coral placement reference

[jimeluiz]

When planning our tank we used a compatability chart to help us learn which fish could share the tankwith each other. Also, some reference books alerted us to what inverts or fish will munch on corals, etc. - what is not 'reef safe'.

But where can I look to learn more about coral compatability and placement concerns? Borneman's book offers an excellent rundown of various competition strategies employed by corals, but no specifics on which coral is any nastier than the next, or where problems may occur if certain species are in close proximity.

To date we have arranged our 'coral garden' based on asthetics, lighting and water flow considerations (lighting and flow needs ARE described in Borneman's book for each species.) Beyond that our placement strategy is mostly just to provide some space between corals, with some room to grow.

Others here speak with an apparent awareness of compatibility issues. How/where can I learn more about the chemical warfare underway in our tank and how we might take that into consideration when deciding on coral placement in the tank?

[stellamn]

I've never been able to find a reference like the one you are speaking of....

To combat the coral warfare, I run carbon on an almost continuous basis. This seems to help....with a fully mixed reef, there is no overt signs of chemical warfare...

Jodi

[Crakeur]

the best book I know of for coral placement and care is Sprung's book.

it uses a scale of 1-10 for the following items:

lighting
water flow
aggressiveness
hardiness (is that even a word?)

there is also a small diagram for each coral and it shows the best places for placement.

[hunterd_67]

Cool, TY for the info..been looking for something like that, sometime down the road i wanna get a bubble coral and a couple of other meanie's...

[jimeluiz]

Thanks Crakeur. Another book for the collection.

[tankgirl]

Hi Jime!
Buncha info coming. I didn't find Sprung's book that usefull, it's too general and no real info on aggressiveness.
Here's some info from an old thread
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Here is one of the lists I have

________ Relative Aggressiveness of Commonly Kept Reef Invertebrates

MOST AGGRESSIVE...

1)_____ Elegance Coral_ (Catalaphyllia jardinei, "Tooth coral")
2)_____ Hammer Coral___ (Euphyllia ancora, E. fimbriata, "Torch coral")
3)_____ Other Euphyllia (E. glabrescens, E. cristala., "Frog's spawn coral")
4)_____ Bubble Coral___ (Plerogyra sinuosa)
5)_____ Grape Coral____ (Physosyra lichensteini, "Small bubble coral")
6)_____ Mushroom Coral_ (Fungia actinoformis)___
7)_____ Flower Pot Coral (Goniopora sp.)
~)_____ Telia Anemonies (Telia sp, "Strawberry anemonies; Colony anemonies")
________
8)_____ Open Brain Coral (Trachyphyllia geofroyi)
9)_____ Cup Coral______ (Taxbinaria peltata)
10)____ Moon Coral_____ (Galaxea fascicalaris)
11)____ Closed Brain Coral (Favia spead brain coral")
12)____ Star Polyps____ (Clavalaria sp.)
13)____ Leather Coral__ (Sarccphyton sp)
14)____ Tree Coral_____ (Sinalaris spFire coral")
15)____ Gorgoniana_____ (Gorgonacea sp.)________
16)____ Waving Hand____ (Anthelia sp.)
17)____ Xenia__________ (Xenia sp.)
18)____ Giant Mushrooms (Rhodactius sp., "Elephant ear coral")
~)_____ Sea Mat Anemonies (Zooanthus sp., "Sea mat rock")
~)_____ Ricordia Anemonies (Ricordia sp. "Sea mat rock")
19)____ Mushroom Anemonies (inodiscus sp., "Mushroom polyps")

...LEAST AGGRESSIVE

__________________
Boomer
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This is one of my favorite aspects of reefkeeping: the animal interaction. I have allowed(and the crabs helped too) almost every combo of corals I have to touch each other over the years and I probably have a hundred different kinds to play with. First thing in the a m I check to see if anything is laying on a Hydno colony, then I check all the Acros to make sure none of them are touching. I don't really look too hard in the softie tanks for that as any touching usually isn't dangerous.

Boomer's list has too many loopholes because it isn't that cut and dried, but I definitely agree with the general trend LPS-SPS-softies . ie. One single Ricordia burned the whole side off my Galaxia colony with the efficiency of a Hydnophora, yet it can be piled in with zoos, shrooms and softes no problem.

General rule of thumb: Do not let any unrelated stoneys touch. They will burn each other with few exceptions. Many different Acros burn each other but some don't (like my gemmifera and humilis are kind of growing together but the slimer(youngei) would fight with either because it isn't closely enough related.
You can pile up the Euphyllias (Hammer, Torch, Frogspawn). Elegance might as well be a Condy on a rock. That packs nematocysts like an anemone yet shrooms can easily kill it.

