Phosphate filter

[arizonagrace]

My cousin wants me to try this in my 24 aquapod, but I would like opinions before trying something like this:

Phosphate Filter for Red Hair Algae 2 Pack Media NIB - eBay (item 310091032624 end time Oct-17-08 07:29:05 PDT)

Thanks.

[Woodstock]

I've never used it but by the LOOKS of it, it appears to be a ferric oxide pad and will probably work very well.
The price seems high though.
Check out google searches: tropical science phosphate filter - Google Search

[cbrownfish]

For my nano, I simply use GFO in a mesh bag and lay it on top of the sponge in the first compartment. This way much of the water travel through it. I have had decent luck with Poly Filter Pads in the nano as well. The problem with the pads is that the collect detritus and get clogged up fairly quickly.

[arizonagrace]

I really need to do something, as all my attempts at getting rid of my red slime algae and bringing my phophate level from .2 have failed. At least it is down that much. Was up at .5 Still, I need to get rid of this algea. It has started to get little bubbles on it, and I don't know if it is bubble algea. It is more clear then green.

I am thinking of taking the rocks OUT of the tank and cleaning all the slime off instead of trying to syphon it out like I did last time.

[cbrownfish]

Pulling rocks can stir up nastiness from underneath. Double edged sword IMO. Start running some GFO or other PO4 binding media/filter.

[arizonagrace]

I already have Phosban in a media bag running in the back. Hasn't helped at all.

[sambrinar]

Originally Posted by arizonagrace

I already have Phosban in a media bag running in the back. Hasn't helped at all.

I believe on the instructions on the phosban say you can put up to like 15x the recommended amount for a limited amount of time to get ahead of the algae....

[SuperClam]

How about a phosphate reactor. They're relatively inexpensive. I tried PO4 media in a mesh bag just laying in the filter. The problem with that is, the water will always find the path of least resistance. Thus it can channel more flow around the mesh bag. In a reactor the water is forced through the media. I have much better success with a reactor than a pad or media bag. Also, you need to know which media your using. Some media is only good for a set amount of time and will actually begin to leach the phosphate back into your system. If you have high silicates, some media will exhausts its absorption on the silicates, thus not allowing surface absorption area for the PO4.

[cbrownfish]

Super clam is right about the reactor being much more effective. The water needs to flow through the media to take full advantage of the product. Do you simply have it hanging in the back or does the water run through it?

How often are you changing out your GFO? If your tank has heavy nutrients, I would recommend changing out the GFO weekly. Rinse it in RO/DI between changes to clean off bacteria and slime that can minimize it's effectiveness. Remember, the safest way to decrease nurients is SLOOOOOWLY. Going to fast can strip your tank of all nutrients and cause a crash. Sure, you can get rid of algae quickly but then if you crash certain algae populations then you can cause additional issues (dying algae rots and creates more nutrients, dying algae releases toxins, etc).

Patience! Verify that your source water/salt is nutrient free, increase water changes to small frequent changes 2-3X per week, use a turkey baster on the rockwork to keep decaying organics cleaned up, siphon out the Cyano and lightly agitate the sand surface, etc. It can take months to eliminate nuisance algae.

[arizonagrace]

My cousin ordered this and I got it in the mail today. I was a bit disappointed, as he paid quite a bit for it. You have to take one of the filter pads and put it in the tank, dispose of it 24 hours later, and add the 2nd one. Then after 48 hours, remove the 2nd and dispose. This is more of a "quick" fix for the tank, and won't help in the long run. And you have to keep it tightly sealed in a bag.

The red slime algea additive appears to be the same thing you can buy in any store. It is a powder and you add it to your tank 1 level scoop to 10 gallons and again in 5 days if no apparent reduction.

Don't know if it is works or not as I am hesitant to try it. When he called the company, they said you can cut the filter pads to any size so you get more uses out of them. I still don't see where this is worth the $ unless you have a serious problem of phosphates you need to get rid of quickly.

[surfzone]

We get that product from Tropic Science in from time to time at the LFS I work in. They are a good quick fix but if you don't know where your PO4s are coming from then you will end up with the same story. Good husbandry comes into play with this. PO4 are rampent in the tap water here. so the only thing that goes into my tank is RO water. are you feeding too much? this can also cause the issue. right now i'm using the Brightwell PhosphatR. I have used their freshwater products with great success in my plant tank. so I guess i'll be making a thread on that. Any Who i know that my PO4 is from over feeding my tank so a reduction of feeding and something to pull out the PO4 is the proper cores of action.

Find the source and nix it along with a good phosphate remover. I know Caribsea makes a good one and PhosGuard by Seachem is another good one.

[rmlevasseur]

Chaeto and ferric oxide work the best. I don't think that white ceramic-type stuff works a bit.

Beware pulling out too much phosphate too fast. I would not even dream of using 15x the recommended ferric oxide at once!!!! Take it out slowly and safely.

[ZAPCOnj]

the GF's 60 gal started to have a problem with the Red slime. I used a turkey baster and sucked out most of it. On the rock that were deeply covered i removed and scrubbed and rinsed a number of times (all in salt water) then replaced in the display.

i also added the two little fishies phosban reactor and 4 tablespoons of phosban (it's my understanding that i could have used more but i wanted to take things step by step and not jump the gun). it's been running in the 60 gal for over a week now and there has been little to no new growth of the red slime. The only thing i had to do yesterday was suck out some slime residue on the sand bed. but there was nearly NO new growth on any of the rocks. prior to this process i had Major new growth every other day after using the turkey baster to suck the stuff out. SOOOO glad the stuff is "under control" now.

I also had a similar problem but worse in my biocube 29. I removed, scrubbed, rinsed and sucked out the red stuff for weeks before i decided to run a phosban reactor. i had similar positive results before i moved over to my new tank.

i got the reactor for $45 and a bottle of phosban for $20ish. i connected it to the return line back to the tank(in the gf's tank) and adjusted the flow via the ball valve on the reactor.

not sure if this info will help you but i feel your pain!

by the way. i tried a similar product to what you linked in. it didn't work at all.

[arizonagrace]

Having an aquapod is wonderful, but sure does restrict what can be done in it. I am hoping to get a reactor soon. I tested the water I get from my lfs, and it starts out with a tiny bit of phosphate, so I don't think I will ever have a 0 phosphate in my tank. Even when I bought bottled water, I was getting a reading on that, about the same as the lfs water.

I cut back feeding and rinse everything, and hope it will clear up soon. I will be patient though, as I don't want to unsettle my tank.

[ZAPCOnj]

i've tested the water in both of our tanks and always get a 0 reading on the phos. there is a good chance that the Cyano is using up the phosphate before it' can really register in the tests... at least that is what i was told...

i'm just happy that the reactor is doing it's job and the Cyano (red slime) is under control.