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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Sump Help I'm interested in building a sump for a new 37g tank using an extra 10g tank that I have. I've done some searches here and on reefaquariumguide.com. All the diagrams show the inlet to the sump labled as "Over flow from tank". What is this overflow? Is it another piece of equipment? Also, all the sumps show internal partitions. How does one know how tall the partitions need to be, how far away they should be placed or how high off the bottom of the sump they should be? Can anyone help in the hydraulics involved: flow rate, etc. thanks.
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Tubeworm | I actually just setup my sump system. The overflow is either built into a tank, which I assume you don't have, or you can purchase ones that hang off the back of your aquarium. The over flows siphons water from your tank and pours the water into your sump. I purchased an Amiracle over flow and a Mag Drive 7 return pump to complete my sump. I am sure more experienced aquarists will have a better answer for ya!
__________________ CTIQ21 ------------------------ 55gal Amiracle Overflow DIY Sump/Fuge Mag Drive 7 Return 2 x 250 MH (Sunlight Supply) 50 lbs Live Rock 3" DSB Scopas Tang Pair True Percs Clown Goby Bi-Color Pseudo Assorted Cleanup Crew -- Hairy Mushrooms Green BTA Metallic Hammer |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Achilles Tang ![]() | newsalt- it would depend on what you are trying to accomplish with your sump. If your intention is to just house equipment then you may need no baffles at all, but if you want to incorporate a refugium you may need several. Let us know what you want to do with it and we can help more.
__________________ John Tank: 29g glass Pumps: Mag5.0 return - (3) rio 100 PHs Lighting: (1) 150w XM 10K/(2) 30W actinics Equipment: Aqua C Urchin skimmer- CPR Fuge, Titanium Heater -Red Sea wavemaster Pro Tank: 210g 1/2" Acrylic, dual overflows, 75g glass sump w/ 20g fuge. Pumps: Mag24 return - (2) MAG24s running 2 closed loop systems. Lighting: (3) 400w XM 10K/(2) Custom Sealife 96w PC - 25w dimmable incandescent Moonlight Equipment: Aqua C EV180 skimmer - CR500 calc reactor - Titanium Heater - AquaLogic single Stage Temp Controller - Aquanetics 1/5Hp Chiller - Neptune sys aquacontroller |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | jks1: I guess my confusion is I don't if I even need a sump. I was at my LFS and noticed one of his display tanks was beatiful; clean and clear water. When I asked him about it, he said he used the Berlin Method and ran carbon through his sump. So, I left there thinking I needed a sump. Right now, I have a HOB filter that has a filter cartridge in it (which I think is making my Nitrate problem worse) and soon I'll be adding a HOB skimmer that I'm building.
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Achilles Tang ![]() | The advantages of a sump are increased water volume- which adds to stability. Also gives you a place to put heaters/skimmers/ and whatever other equipment you have. Its a personal preferrence thing but I would definately recommend having a sump. I have one on my 29 g and I love it. But with a 15g tank Im not sure...
__________________ John Tank: 29g glass Pumps: Mag5.0 return - (3) rio 100 PHs Lighting: (1) 150w XM 10K/(2) 30W actinics Equipment: Aqua C Urchin skimmer- CPR Fuge, Titanium Heater -Red Sea wavemaster Pro Tank: 210g 1/2" Acrylic, dual overflows, 75g glass sump w/ 20g fuge. Pumps: Mag24 return - (2) MAG24s running 2 closed loop systems. Lighting: (3) 400w XM 10K/(2) Custom Sealife 96w PC - 25w dimmable incandescent Moonlight Equipment: Aqua C EV180 skimmer - CR500 calc reactor - Titanium Heater - AquaLogic single Stage Temp Controller - Aquanetics 1/5Hp Chiller - Neptune sys aquacontroller |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | jks1: Funny you mention a 29g, I'm going to be switching to either a 29g or a 37g by the spring. Hey, do you know if a 29g long is made? Anyway, the whole sump idea came up when I decided to go to a larger tank. Can you help me with the sump? Can you show me what you've done? Thanks
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Reef Shark ![]() | You do't NEED a sump. It does provide a nice place to put your heater & skimmer out of sight, and adds a bit of water volume to your system. Another nice feature of a sump, is that your water level in your tank will remain constant, and your sump level will drop. You simply refill the sump to a pre-establishe level, and you're good to go. Your back filter is indeed probably adding to your nitrate load, but you can reduce that some by rinsing the cartridge out every day or 2, thus reducing the build-up of nitrifying bacteria. Not the BEST option, but it will help. Here's a link to some general sump info, and another one to some DIY pages for putting one together. Melev's Reef sump page OZ Reef/D.I.Y. Sump More from OZ Reef |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Reef Geek: I saw that post on a search I did earlier today. It looks great but I'm still not sure I know how it works. The piece of equipment in the center where the LR is is a skimmer right? I'm guessing that the pump on the right is the water return to the display tank. I don't follow what's going on at the left side of the sum. The white PVC seems to be coming from the display tank, but it looks as if there's only an elbow submerged into the water. What is that elbow stick out of the water? How do you know how far apart to put those partitions and some look taller than others. Those are some of the things confusing me. Do you have a diagram I can follow?
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Fish Addict ![]() | Newsalt, I'm no sump expert, but I don't run one on my 50, and I don't have any problems w/out one, but I may add one for water volume eventually. Quote:
Its 36" instead of 30" like the 29. I beleive Oceanic makes them, and you could probably have one made from acrylic for you, or have your lfs order a glass one for you. HTH![]()
__________________ Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control). | |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Tunicate | newsalt, This site has been really helpful for buliding my 10 gallon sump for my 29 gallon tank: melevsreef.com In regards to tank size, I would recommend getting a tank that is 36 inches wide. This makes getting proper lighting so much easier. 29 gallon is far more common, but the 30 inch width is an in between size in terms of lighting. Flourecent, T5 and Powercompacts all come in 24 in. or 36 in. length. So it's better to go with a 36 in. wide tank. Of'course this won't matter much if you get a MH lamp naru
__________________ 29G FOWLR Last edited by naru : 01-16-2004 at 10:49 PM. |
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| | #13 (permalink) | |
| Tunicate | Quote:
Looks like BoomerD has already mentioned about the web-site. naru
__________________ 29G FOWLR | |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Reefus Geekus ![]() | Your right Naru .. the wife said to either quiet down that thing or get rid of it. As far as the partitians, quite honestly I just copied some other designs I have seen on the net. The tank is 10" tall and the partitians are 8" tall to give 2" for the water to flow under or over. If I were to redo it, I would do a stair-stepped design. With the input side the highest, an inch lower the refuge, and then another inch lower the return pump.
__________________ Justin Stealth Reefer |
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