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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Bryozoan | Ich Not getting better I've been dealing with a pretty serious outbreak of Ich in my tank for about 2 1/2 weeks. I've been treating with Kick Ich for the last 10 days, also dosing Garlic in their food. I have lost 2 Percula's and a Large Mustard Tang to the infection since I've starting treating. While I'm treating, my UV has been off as well as my Protein Skimmer, and I have not brushed the rocks or anything to help limit the stress. The original cause of the outbreak was a complete overhaul of the inside of the tank. We took all the rock out and scrubbed it and redid my flow inside the tank to a closed loop system. I had been dealing with hair algae for a couple of months and it wasn't getting better. Of course now I'm letting the rock go again becasue I do not want to be inside the tank stressing the fish out. It's not getting too out of hand so I'll be able to clean the new hair algae up when I'm done treating. It's a 120 gallon tank with a 60 gallon refuge/sump. Now to my question!! After 10 days of treating; I still have 2 more kick ich treatments to put into the tank, my heavily infected fish still have quite a few spots. Shouldn't the spots have started to go away? Is there anything else I should do? Any help you folks can give would be much appreciated!! Bill ![]() |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Rabid Wolverine Reefer ![]() | i would turn the UV back on. this will help with freefloating ich. Keep the lights out and continue treatment.
__________________ ~Welcome to my nightmare~ I think you're gonna like it I think you're gonna feel you belong. A walk to vacation, A necessary sedation, You wanna feel at home cause' you belong. *Disclaimer* i say this as my best advice to a beginner. do not,,,and i repeat,,,,,DO NOT look at my tank as an example....i have a well practised eye, decades of experience, and a trunkload of failures to allow me to force the issue and get away with things most cannot~ |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Wannabe Guru ![]() | Copper and hyposalinity are the most effective way of ridding the tank of Ick. If you have a quarantine tank, I would remove all inhabitants treat them and leave the display tank fish free for about 5-6 weeks. Here's a quote from advanced aquarist: Cryptocaryon irritans is an obligate parasite, meaning that it cannot complete its life cycle (at the trophont stage) without a host fish. Taking into account that the normal time frame in which tomonts will hatch ranges from 3 to 28 days, a fallow (without fish) period of 30 days to 6 weeks is recommended to eliminate this parasite from an aquarium. Removing all potential hosts from a system for this period of time should eradicate the pest from the aquarium. If the fish are removed from the display to another aquarium for treatment and an effective means of therapy (i.e. hyposalinity or copper treatments) is employed, then those fish will be clean of infection. here's some more info on Ick http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...2003/mini2.htm
__________________ Robert My Cube “A spirit is manifest in the laws of the Universe—a spirit vastly superior to that of man, and one in the face of which we with our modest powers must feel humble.” Albert Einstein |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Wannabe Guru ![]() | Also many people believe that if a fish is stressed he'll get Ick, that's a misconception here's another quote from advanced aquarist: Myth and misconception It is a common misconception among hobbyists that fish must be in a weakened state before they are susceptible to infection with Cryptocaryon irritans. Stress is a factor as it does reduce immune function in fish. This makes it less likely that fish will develop some level of acquired immunity after becoming infected. However, stress (or weakened condition) is not a prerequisite to infection with Cryptocaryon irritans. Healthy fish that are not unduly stressed are susceptible to infection upon exposure to this pathogen. It is noteworthy that stress has not been mentioned as a factor when infecting fish in clinical trails with Cryptocaryon irritans....Those that hold to this belief often downplay the importance of preventive measures such as quarantining new acquisitions prior to placing them into display aquariums. Cryptocaryon irritans must be introduced into the aquarium before an infection can develop. Generally, this parasite is imported into a system or aquarium with infected fish. Failing to quarantine these new additions puts the established stock at a much greater risk of infection.
