Replacing Glass on an Aquarium

[ScottT1980]

Ok, I have a new project coming up (my prop tank) which means I will have a ton of new questions to pose...

I have a 30L that I want to somehow salvage. It was once a sump, but because the baffling was too tight, it cracked one of the glass panels. Because I like projects and unfortunately, money is a little tight, I really would like to salvage the tank. How difficult do you think it would be to remove the broken glass panel while still maintaining the integrity of the tank? Is it even worth my time or should I just go out and buy a new aquarium? Because I have never really even purchased glass, I wouldn't even know what type of price to expect for a 36" X 16-17" piece of glass.

If it is doable, has anyone tried it and if so, I would love to hear some tips.

Thanks
Scott T.

[ScottT1980]

Well, I suppose I answered my own question as I now have a 3-sided 30 gallon aquarium. I did manage to crack the top bracing in the process, but i think that is easily repairable. If anyone tried this, I suggest using gloves. A piece of glass managed to slice right through the tips of one of my fingers...

Now it is just a matter of finding a new piece of glass. Anyone know if there is a particular type of glass I need?

Thanks
Scott T.

[strat]

i once installed a top brace in a tank, twas easy. i placed books underneath to hold at the right height and allowed a good 1/8th inch on each side for lots of silicone. dont know if thats the right way but it worked like a charm. hth

strat

[mattie]

hey scott bring a salvaged piece of glass or the tank to burke bro's on hillsbourogh they may have and make exactly what ya want

[ScottT1980]

Thanks Matt! I just posted a message on NCFrag asking that very question...

[ScottT1980]

For anyone interested, the tank alluded to in this thread is now completely fixed and fully functional. One of the easier DIY projects I have done.

I have the halides, I have the tank, now all I need is the electrician and some plumbing and I will have a prop tank soon enough.

[Hooked]

Glad you got your problem taken care of. Can you share with us how your did it? I'm especially interested in how much of the silicone you ended up removing and replacing in the tank.


TIA

[ScottT1980]

I wish I had an operational digi, but at the moment, mine is out for repairs.

The entire front pane was cracked. I learned the hard way, wear gloves. I cut up my hands a couple of times before I decided gloves were a neccesity.

I got a small piece of wood and a rubber mallet and gently hit the top brace to loosen up the silicon. Unfortunately, I ended up cracking the top brace on the tank trying to remove it from the glass (I used too much arm and not enough patience). I got the top brace off, then succesfully removed the bottom brace using the same technique. I then took a razor blade and carefully separated the cracked pane from the 3 intact panes. The process took about 30 minutes to an hour as I was very careful not to crack any of the intact glass.

I then had a piece of 3/8" glass cut at a glass shop ($25) that fit like a glove. I siliconed the absolute snot out of everything. I first put the tank down and placed the new frame on top. I didn't really have to use clamps or apply any sort of pressure to the glass. The silicon seemed to make a really nice seal (BTW, I made sure to remove as much of the old silicon as possible). I then siliconed the bottom brace in, again, using a very heavy amount of silicone, had a top brace ordered, and put that on the same way. I ended up going through about 2+ industrial tubes of silicone for the whole project. A bit of an overkill and not exactly the most aesthetically pleasing looking edges but this is only for a prop tank. I did a 24 hour water test, no leaks, time to rock and roll...

As for the amount removed, well, as mentioned, I just removed all I could from the edges that would be glued. This was no easy task, even with a razor because the glass was not "smooth" on the edges.

HTH

Take er easy
Scott T.

Edit: In all, I probably spent $40 but it would have been $30 had I not cracked the brace. IMO, it was much better to do this than to get a new 30 long and get it drilled (probably around $50-60).

[mps9506]

Scott,
I had no idea you were going to start a prop tank...
What type of lighting is going to be over this, or do you already have a thread alluding to this?
Glad you go that tank fixed btw.
Did you also take into account the price of bandaids on your hand from not wearing gloves the first time through
Mike

[mattie]

yea scott!!!
i am glad you finished the 30g project and are ready for the next step the lights....

[mps9506]

I have a spare 'saki ballast for 6500k lights if you want it scott.
But looks like you are already set on the lights?
Mike

[ScottT1980]

Yeah, the prop tank almost happened by chance. J.R. in Charlotte was selling two 175 halides ballasts, reflectors, bulbs, etc... and I jumped on it (only $125!!!). I was thinking about buying a new tank but then I started to think that perhaps repairing the tank was possible.

It still might be a month or so to save up for the electrical work required to handle another 350W in my "fish room." I might just throw both 175s on the 30 and call it a day or I might just use one and put the other on my fuge and have a macro/xenia fuge. I am not sure yet but am excited. The lights on my prop tank will be better than my show tank...

Oh, thanks for the offer as well and Matt, definitely looking foward to having some good frags available.

Take er easy
Scott T.

[mps9506]

Sounds cool.
I bought my first halide setup from JR as well. Seems like he is always selling stuff at the right time
Mike