Diatoms - How long does it last?

newsalt · 01-06-2004, 02:46 PM

I have a 15g tank that completed its Nitrogen cycle on 12/18/03. A diatom outbreak started almost immediately afterwards. How long will it take until they disappear? Is there something I can do to speed it up? I use RO water for top off and water changes. Do I need stronger lights? My lighting is a carry over from my freshwater tank. It's a 15w single bulb flouresent in a typical aquarium hood. The hood has a clear plastic section that protects the bulb from the water. Do I need a higher what bulb? The lights are on for about 8 hrs. a day.

fidojoe · 01-06-2004, 02:56 PM

Your lighting is fine (until you want corals), diatom algae likes light, so that would only agravate the problem. They lasted about a month and a half in my 50 gallon, and in my 20, they just started last week, and I don't plan on them going away any time in the very near future. The best way to make them dissapear, which is only a temporary, fix is to keep the lights off for a couple days. This has been said many many times, but nothing happens fast in SW, its going to take time for them to go, but they will eventually.

jks1 · 01-06-2004, 03:01 PM

I agree, you will go through several algae/diatom phases in the first 6 months. Do you have any clean-up critters?

newsalt · 01-06-2004, 03:58 PM

I have a few blue leg hermit crabs, a few nassarius snails and a few astrea snails. The snails don't live long in my tank, but that's another story...

wooddood · 01-06-2004, 04:19 PM

we use nutr/sea marine tank scrubber by custom sealife.follow the directions and you wont have any algae problems.we use it religeously.

ReefLady · 01-06-2004, 09:55 PM

The good thing about seeing diatoms is that what you are *seeing* is the dead skeleton of the diatoms. So, once you *see* them, they're usually on their way out. This is providing of course, no nitrates or silicates are added to the tank - this is their primary food, and why it is so typical to see them post-cycle.

Here's a good link that explains diatom algae:

>What is Brown or Golden Algae, What Makes it Grow,<

HTH!

Craig Manoukian · 01-06-2004, 10:15 PM

You will probably experience a green algae, brown diatom, and red cyanobacteria blooms as the natural maturation process of your tank. They all appear as your tank chemistry changes and the nutrients they need are present. When your tank chemistry is balanced and the environment they need is not present, your tank will be nice and clean.

Go slow and let it grow. It is my opinion that using chemicals without knowing exactly what your chemistry is doing may unduly mask vs. solve a challenge you are experiencing.

HTH

PS

Great Link Teri!

01-06-2004, 02:46 PM	#1 (permalink)
newsalt Torch coral Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 584 View Gallery Karma Komment	Diatoms - How long does it last? I have a 15g tank that completed its Nitrogen cycle on 12/18/03. A diatom outbreak started almost immediately afterwards. How long will it take until they disappear? Is there something I can do to speed it up? I use RO water for top off and water changes. Do I need stronger lights? My lighting is a carry over from my freshwater tank. It's a 15w single bulb flouresent in a typical aquarium hood. The hood has a clear plastic section that protects the bulb from the water. Do I need a higher what bulb? The lights are on for about 8 hrs. a day.

01-06-2004, 02:56 PM	#2 (permalink)
fidojoe Fish Addict Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,584 View Gallery Karma Komment	Your lighting is fine (until you want corals), diatom algae likes light, so that would only agravate the problem. They lasted about a month and a half in my 50 gallon, and in my 20, they just started last week, and I don't plan on them going away any time in the very near future. The best way to make them dissapear, which is only a temporary, fix is to keep the lights off for a couple days. This has been said many many times, but nothing happens fast in SW, its going to take time for them to go, but they will eventually. __________________ *Member "Crabs Are Evil" Society* My Tank: 90g AGA, 18g tall sump, CSS 220 w/ meshmod impeller, 4x54w Tek T5 retro w/ IC reflectors, Kalk reactor w/ aquamedic niveaumat system, a few SPS, LPS, zoos, and a few softies, 2 Ocellaris Clowns (hosted by both a RBTA and GBTA), Yellow Watchman, Potter's angel, Yellow Tang, Foxface, Midas Blenny, Purple Pseudo, huge brittle star, 2 tigertail cukes, fire shrimp, snails, and unfortunately two emerald crabs (the bubble algae got out of control).

01-06-2004, 03:01 PM	#3 (permalink)
jks1 Achilles Tang Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Jacksonville, Fl Posts: 876 View Gallery Karma Komment	I agree, you will go through several algae/diatom phases in the first 6 months. Do you have any clean-up critters? __________________ John Tank: 29g glass Pumps: Mag5.0 return - (3) rio 100 PHs Lighting: (1) 150w XM 10K/(2) 30W actinics Equipment: Aqua C Urchin skimmer- CPR Fuge, Titanium Heater -Red Sea wavemaster Pro Tank: 210g 1/2" Acrylic, dual overflows, 75g glass sump w/ 20g fuge. Pumps: Mag24 return - (2) MAG24s running 2 closed loop systems. Lighting: (3) 400w XM 10K/(2) Custom Sealife 96w PC - 25w dimmable incandescent Moonlight Equipment: Aqua C EV180 skimmer - CR500 calc reactor - Titanium Heater - AquaLogic single Stage Temp Controller - Aquanetics 1/5Hp Chiller - Neptune sys aquacontroller

01-06-2004, 04:19 PM	#5 (permalink)
wooddood the wood dude Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: marion. INDIANA Posts: 3,457 View Gallery Karma Komment Add yours!	we use nutr/sea marine tank scrubber by custom sealife.follow the directions and you wont have any algae problems.we use it religeously. __________________ 120 gal/in wall tank/starboard substraight/2 250 watt 10k xm metal halides/ 4 55watt 03 actinics/150lbs lr/scwd on return/scwd on a closed loop/aquaclear aquatics 200 pro wetdry w/skimmer. ask all the questions you have if we cant answer it we'll make up some thing. remember patience is the key to a kick ass reef. dave.

01-06-2004, 09:55 PM	#6 (permalink)
ReefLady Tridacna maxima Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 4,590 View Gallery Karma Komment	The good thing about seeing diatoms is that what you are seeing is the dead skeleton of the diatoms. So, once you see them, they're usually on their way out. This is providing of course, no nitrates or silicates are added to the tank - this is their primary food, and why it is so typical to see them post-cycle. Here's a good link that explains diatom algae: >What is Brown or Golden Algae, What Makes it Grow,< HTH! __________________ ~ Teri -------- "You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice." ~(currently tankless)~ Our 180g sps tank / DIY adventure (taken down in late 2006): Our 180g DIY Reef Project ---What's next????

01-06-2004, 03:58 PM	#4 (permalink)
newsalt Torch coral Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 584 View Gallery Karma Komment	I have a few blue leg hermit crabs, a few nassarius snails and a few astrea snails. The snails don't live long in my tank, but that's another story...

01-06-2004, 10:15 PM	#7 (permalink)
Craig Manoukian Regular Guy Moderator Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Marina Del Ray, CA Posts: 19,012 View Gallery Karma Komment Add yours!	You will probably experience a green algae, brown diatom, and red cyanobacteria blooms as the natural maturation process of your tank. They all appear as your tank chemistry changes and the nutrients they need are present. When your tank chemistry is balanced and the environment they need is not present, your tank will be nice and clean. Go slow and let it grow. It is my opinion that using chemicals without knowing exactly what your chemistry is doing may unduly mask vs. solve a challenge you are experiencing. HTH PS Great Link Teri! __________________ Currently tankless. 20 Gallon mini reef with mated pair of Maroon Clowns given to Rougiem! 80 gallon reef given to Rougiem/Wooster HS.

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