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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Procedure for Switching Tanks (long) Well, if you've read some of my recent posts, I'm considering switching from my existing 15g high tank to a 29g or a 37g. I'm not sure how to go about making the switch. The two problems I have are: Problem 1 The room where the existing tank is needs a new carpet. Since I will be making this aquarium switch, I figure that would be the best time to put in the new carpet because once the new tank is set up, I don't want to move it again to have a carpet installed. Problem 2 The new tank will go in the same spot were the existing one is. Here's how I plan on making this switch: A day or two before the new carpet is to get installed: 1. Add some new, washed substrate into the new tank. 2. Siphon water out of existing tank into new tank. 3. Disconnect equipment (heater/filter/skimmer) on existing tank. 4. Remove live rock from existing tank and place it in the new tank to keep it wet. At this point, the existing tank should be light enough to move (with some help). 5. Move existing tank (fish still in it) and new tank into another room. Put powerhead in new tank to keep water moving over LR. 6. Reinstall equipment (heater/filter/skimmer) on existing tank. 7. Have new carpet installed. 8. Place new stand for new tank in position. 9. Place new tank (already has the LR and some new substrate in it) onto the new stand. 10. Put some water from existing tank into a bucket. 11. Move fish from existing tank into the bucket. 12. Place enough of existing substrate into new tank to achive desired depth. 13. Fill the remainder of the new tank with fresh saltwater. 14. Get filter/heater/skimmer working on new tank. 15. Acclimate existing fish in the bucket to the new tank as if they were new purchases. 16. Place fish into new tank. I know this is quite a long list, but I had to write it down in order to visualize what has to be done. If I'm missing anything, please, someone who has gone through this, please let me know. Also, the new tank will be about 10" longer than the existing. In the event I want to add more "cured" LR, when should I do that to try to avoid an ammonia spike from LR die-off. Thanks
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Plate Coral ![]() | Sounds like a good plan, I just moved and that's basically what I did, though I added all new substrate because I ddidn't like what I had. I would suggest that you use as much of the established tank water as you can and supplement with new salt water, JMO. As far as the LR goes, add as much as you can as soon as possible to avoide mini ammonia spikes from die off and what not. The more Cured LR you add the better as there will be less of a spike, and the cycle wont take as long. Other than that your plan sounds pretty good. Keep us updated Peace EK
__________________ ((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸>< ((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. `·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Edge: Thanks for replying so quickly. In your reply, you wrote, "The more Cured LR you add the better as there will be less of a spike, and the cycle won't take as long.". Should I wait a while before putting the fish in the new tank just in case there is an ammonia spike due to the LR addition?
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Fish Addict ![]() | Be careful when moving the tanks with the water in them, if you have too much water, they can fracture from uneven pressure. The other thing to think about is getting the new LR a week or 2 before doing the switch, and curing it in a 5 gallon bucket with a powerhead, that would be a better way than buying it, then putting the fish in right away, or a few days after. Here's what I would do- 1. get new lr a week or so in advance, and cure it in a bucket When its time to move- 2. siphon as much water out of existing tank as possible (into several buckets) putting lr into one (can be same as curing bucket) and fish into another. 3.move empty tanks to another room (existing will still have sand, and a little water) 4. Refill old tank with water from buckets 5. put fish back in, along with filtration 6. install new carpet 7. Set up new tank, add new sand 8. drain old tank (same way as step 2) 9. add old sand to new tank 10. add water, then lr 11. reaclimate fish This is similar to yours, but not involving the new tank until later, to prevent it from cracking, and IMO, this migh be easier.
__________________ Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control). |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Plate Coral ![]() | What fidojoe said! Now that I've read his comment, it makes more sense to leave the new tank out of the equation until the end. You know Mr. Murphy has a way of showing up and runing the day EK
__________________ ((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸>< ((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. `·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Edge: Thanks for replying so quickly. In your reply, you wrote, "The more Cured LR you add the better as there will be less of a spike, and the cycle won't take as long.". Should I wait a while before putting the fish in the new tank just in case there is an ammonia spike due to the LR addition?
