Echinoderms: volume 1

[framerguy]

My recent research binge began because I have such difficulty keeping starfish alive and was determined to find out why and hopefully change my luck with them. If there are suggestions on how you would like these volumes to be arranged or what you’d like to see, let me know. If you have personal knowledge that disputes what you read here, post that as well. The photos in this thread are not mine. I hope this thread helps you chose suitable specimens for your tank, and once you do, how to care for them.
ECHINODERM: The Echinoderm is a rather large group of over 5000 described species, and is divided into five subgroups; crinoidea (feather stars), Asteroidean (sea stars), Ophiuroidea (brittle,serpent and basket stars), Holothuroidea (sea cucumbers, and Echinoidea (sea urchins, sand dollars, and sea biscuits). All of them share certain features such as they have no heart or circulatory system, and they have an internal hydraulic system of many thousand valves and pipes. All have a “tube foot” used for movement and to capture food. Echinoderm means “spiny skin” which seems appropriate most of the time. All of them hail from full salinity waters of 35-38ppt. This is important, they will not fair well in waters below 35ppt. Do not allow echinoderms to come in contact with air when placing them in the aquarium.
ACCLIMATION: I believe I have discovered my previous downfalls to keeping these critters and it has to do with acclimation time. I was acclimating 2 to 3 hours only which it turns out is less than half the time required for long life. Echinoderms should be acclimated for a minimum six (6) hours and 8 to 10 is better with a slow drip process. To acclimate, tie two knots in several feet of regular airline tubing. Insert one end in the aquarium and the other in the container with the animal. Using a syringe, start the flow at a rate of one drip per one+ second. Tighten or loosen the knots to attain this slow rate. If you use an ATO system it may be a good idea to add sufficient salt water to the system to override the ATO or turn it off for the acclimation period.
Sea Stars:Since sea stars are what started this whole thing, I’ll start with them. I will list some good candidates for Reef aquariums, and Fish only aquariums, and some which should be avoided all together. Sz= size, MTS= minimum tank size,
RC= Compatibility, FF= Foods and feeding


Acanthaster planci: (crown of thorns)
Sz: up to 18”, most aquarium inhabitants are much smaller.
MTS: Large tanks 100+ gal.
RC: Not suitable for reef tank,(see FF)
FF: feeds on live corals
Packing a powerful and painful sting this guy should be avoided. Eats live coral so unless you have a source of disposable coral to feed it, they will not fair well in the home aquarium.

The Fromia Family: Most are commonly called Marble stars and are among the more beautiful, AKA desirable starfish out there. Their survival rate is abysmal at best. Most will live a year of so if your lucky then starve to death. Their diet consists mostly of sponges and some have been known to accept frozen sponge preparations placed on their path. These starfish should be left in the ocean, but are offered in the trade anyway. If you do purchase one, very long acclimation and full salinity is an absolute must! Recommended tank size for all varieties is 100+ gallons to be able to support their diet.

Linckia: Linckias have a little better survival rate in home aquariums. They are extremely difficult to acclimate and GREAT CARE should be taken. Once properly acclimated though, they should have a relatively long life.


Linkia Laevigata (blue linckia)
Sz: 12-16 inches
MTS: 90 gal
FF: Diet not totally understood, may eat algae, detritus, and meaty foods.
RC: totally reef safe
“Blue Linckia” comes in a variety of colors from aqua to almost purple. They are particularly difficult to acclimate, and if done properly they can live more than 2 years. One of our members has had one for over 3 years! Will accept bits of clam or shrimp if placed in their path. Good lighting is important to provide adequate algae for grazing.


Linckia multiform (spotted linckia)
Sz.: less than 6”
MTS: 90gal
FF: Same as Blue Linckia
RC: totally reef safe
The spotted linckia is difficult to acclimate but if done properly may be one of the most hardy seastars, living for many years. Despite their hardiness they are difficult to find in the aquarium trade. If you do find one snap it up (and call me, I want one) . Their name means “many pores” and vary greatly in color from grayish pink to orange-brown and are quite spotted.


Tamaria Stria (tamarisk, burgundy star, purple “linkia”
Sz: to 16” wild, 8” aquarium
MTS: 100+ gal
FF: omnivorous, eats algae, tiny inverts, and microorganisms.
RC: generally yes, may disturb clams, sponges small anemones and other small inverts.
Their color varies from burgundy to deep purple and are often falsely called Purple Linckia. The Tamarisk star is extremely difficult to keep. Must be very slowly acclimated over many hours. Requires a great deal of food and will likely not find enough to eat in the typical home aquarium. Meaty supplements or algae sheets placed in its path are necessary for survival. With proper acclimation and vigilant feeding, it may live more than a year in captivity.




