**~~TOTW- Water Circulation~~**

[EdgeKrusher]

12 gallon nano reef, and maybe 20x turnover. It's a nano and I don't have much realestate to spare for PHs. I have one minijet 606, and that's just not enough flow, and I really can't hide it. Just thoughts you know, want to make this work better.

Thanks

EK

[wooddood]

well nick i run a rio 32 hyperflow with 1920gph at a 1 ft head.60ft head?i'd like to see that pump.maybe it was a typo and he meant 6ft head.

[Maxx]

Hmmm......
Thats gonna be tough w/o adding a sump to house the additional pump...which will kinda detract from the concept of a nano....
I would probably just add a HOB filter and replace the sponge media on a weekly basis.

[Maxx]

what he entered was 60 feet though....that might have made a slight difference
we'll see.....
Nick

[Maxx]

okay, after changing only the the top number 60 to 6 I got a flow rating of 329 gph. this is different from my inital predictions because it takes his friction rates and 90 degree turns into acount. here is the link...http://reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php...=1&Entrances=1

[EdgeKrusher]

Ok, but if I did a closed loop like the one shown in the picture posted by Craig would i even need a sump?

Peace

EK

[Maxx]

No, but you'll have the pump sitting out and visible. The size of the tank limits the space you have to work with. I have a 10 gallon sump for my 20. Im assuming that the dimensions for your 12 are similar in length (20 inches) and that just the height is different...
I would just shorten the plumbing and go w/ a much smaller pump. Mag 2 is sposed to be good for 210 gph @ 2 feet of head and 250 w/ 1 foot of head. A good thing to do would be to look at the pic craig posted and use it as a template. Use the Head loss calculator on RC and since the Mag 2 has 1/2 inch ports use that as the basis for your plumbing. Base things off the number of 90's and height of your tank etc..this should give you a rough estimate of what you'd get w/ a Mag 2. The one bonus to having a sump to contain your new pump for circulation, (this would not be a closed loop since it involves a sump) is that you can get a bigger pump, construct a bypass and using two ball valves, dial up what ever flow you want w/o over pressuring the pum and causing it to burn out....
Nick

[Maxx]

here is a basic diagram of what I was refering to...

[EdgeKrusher]

Cool deal! Thanks Maxx, another project unfolding in my head, should hit paper soon.

[TDEVIL]

thanks maxx & Mike, now i have some more reading to do

i have been thinking about them (eductors) for some time now, and they look pertty easy to make, here is a link if anybody is interested (Mike you already gave me the link )DIY Eductors


TD

[Scooterman]

Originally posted by Cosmic
Sure 'nuff.
Here's a picture of my closed loop stack for an un-drilled tank.

On the suction side of your piping, you have what looks like a Tee and one end goes to the pump suction(Intake) & the top part of the Tee converts over to a screw on cap, Is this right?
I take it you use the Cap to prime the well per say? I have a few more questions on the suction side again, the piece of pipe drilled with what size holes, & is the bottom capped? How deep does the suction go into your tank? Last if a leak was to ever occur, is there safety features that prevent you from siphoning all the water out your tank on to the floor?

These questions may be moved to another thread I understand. I'm in the planning's of building one right now!

[Cosmic]

Scott,
you are correct in that my intake side has a standpipe that is threaded. This allows me to prime the pump when first setting it up.
As far as how far the holes need to start under the water, that depends on the pump. For my Little Giant3, ,that magic height is about 2". Smaller pumps will require somewhat less, ,bigger pumps more.

The diameter of my holes were roughly 3/8" (or there-abouts). The bottom of the tube is capped so as to not suck up fish. Same reasoning behind having so many holes on the intake. If a fish gets sucked to it, it can break free because of all the other holes spreading the suction around.

The intake is roughly 5" down into my tank, and after priming it the first time, I can turn the pump off and back on without re-priming. So, priming was a one-shot deal.

-HTH-
Cos

[EdgeKrusher]

How do you prime it. I'm new to this whole closed loop idea.

Thanks

EK

[Scooterman]

Thanks Cos, This will be my weekend project coming up. I will run a test set-up with my 900gph Ocean Runner, (it is my back-up for the main sump pump) I'm looking at running the plumbing under the stand, all the way up, which is about 60" off the floor. I'm thinking of using two 90's off the pump then 45's creating offsets until I get to the back of the tank, then I'll need to 45 to the right & up to the top, I know this sounds crazy. My tank is close to the wall & limited by where I can put the pump. I might do something really crazy like add a sheet of plywood to the top section of the stand & mount the pump upside down above the sump, this would cut about 30" of Vertical height. I don't know yet, as my space underneath has a 30g sump on one side & wiring/storage on the other, which can be converted space for CA reactor one day. However I do it, seems like it will take a series of 45's & 90's to get the plumbing up and over to one side. Once I get it plumbed, then I can get an idea how much pump I'll need to make it all worth while. I hope I can get a pump that is as quite as the rest & still produce about 1,200gph at pump before head pressure, which I'm guessing will be reduced to about 900gph maybe. I'm also thinking of putting it on a timer, to run only during the lighting period. I'm guessing I may waste some pvc but will try & make it as simple as possible.

[Maxx]

How do you prime it.

An easy way of doing it would be to get some flexible tubing and run it through the return portion of the closed loop. Place the inlet side of the closed loop in the tank...siphon water from the tank into the closed loop....have bucket and rag ready to catch excess/spillage.
htere ya go!
Nick