually the loop I speak of would put a constant pressure on the pumps return, and would not have an excess flowing to the sump. It would basically be a rectangle fed from both ends, with the outlets tothe individual tanks spaced out as needed. The assumption or principle is that by having a full boxed in loop and by feeding from both ends the pressure, and thereby the flow, will be equal at all exit points. It of course will not be perfect but good enough to avoid the need for balancing valves. a liitle extra pipe and a few fittings is a lot cheaper than a lot of valves. Ball valves in a partially closed position re very restrictice (thet are designed for an all off or all on usage) and gate valves are very expensive.

[Woodstock]

Thanks again for all the great comments.

This is the weekend to get the grow out together and plumbed!!

Any volunteers??

I have waiting for me at home;

• • a newly made wooden, 2-shelf rack,
  • 10x 20 gallon (drilled w/overflow),
  • and a large bioball acrylic sump.

I am going to pick up on the way home from work today an 100 gal Rubbermaid stock tank (if it will fit in my car).
That will be a total of at least 300 gallons


...hummm... I guess I'll start buying my salt 2 buckets at a time now...

Pics to come.. I promise!



Fun, Fun!!!

[Snelly40]

if you really need help let me know, im sure i can make time this weekend

[Woodstock]

Awwww... thanks Jason


.... how about 6am Saturday? LOL



I think I can get it done...but you're welcome to come by and pick up some frags.

[Snelly40]

seriously if you need help jsut let me know and i'll help you while we frag!