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Plate Coral ![]() | I would wait until your test kits show 0 Ammonia, and 0 Nitrates before adding the fish, JMO. Do what you feel comfortable with. Peace EK
__________________ ((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸>< ((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. `·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Fidojoe: I follow your plan and why you're recommending it. I have on question though. Your way, you aremoving the fish 3 times: 2. Moving fish from existing to a bucket. (1 fish move) 3. Move empty tanks to another room 4. Refill old tank 5. put fish back in from bucket. (2 fish moves) 6-10 11. Reaclimate fish (3 fish moves) My way, I'm moving the fish only twice, from the old tank into a bucket (1 move) then after the new tank is set up, from the bucket to the new tank (2 moves). I'm just trying to minimize stress on the fish. What if I did this: 1. Two weeks before move buy new LR and cure it in a spare 10g (which I have with a powerhead. 2. Siphon water out of existing tank into several buckets. 3. Disconnect equipment (heater/filter/skimmer) on existing tank. 4. Remove live rock from existing tank and place it in the 10g curing tank with new LR. 5. Move existing tank (fish, sand and some water still in it) into another room. 6. Reinstall equipment (heater/filter/skimmer) on existing tank. 7. Have new carpet installed. 8. Place new stand for new tank in position. 9. Place new tank onto the new stand. 10. Add some new, washed substrate into the new tank. 11. Place enough of existing substrate into new tank to achieve desired depth. 12. Put water from buckets in Step 2 into new tank. 13. Put old and new LR from 10g curing tank into new tank. 14. Move fish from existing tank into another bucket. 15. Siphon remaining water from existing tank into buckets like Step 2 and add to new tank. 16. Fill the remainder of the new tank with fresh saltwater. 17. Get filter/heater/skimmer working on new tank. 18. Acclimate existing fish in the bucket to the new tank as if they were new purchases. 19. Place fish into new tank. What do you think? It sort of combine my original idea with some of your suggestions.
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Star Polyps | If the orig. tank is only 15g why break it down at all? Leave everything in it , drain as much water as possible out of the tank. It can't weigh that much maybe 150# (I'm guessing) if you got a piece of plywood larger than the size of the footprint of the tank and attached a couple of pieces of 2x4 to the bottom of the plywood with enough of the 2x4 sticking out to use as handles you could slide the tank onto the plywood and have 4 people holding onto the handles. I would think that this would not be heavy at all for 4 people to move it slowly, as to not upset the tank too much, to it's new temporary home. Just a thought.... *edit* curing the live rock in a seperate bucket at the same time is a good idea, that way everyting will be ready when you need it.
__________________ Don ---------- Then it comes to be that soothing light at the end of the tunnel, it's just a freight train coming your way Last edited by openbrain : 01-13-2004 at 10:30 PM. |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| the wood dude ![]() | i agree with don on this one.your tank is'nt to large and should be very easy to move.me on the other hand am getting ready to move a 35/55/and a 120 all at the same time.wish me luck.lol.
__________________ 120 gal/in wall tank/starboard substraight/2 250 watt 10k xm metal halides/ 4 55watt 03 actinics/150lbs lr/scwd on return/scwd on a closed loop/aquaclear aquatics 200 pro wetdry w/skimmer. ask all the questions you have if we cant answer it we'll make up some thing. remember patience is the key to a kick ass reef. dave. |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Regular Guy Moderator ![]() | newsalt, Moving the fish only twice is a better solution in my opion. Everything else people offered here is right on the money. With a small tank, I just broke down a 29 gallon long and moved everything to a 20 gallon long, it was very easy and I followed the basic plan you did. I just moved the fish fron the 29 gallon to a bucket of tank water, and then put them back into the 20 gallon using tank water. Since I was reducing size, needed the 29 gallon for a sump/refugium, I did not need additional LR or salt water. I too changed substrate, so I used 2" of regular dry aragonite with 2" of wet live sand from the LFS plus a cup of live sand from my 80 gallon tank. Drain a third of your water to a bucket and using Don's - openbrain's plywood stretcher idea, you can move your existing tank to allow for the installation of your carpet. If you are set-up with your cured livestock and additional salt water, you should only need a few hours to do the whole thing when the carpet is installed. One trick was when I added the 2" of new rinsed aragonite to the new tank, I poured some premixed salt water to a level of about in inch deep over the sand. I then siphoned it all out remaining crud, added the live sand, then LR, and then poured the tank water gently over the LR to avoid clouding. It worked like a charm. Have fun and let us know if you need anything else! ![]() PS, I'd go with the 37 gallon as bigger is better! Good luck woodood!
__________________ 20 Gallon mini reef with mated pair of Maroon Clowns given to Rougiem! 80 gallon reef given to Rougiem/Wooster HS. |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Pistol Shrimp ![]() | I dont know if it matters - but do they use solvent/glue when they install carpets? ive never done it, but for some reason, i think they might.. i may be wrong though, but if they do, im sure the solvent/fumes are not good to be around tank water....just something to think about.. j |
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