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Old 06-05-2008, 05:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
WatchinFish
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timeing with lights

ok so my light comes friday. it is a combination of metal halides, t5, and blue and white moon LED's. how should i set up my timers???
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135 gallon glass tank with center overflow
60 gallon DIY glass sump
Current USA Outer Orbit Fixture, 3x250W HQI Metal Halide & 8X39W T5s, 72 inch
1200 gph return pump
G3 skimmer
2-300w submersible heaters
180 pounds of liverock
120 pounds of livesand

Tank still in progress.

HAPPY REEFING

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http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ming-true.html


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Old 06-05-2008, 05:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
tippMANn98
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Re: timeing with lights

try to have a sunrise/sunset effect, blues(t5s on first) then the halides an hour or so after, combo of both (for midday sun) and then sunset, halides off, then only blues for an hour or so, off with the blues and out comes the moon!

my personal is:
blue-on at 10am, whites+blues on @12pm to 8pm, then blues off at 10pm, the moon is out all night.
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Old 06-05-2008, 05:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
BigAl07
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Re: timeing with lights

Like he said


Mine are as follows

Moon/LEDS on 24/7

T5's on at 10am
MH's on at 11am
(11am - 10pm FULL light with all on)
MH's OFF at 10pm
T5's OFF at 11pm

Fuge light is set to run with schedule of T5's
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~

Live Rock Rubble will do the SAME thing as Bio-Balls and is NOT a suitable replacement for BIO-BALLS in a Reef System! It's ALL gotta go!!

Nitrate (NO3) reduction is directly proportional to percentage of Water Change.
Allen's home-made formula...currentNO3-((%WC*.01)currentNO3)=finalNO3 (thanks Luukosian)
This means if you change 50% of your total water volume (That's EVERYTHING) you'll get a net reduction of (NO3) somewhere around 50%.

Ask me about how to increase your REEF budget without going without FOOD!!

Big Al's 10g
Julie's (BigAl's Gal) 6g NanoCube Gone but not forgotten
BigAl's Slow 90g Tank Chronicle
Allens OFFICE 12g Nano-Reef
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Old 06-05-2008, 06:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
WatchinFish
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Re: timeing with lights

like how you guys think.lol ima do it that exact way.
__________________
135 gallon glass tank with center overflow
60 gallon DIY glass sump
Current USA Outer Orbit Fixture, 3x250W HQI Metal Halide & 8X39W T5s, 72 inch
1200 gph return pump
G3 skimmer
2-300w submersible heaters
180 pounds of liverock
120 pounds of livesand

Tank still in progress.

HAPPY REEFING

check out my reef chronicles
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ming-true.html


~WatchinFish~
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Old 06-05-2008, 06:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
BEELZEBOB
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Re: timeing with lights

that avatar is priceless.
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
burning2nd
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Re: timeing with lights

i never liked the just blue atinc's.... altho thats the trend..

i did just white 10k's the blue 14's but your geting the outter orbit... so its gonna be

blues on for about an hour then halides 8 hours or so... then another hour or blue's....

the leds... you could do another hour in both directions... or just On all the time...

i run my leds like the moon... when i see a full moon i leave it on all the time for a week or so..
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
Origami2547
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Re: timeing with lights

Your signature seems to indicate that you're still just setting up your system. If not and if you have corals in your tank, if you're upgrading to more light, then you're going to want to ease into the new light schedule to give the organisms in your tank time to acclimate. Acclimation could take a week or ten days and should be done either by starting the light further above the tank and gradually lowering it, or reducing the photoperiod and then gradually lengthening it to your target cycle.
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
tippMANn98
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Re: timeing with lights

i read starting the light higher than normal posistion is NOT a good way to acclimate, I am in that process now, i went with regular screening material double thick, actually just took one layer off, they wanted more!

but he is just getting his light, im pretty sure there is nothing live but the rock and sand, correct?
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
BigAl07
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Re: timeing with lights

Even with increased height from water (which many do use as acclimation) and reduced photo-period you're still running the risk of "shocking" the corals. It's a matter of the intensity of the light over an area of the corals surface. If you shocked corals too much they will react (a natural mechanism) by possibly trying to regulate their photosynthetic "zooxanthellae" in a extreme manner and expel the "zooxanthellae" totally. Odds are if this happens (bleaching can be because of this) they probably wont survive and if they do they wont ever obtain the original color and form. I only use the "cover & remove" method for light acclimation and it's worked wonders thus far.

Luckily here we're not dealing with any corals to shock
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~

Live Rock Rubble will do the SAME thing as Bio-Balls and is NOT a suitable replacement for BIO-BALLS in a Reef System! It's ALL gotta go!!

Nitrate (NO3) reduction is directly proportional to percentage of Water Change.
Allen's home-made formula...currentNO3-((%WC*.01)currentNO3)=finalNO3 (thanks Luukosian)
This means if you change 50% of your total water volume (That's EVERYTHING) you'll get a net reduction of (NO3) somewhere around 50%.

Ask me about how to increase your REEF budget without going without FOOD!!

Big Al's 10g
Julie's (BigAl's Gal) 6g NanoCube Gone but not forgotten
BigAl's Slow 90g Tank Chronicle
Allens OFFICE 12g Nano-Reef
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