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| General Reef Aquarium Discussion Post all your general reefkeeping questions here. |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Please help. Nothing I've tried to rid my tank of ich has worked. I've tried garlic, ginger, selcon and nothing is working. This morning I notice that my clowns now have it as well as at least one of my chromis. The hippo is nowhere to be found. Quarentine is simply out of the question. I'm thinking of resorting to medicating the tank. My feeling right now is that if I medicate the tank and loose my snails, hermits, and shrimp, then so be it. Saving the fish is my main concern. Can someone recommend a treatment. How is Rid-Ich? Please help!
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Reef Lobster | NS . . . . . . have you tried raising the PH via Kalk dripping. I've gone on and on about this in every thread you have raised. Have you started this yet. ICH hates high PH (8.4 to 8.6) and a high stable PH will induce less stress on your fish. You could also invest in a UV filter which is how I recently beat ich although it only kills the parasites when they fall off the fish Brucey
__________________ 160UK Gallon. (192US Gallon). 400Lbs LR. Aquamedic Turboflotor 5000 Shorty skimmer. Arcadia 3Series pendant (3x250W 14,000'K MH & 2x58W 60" actinic) (DIY cooling fan). Tunze 7095 Multicontroller & 2xTunze 6100 Streams. Redsea 100 Aquazone Plus ozonizer and redox computer. Aquamedic Ocean Runner 6500 return. TMC Vectron 30W UV sterilizer. Aquamedic Aquaniveau auto top up system through Deltec 500 kalk stirrer. PurityOnTap RO/DI. Deltec FR509 (ROWAPhos). Aquamedic PH computer controlling KNOP HD Calcium Reactor. Setup Nov 2002 See my tank here http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...&threadid=4486 |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Brucey, I simply can not raise the pH. I have not tried kalk. Don't your water params need to be stable before adding kalk? My Ca is about 300 Alk is about 12 dKH, and Mg is around 1170.
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| Reef Lobster | Quote:
Brucey PS, Please take a look at my tank. I add NOTHING at all to the water, no additives at all except to drip kalk. HTH mate
__________________ 160UK Gallon. (192US Gallon). 400Lbs LR. Aquamedic Turboflotor 5000 Shorty skimmer. Arcadia 3Series pendant (3x250W 14,000'K MH & 2x58W 60" actinic) (DIY cooling fan). Tunze 7095 Multicontroller & 2xTunze 6100 Streams. Redsea 100 Aquazone Plus ozonizer and redox computer. Aquamedic Ocean Runner 6500 return. TMC Vectron 30W UV sterilizer. Aquamedic Aquaniveau auto top up system through Deltec 500 kalk stirrer. PurityOnTap RO/DI. Deltec FR509 (ROWAPhos). Aquamedic PH computer controlling KNOP HD Calcium Reactor. Setup Nov 2002 See my tank here http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...&threadid=4486 | |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Brucey: I've spent so much money so far on this aquarium. I'm going broke. I bought a diatom filter hoping that will filter out the parasite. Granted I have only used it once. I am willing to try kalk I guess. What I meant about the water params. was that I thought they need to be stable first and Kalk will keep them there. You seem to be saying that adding kalk now will raise my Ca, lower my Alk and raise my pH. Is that true?
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| The Wand Geek was here. ;) ![]() | Keep the diatom running constantly.. at least one month. Clean it twice a week. Continue adding garlic to the fish food. Feed high quality food. Drip kalk (as mentioned above), and do water changes twice weekly. Vacuum the substrate too. GL~
__________________ ~Doni Marie~ GOT ICH??? My Anemone & Picasso Tank ~ 120 Reef Chronicle ~ Breeding Picasso Clownfish~ Massive 300 gal growout~ Picasso & Snowcasso for sale~ "Energy and persistence conquer all things." Benjamin Franklin __________________________________________________ ______________________________________________ |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Torch coral | Brucey, Can you explain (one more time) how to go about mixing and adding kalk. I was going to try this DIY Kalk doser: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/skip/agu/kalkdripper.htm
__________________ Equipment 120g Reef, (2) 250W XM 20K MH, (2) 110W T12 VHO Super Actinic, MRC MR2 Beckett Skimmer, 55g Sump, Iwaki Return Pump Setup August 2006 |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Reef Lobster | NS . . . . I explained it one of your other threads. I'll find it for you Brucey PS . . . . Kalk is inexpensive and costs less than the loss of one fish if you drip it from a bucket so it need not cost much money at all. HTH
__________________ 160UK Gallon. (192US Gallon). 