__________________ Robert My Cube “A spirit is manifest in the laws of the Universe—a spirit vastly superior to that of man, and one in the face of which we with our modest powers must feel humble.” Albert Einstein |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Bryozoan | I was specifically told not to keep my UV on while treating because if will magnify the Kick Ich and possibly kill everything in the tank including all corals. I am using the hyposalinity method also, but catching the fish is a rather difficult proposition. My main question is has anyone here used Kick Ich and if so when did they stsrt to see it work? It has been 10 days and it still doesn't seem like it's working. Thanks Bill |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| the wood dude ![]() | thanks wit and cheeks,luckily i have never had an ich problem with my saltwater tanks but did on a freshwater tank quite a while back.thanks for the info i will definately keep this info in mind.sorry web i could'nt have helped you out on this one but i think your in very good hands here.dave.
__________________ 120 gal/in wall tank/starboard substraight/2 250 watt 10k xm metal halides/ 4 55watt 03 actinics/150lbs lr/scwd on return/scwd on a closed loop/aquaclear aquatics 200 pro wetdry w/skimmer. ask all the questions you have if we cant answer it we'll make up some thing. remember patience is the key to a kick ass reef. dave. |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Wannabe Guru ![]() | I have never used Kick Ick Web2000, so I can't really comment on that particular product. I remember a thread a while back on ick and someone there mentioned he had success with that product, I'll see if I can find it.
__________________ Robert My Cube “A spirit is manifest in the laws of the Universe—a spirit vastly superior to that of man, and one in the face of which we with our modest powers must feel humble.” Albert Einstein |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Wannabe Guru ![]() | http://www.reefaquariumguide.com/for...&highlight=ick maybe you could PM justvern
__________________ Robert My Cube “A spirit is manifest in the laws of the Universe—a spirit vastly superior to that of man, and one in the face of which we with our modest powers must feel humble.” Albert Einstein |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| The Wand Geek was here. ;) ![]() | I've dealt with Ich a lot this year because I don't quarantine like I should . Kick Ich did not work for me. Hyposalinity in a quaratine tank works as does Green-ex(malachite green & quinine HCL) in a quarantine or even the main tank. I've used both with great success. Marine ICH I: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.htm Marine ICH II: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-1...ture/index.htm
__________________ ~Doni Marie~ GOT ICH??? My Victorious Battle with ICH 120 Reef Chronicle ~ Breeding Picasso Clownfish~ Massive 300 gal growout~ My Anemone & Picasso Tank ~ Picasso & Snowcasso for sale~ "Energy and persistance conquer all things." Benjamin Franklin __________________________________________________ ______________________________________________ |
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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Regular Guy Moderator ![]() | Quote:
If I were in your shoes, I would tear my tank down removing all rock and catch the fish, much easier without rock and less stressful, quarantine and treat. I would put the rock and coral back in the tank and let it lay fallow for 6 weeks, and then put the healthy fish back in the tank when the fish have no appearance of disease or they stay in quarantinre longer. If you are already losing livestock, bummer, you really have no other options IMO. HTH ![]()
__________________ 20 Gallon mini reef with mated pair of Maroon Clowns given to Rougiem! 80 gallon reef given to Rougiem/Wooster HS. | |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Scopas Tang | I've read of leaving the lights on longer because the free floater have more of a chance to grab on when the fish sleep, or are still. I've not had an out break in the last 18 months with cleaner shrimp, on any of the couple of new species I've put in my tank. |
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| | #13 (permalink) | |
| Elegance coral ![]() | Quote:
__________________ Mark Some days I realy feel old! http://www.reefsanctuary.com/Banners/RS_banner3.gif | |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Regular Guy Moderator ![]() | Any current reports web2000? Hope all is going well. ![]()
__________________ 20 Gallon mini reef with mated pair of Maroon Clowns given to Rougiem! 80 gallon reef given to Rougiem/Wooster HS. |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Bryozoan | I have concluded using the Kick Ich. I lost my 2 Percula's and my Mustard Tang, but everyone else is looking pretty good. My Blue tangs are a bit beat up from scatching themselves, but even they are recoveing nicely now. I did a water change and put carbon in last week to clean out the Kick Ich, and over the weekend I turned back on my UV. I still won't add anything for a few weeks to make sure everyone is alright. So far so good though!! Bill |
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