Protoreaster Lincki (African sea star)
Protoreaster nodosus (Chocolate chip starfish)
Sz: Linki to 12”, nodosus to 5”
MTS: 100g or larger recommended
FF: omnivorous, greedy feeders on most anything, sponges in the wild
RC: Not suitable for Reef aquariums, good for fish only tanks
Their stiff bodies don’t allow them to navigate rockwork very well, so a large sandy bottom is necessary. These stars will eat a wide variety of foods but may starve if left to forage on their own. Place meaty foods and prepared sponge rations in their path. Will eat
sessile inverts as well. I have personally kept Chocolate Chip stars in fish only tanks as small as 55 gallons and they have lived for many years in spite of me. Slow acclimation applies to these species as well. Chocolate chips come in a variety of colors with tan or white bodies and either yellow, orange , red or brown markings with large “chips” on top from grey to dark brown. African stars have white or grey bodies with bright red spines and ridges.

Astropecten Sp. (Sand sifter star)
Sz: up to 12"
MTS: 100g recommended
FF: Sediment infauna
RC: Generally not suitable
Sand sifting stars are popular in the trade due to their sand sifting traits. They will bury themselves in the substrate thereby aerating it. While they're there they will systematically devour all living organisms until there is nothing left and then starve. A very large tank is required with a refugeum to sustain their food needs. They eat brittle stars, worms, snails, sea cucumbers, and smaller organisms such as copepods and amphipods.

[vdituri]

More great info man!
1 question on fromias. Would they need general sponges or would it be a specific type of sponge?

[framerguy]

Originally Posted by vdituri

More great info man!
1 question on fromias. Would they need general sponges or would it be a specific type of sponge?

My research didn't specify a certain sponge. Everything I found said they feed on sponges in the wild so it leads me to believe any sponge will do.

I wanted to add some info on choosing a good specimen once you choose the kind you want. Look for a sea star that is "plump". If the legs seem deflated or have any "flattened" spots, its on its way out and will be difficult if not impossible to save. Any decay at all or open wounds will have the same outcome so it's best to leave them where they are. When sea stars start to die they seem to dissentegrate rapidly. Their deaths are usually due to the hydro vessels and valves bursting because their system cannot accept changes in salinity and the pressure causes them to rupture. Once it starts, that's it, they're done. I wish you (and me) success in keeping stars and hope this helps!

[AQTCJAK]

That is a really cool article. I might have to experiment with the 8-10 hour on stars. My only thoough is I would have to figure out how to keep the main tank full as the water is removed & ensure the aclimation tank doesnt overflow.

My noramal acclimation is for 3 hour s or so using the drip method to duoble the water that the animals are in when I get them

[Frankie]

I found the linka stars are not as reef safe as you would think. They tend to climb and turn over stuff. If you want to keep one of these make sure all your corals are well attached to the rock.
I ended up getting a sand sifter star instead and find it to be a great seastar if you can provide for itss needs. Just like it says in the post above.
Awesome thread farmerguy! Good job.

[Boomer]

Nice post Framerguy

[CATALYST]

What's the general life expectancy of stars?

[framerguy]

Originally Posted by CATALYST

What's the general life expectancy of stars?

It's different for different stars. Fromias have terrible life expectancy, a year if your lucky. Linckias can live several years if acclimated properly, as mentioned, one member has had one for over three years. My last chocolate chip lived for more than five years. I'll try to check on others.

[tbittner]

Sand sifters eat brittles? NO WAY!!! uh oh...

I have two sand sifters in my 120. One of them actually lost a leg when it climbed up onto my Vor-Tech powerhead. It grew the leg back and I also now have three sand sifters. I also have two brittles. I haven't noticed any issues with them all in the same tank though. My fuge is swarming with pods though so maybe there is just enough food for them all.

Why do sand sifters come out and climb up to the top of the water and extend a leg or two out of the water. They do this once or twice a week. Weird. Then they climb back down the glass and sink back into the substrate.

[cheeks69]

Greg do you have a source for the info you posted ?
I've never read anything that indicates that Fromia sp. will eat sponges. I believe Ron Shimek and Anthony Calfo mention that no one really knows what they eat although there's some theories out there that they feed on bacteria/surface film on LR.

The info on acclimation is right on and if not done properly they'll develop bacterial infections and they will begin to disintegrate.