400Lbs LR. Aquamedic Turboflotor 5000 Shorty skimmer. Arcadia 3Series pendant (3x250W 14,000'K MH & 2x58W 60" actinic) (DIY cooling fan). Tunze 7095 Multicontroller & 2xTunze 6100 Streams. Redsea 100 Aquazone Plus ozonizer and redox computer. Aquamedic Ocean Runner 6500 return. TMC Vectron 30W UV sterilizer. Aquamedic Aquaniveau auto top up system through Deltec 500 kalk stirrer. PurityOnTap RO/DI. Deltec FR509 (ROWAPhos). Aquamedic PH computer controlling KNOP HD Calcium Reactor. Setup Nov 2002 See my tank here http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...&threadid=4486 |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Reef Lobster | NS . . . . It's all in this thread started by you called "Adding Kalk". Wasn't too hard to find. Brucey Adding Kalk
__________________ 160UK Gallon. (192US Gallon). 400Lbs LR. Aquamedic Turboflotor 5000 Shorty skimmer. Arcadia 3Series pendant (3x250W 14,000'K MH & 2x58W 60" actinic) (DIY cooling fan). Tunze 7095 Multicontroller & 2xTunze 6100 Streams. Redsea 100 Aquazone Plus ozonizer and redox computer. Aquamedic Ocean Runner 6500 return. TMC Vectron 30W UV sterilizer. Aquamedic Aquaniveau auto top up system through Deltec 500 kalk stirrer. PurityOnTap RO/DI. Deltec FR509 (ROWAPhos). Aquamedic PH computer controlling KNOP HD Calcium Reactor. Setup Nov 2002 See my tank here http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...&threadid=4486 |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Reef Shark ![]() | You're thrashing all around and totally ignoring the best solution to the problem...Quarantine & hsopital tank. Not convenient, not, expensive, maybe. As hunter said, you can use a rubbermaid container for a QT, all you need is a heater, airpump and sponge filter to run one successfully, although I prefer a hang-on filter like an AquaClear or biowheel type to the sponge. Then, you can treat with medications that will actually work, instead of just "flavoring" the water. Sorry to say, but in my experience, (I've been at this almost 30 yrs.) NONE of the reef safe ich medications are very effective. Quarantine tanks and copper are a time proven way to fight the parasite. THEN, you quarantine EVERY fish for 4 to 6 weeks, (preferably 6) before you put them in your tank... That is the best and most effective way. Otherwise, you will always have problems...
__________________ Intelligence is not knowing all the answers, but knowing where and how to find them! www.google.com |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| WOLVERINE~ ![]() | yup, ditto and what he said!
__________________ ~Welcome to my nightmare~ I think you're gonna like it I think you're gonna feel you belong. A walk to vacation, A necessary sedation, You wanna feel at home cause' you belong. *Disclaimer* i say this as my best advice to a beginner. do not,,,and i repeat,,,,,DO NOT look at my tank as an example....i have a well practised eye, decades of experience, and a trunkload of failures to allow me to force the issue and get away with things most cannot~ |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Reef Lobster | One thing to keep in mind is that ich is not nearly as serious as you might think. I had ich pretty bad in my tank once, and I just let nature take it's course. Ich is mainly brought on by stress, and the more you fiddle with things, the more stressed the fish get, compounding the problem. My neon and red-head goby had ich so bad they looked fuzzy, yet they both are still with me... in fact I didn't lose a single fish just by letting things go away naturally. Your best bet is to simply keep them well-fed and as stress-free as possible. Like Brucey said, you can also try a higher than normal pH regimen and that will help as well. Ich hasn't shown up again on my fish in over a year... Mainly, just take a deep breath and realize that you're not dealing with that serious of a problem... not enough of a problem to get overly stressed about anyway... ![]() HTH. P.S. You might also try using the 'size' tags in your sig... you got a pretty long one there... ![]()
__________________ -David ![]() addict's tank specs: Coming soon! |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Scopas Tang | Do all the above, I have a UV on the tank running 24/7 no problems I used it orginally to rid the tank of HA slow flow is the key to UVs. Feed wit high quality food. stable pH and temp. Keep the pests at bay. I'd set up a UV, start a QT tank with existing tank water treat the QT with copper put the fish in there for 6-8 weeks keep nothing living in the tank let it run fallow for the 6-8 weeks (dont treat the display with copper what ever you do) the ich will die off with no hosts. The ich be sucked through the UV and die and your problems should be over. BTW I run my UV at a 1/4 of the reccomended rate. Longer the parasite has in the UV chamber the more chances it will explode and perish. HTH C
__________________ 120 gallon, 100 gallon sump, GEO Calcium Reactor, Aqua C EV-400 Skimmer, 300 pounds of LR, Bare Bottom, 2 Tetra UV2 Sterilizers, 2 Tunze 6080 streams, 2 - 400 watt DE Metal Halides |
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