Need help on Closed Loop ideas for 180???

[BlueNWhite]

OK, my 180 project is in motion. I have removed all coraline on the 180 and cleaned out the 55g that will be used as a sump. I have many questions to come, but for now, I would like your help/tips on how to set the Closed Loop on my tank.

The 180 is 72x24x24 with overflows on each back corner. Currently I am thinking about having one hole drilled in the centre towards the bottom as the drain. The returns will go up the back and over the tank. I would like one return to go down the centre with a "T" intersecting two spray bars located just above the bottom of the tank to clear all ditritous (sp?) from under the rocks. If possible, I would like to put another set of spray bars parallel to the bottom one, but at mid/upper level to clear the ditritous on the rocks. Finally, using the manifold return that has about three sets of double loc-lines.

So my question is, how do-able is this Closed Loop set up? What would you recommend in changes, or a whole different set up?

I plan to eventually have a heavy bio-load with soft and LPS corals. I say now that I do not intend to have SPS, but I now know better than to say 'never'.

Thanks, and let me know what other information you need from me in order to help me on this project.

[gussy]

Why do you need to drill a hole since you have the overflows?

[Woodstock]

No clue about closed loops... but here is a to the top~

[mkpaulson]

check out my Chronicle where I did my closed loop system, I didn't do any drilling I was too afraid that would end up with a $700 hamster cage. see if that something you could look with.
mkpaulson 210 all-glass megaflow

[mkpaulson]

witfull put in one of the best spray bar system I had seen a while check his chronicle out at Witty's Monster 210 Experiment

unfortunately seems like he's missing a lot of pics, what's up with that dave?

[BlueNWhite]

Originally Posted by mkpaulson

check out my Chronicle where I did my closed loop system, I didn't do any drilling I was too afraid that would end up with a $700 hamster cage. see if that something you could look with.
mkpaulson 210 all-glass megaflow

Hello Mark

Thanks for the link to your 8 Motion set up. I didn't get a chance to see all the other things about your tank, but I did notice this regarding the 8 way motion set up: "to anyone thinking about installing one just make sure they're good at do-it-yourself, if you are plumbing challenged I wouldn't suggest this system." I've never done any plumbing before, so I don't know how I will be, but the cost is quite up there. I'll see what I can do with my closed loop plans, but thanks for sharing your information. I'll have to check it out in detail later.

[BlueNWhite]

Originally Posted by gussy

Why do you need to drill a hole since you have the overflows?

Hello Gussy.

The extra drilled holes are for the intake/drain of a Closed Loop set up. With a Closed Loop, the water remains within its 'loop' of plumbing and never enters into the sump. This kind of set up also does not require a back up to avoid flooding in the event of a power outage because all of the water remains in the loop. It's an alternative to having many power heads within the tank. Check it out.

[mkpaulson]

You really don't need to go with the ocean motion system, I was just showing you away that she could plumb the tank without drilling it it.

but if you're comfortable with drilling your tank Nikki drill her tank for a closed loop system check this one out.
NaH2O's Mini-Beast

[BlueNWhite]

Originally Posted by mkpaulson

You really don't need to go with the ocean motion system, I was just showing you away that she could plumb the tank without drilling it it.

but if you're comfortable with drilling your tank Nikki drill her tank for a closed loop system check this one out.
NaH2O's Mini-Beast

Hello Mark.

Thanks for the link to Nikki's set up. That is what you call mega drilling. I would like to do that, but alternatively, I would only drill one or two holes for the intake and use an over the top for the returns. However, I like how her returns are positioned at the bottom, but that would be hard to do on an over the top set up because most of the flow would be through those outlets that are closest to the tube going into the tank before it is 'T'd off.

Any suggestions to do that kind of effect at the bottom of the tank without using a spraybar. I am being told by many not use spraybars because they often get clogged up.

Thanks.

[forestal]

rather than drilling holes for a closed loop, consider using a manifold for the return from the sump:
i think it is much simpler
http://www.reefnut.com/manifold.htm

[BlueNWhite]

Originally Posted by forestal

rather than drilling holes for a closed loop, consider using a manifold for the return from the sump:
i think it is much simpler
http://www.reefnut.com/manifold.htm

Hello forestal.

Thanks for the link. Have you ever seen a manifold that has tubes that go down to the bottom of the back of the tank to keep detritus from settling on the bottom of the rocks?

[forestal]

it would still be possible using the manifold to do the same thing...one advantage is not worrying about back flow with power failure or other disaster (they happen) into a pump that ends up leaking.

but with the manifold, (or set up 2 pumps in the sump one for top, one for nozzles directed downward...i am certainly no expert, my reef looks very low tech and my manifold looks like a tornado hit a pile of pvc cement and piping, but it works , i do want the neat black nozzle thingies (cant think of name) people use to better direct the flow, mine is just coming out of 1/2" pvc

[mojoreef]

Blue and white I did this plan for someone else but it sounds close to what you might be looking for
Ok Skipper a quick plan for the glass tank over the top. You would have to drill an input hole for the closed loop pump, I didnt draw it in but place it using the rules were talked about. Basically the output of the pump would be 1 1/2 inch, take this pipe all the way to the top of the tank and then elbow over it. From here you would go into a manifold as we have draw up previously. I would suggest getting apeice of acrylic that would span between the overflows and sit on top of the tank. That way you can drill through it and mount it like you want. So the manifold would be a series of inline tee's with 90 elbows on the end. They would get reduced at the interface of the acrylic plate down to 3/4. I have drawn in 3 pipes that would go from the manifold down to about 6 inch off the bottom. on the end of them install an eductor to each end
eductor

This will greatly increase the waterflow coming out of these tubes. Pointing then straight down will allow the water flow to hit the bottom and spread from thier, as mentioned prior a great way to sweep the bottom. The final 2 out puts would come through the acrylic plate and then be attached to a Y fitting with lockline on each this should give you enough out puts to cover the tank.
Overall concept here is heavy bottom flow to sweep the waste to the front of the tank and then up the front wall, from here it would be mixed into the mid flow (2 outputs) and put further into play and up the water column, finally to the sump return flow which would direct the detritus and flow to the overflows.
front to back view

and then a quick top down view


Mike

[mojoreef]

The acrylic plate is not to hide the pipes. It is thier so you can drill through it and mount the manifold to it. So basically you would have the tee pointing down, inside the tee would bee a 1 1/2 male slip by 3/4 inch threaded female bushing. you would screw in a closed nipple (shown before). Now you take the manifold and mark where the closed nipple would hit the acrylic. Drill holes in this plate so that the nipples slide through. On the underside of the plate, on the two outputs that stay high you would screw on a threaded 3/4 inch coupling. That will hold the plate to the manifold tight. From thier you screw in a locline Y and then two outputs of locline to what you want. On the pipes that go all the way down you do the same thing but use a 3/4 coupling that is threaded on one side and slip on the other. From thier just slide in the pipe that goes to the bottom (I would glue it) at the end of these pipes put the same slip by thread coupling. Slip over the pipe and then screw in the eductors. If you put a 1 1/2 union just prior to the manifold it will allow you to remove the whole manifold system if you desire down the road.

For the inputs go ahead on the 2 inputs, just make sure they are where you can get to them and away from the corners/edges.

As per flow from the sump go back to the original posts and then place them high in the water colum so they take care of breaking your surface tension and direct detritus to the overflows.


Mike

[Boomer]