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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Reef Lobster ![]() | Top-off ideas in tight spaces? My previous top-off/kalk addition on the old tank consisted of a 10-15 gallon rubbermaid bin with 1/2" OD tubing running from the bin to a float valve on my sump. Unfortunately, this just isn't going to work in the kitchen. What the heck do you folks do with your tanks in the livingroom/kitchen/etc...? Currently I have just been adding RO/DI water twice a day (I have an insane evap rate (2-3 gallons a day on a 50) because of the fans I need to keep the temp. balanced) and dripping kalk out of a modified milk jug. However, I need something more automated, especially for trips of 2-3 days. What do you guys use? I suppose I can use a solenoid-type rig that pumps water from a bucket into the sump, but I really don't know where I could "hide" the bucket so that it is out of site. Interested in any and all suggestions, or perhaps just what you do to account for evap... Thanks Scott T.
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Reef Lobster | What you can do is to obtain a solenoid valve for use in regular plumbing. You can set this valve up so that it controls the input to your RO/DI unit. Set up your RO/DI unit so the output goes to your sump or kalk reactor. Then use a float switch in your sump to control the solenoid valve on the RO/DI unit. When plumbed this way, you don't need a bucket anyplace at all, and the output from the RO/DI is about the speed you want to add water lost to evaporation. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Reef Lobster ![]() | A question out of ignorance... A solenoid valve works through electricity right? In other words, I would have some sort of float in the sump that would trigger the solenoid to turn on via electricity? It might be feasible, although I might do some damage to the cabnitry in the kitchen. A question to those with a knack for carpentry, how easy would it be to patch up a 1/2" hole in wooden cabinents. I could probably rig it so that it is not noticable, but just in case... TIA Take er easy Scott T.
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| Reef Lobster | Quote:
If you knew how much water you lost, you could try using a timer on the solenoid valve, but that tends to get a little out of sync, since the exact amunt of water lost can vary. Depending upon where your tank is, you might be able to mount your RO/DI unit near the tank. You would have to plumb a supply and drain pipe to the area. Also, it may be possible to mount the RO/DI unit in the basement, rather than kitchen. If you do have to drill kitchen cabnets, try to come through a bottom corner, or a place where it can be covered with moulding. That way you can completly cover the hole up. Also, make any hold just large enough to get the wire or tube through them, no larger. One last thought here, water comming out of an RO/DI unit is at almost water line preasure, so you can have a very long run of pipe or tubeing to get to the sump. | |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Totally back ![]() | Scott, I'm the last person to give advice on making a display attractive, after living by myself for the last few years I haven't really given a dern about what my setup looks like as long as the insides look ok, but I'm moving also with some roomates, so I'm doing a new stand and everything so my setup looks good and the new roomies can't complain ![]() Anyhow. I used a top off setup from www.autotopoff.com They offer several setups with float switches and eitehr a pump or solenoid if you want to use an RO/DI. My water supply is two rooms away so that didn't work for me, I just stuck a bucket between the stand and wall and use the small pump to dose kalk. Works great for me for now. I also evaporate about 2-3 gallons a day, it is starting to show on my air vents also, rust and mold starting to show up, sure the landlord will love that when I move out ![]() I like the solenoid idea, I'm hoping it will be feasible at my new place.
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