Certain corals,generally the common LPS, but others like Galaxia and brains and even stuff like Echinopora put out long sweeper tentacles to do remote burning. You have to learn your specific corals' reaches and space them accordingly. Acros can put out long thin mesenterial filaments up to 6" too if they get PO'd. I had one burn up a Turbinaria (Pagoda, Cup) like that.

As far as actually touching, the Hydnophora has short tentacles, but vicious digestive filaments and really kills anything it can get its poison into. The death creeps like a fire on some corals and you have to frag the good part to save any of it. So a Hydno is harmless even close unless you actually touch it, then it rages.

Softies aren't as physically aggressive in general and can be clumped together with a few exceptions like Capnella and some of the encrusting gorgs. When a softie and a stoney touch, usually the stoney burns the softie a little and it retracts and they kind of work it out. I can't comment on the effects of chemicals put out by softies except maybe my stoneys don't grow as fast as other people's, but that isn't proven either, and I have a lot of Sins and Lobos too.

Ricordias and mushrooms have some kind of chemistry that really kills off stoney corals. Those absolutely should be off the stoneys.

Zoos get along with almost everyone else. Yellow polyps (Parazoanthus gracilis) get along with zoos, but are decorator Aiptasia otherwise and will burn up stuff.

Anthelia and Xenia don't burn, but sure can overgrow things.

That's some of the observations I have made with my gang.

My recommendation is to study all the books and articles on corals you can get your hands on. It has helped me learn a lot more about all my corals. Correct IDing is key to knowing at least certain tendencies of your coral.
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LPS coral = stinging nematocysts and need to be kept a safe distance from on another. Bubble corals can extend nematocysts up to one foot.

Leather or soft corals can engage in chemical wrfare and should be kept down stream from hard, LPS and SPS, corals. HTH
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A lot has to do with distance. In some instances - one Acro can badly sting another, or one Monti. can badly sting another. I wouldn't put anything too close too another living specimen.
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But generally speaking, LPS corals are capable of having extending sweeper tentacles that will kill other things, SPS don't.
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Some brains can also be grouped as non-stingers. Elegance can be stingers if placed below other corals (above they seldom are). Some ricordeas are stingers (even to humans!).
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I really think, close observation of your specific animals is the key to learning how your specific set of animals interact. There is a lot of Boomer's list that I don't own and couldn't specifically comment on, but like I said, the general trend in his list is plain as day, and is a useful guideline, but you have to learn your own corals' sweeper lengths and loopholes like this one: I accidentally pushed a pop bottle of GSP right against a hanging frogspawn and they were mashed together for a day or two. NOTHING HAPPENED!!!!

Here's some more, now that I have a little time here:

A Caulastrea fell upside down right into my sun zoos and nothing happened, however, my Caulastrea burned my Galaxia too when someone threw it onto the Galaxia. Of course an itsy bitsy Orange/purple Ricordia just roasted one entire Caulastrea polyp clean in one night when it got thrown on that. The Galaxia sweepers burn up the Anthelia but I believe Galaxia has a badder rap than it should have, sweepers and all.

I have heard that some of the brains (Favia or Favites, can't remember) can put out up to 12" sweepers that pack a serious whallop, so I haven't got one because of that.

Gonioporas I don't know about because I don't let anything touch it. It was damaged when I got it last June and it almost died last August and even though it wants to live, I can't risk anything stressing it. But nothing happened when the crabs (or my huge Astrea snail bulldozers) knocked a large purple frilly gorg onto it.

I have noticed that my Pocillaporas, Stylophoras and Seriatoporas tend to not hurt each other much when they touch, but let an Acro touch any of them and it will burn them. Acros are kind of mean actually but they typically have to touch to kill.
Acros kill almost all other stoney corals (Hydnos excluded). Montis are the bottom of the pecking order as most things kill them, except for a nasty orange one I got from Lonestar when he was still in business. It killed other Montis and burned an Acro, so I am thinking maybe it is some strange Porites or something NOT Monti, but dang, it sure looks like Monti. You can superglue several colored Monti digitatas together and they don't mess with each other so I still wonder.

The Acros do not put out sweepers. A sweeper is actually a tentacle that the coral somehow morphs into this long tentacle filled with nematocysts (little poison harpoon cells). The digestive filaments are little stringy things that are not tentacles and I guess come out of their mouth. The Acro filaments look like a tiny piece of thread or several. They put them out when stressed and normally you will not see them. The Hydnos put out like spaghetti, and it resembles when a shroom spews its guts

[tankgirl]

part2;

My scroll Turbinarias don't sweep or hurt anything. Big T. peltatas can kick off some lethal slime, which someone posted killed an Acro and I experienced a slough that caught on a gorg and burned the flesh off the stick in a matter of hours. Bye bye Turb. Pavona desucata (sp, the heavier stuff) puts out sweepers but doesn't seem to damage anything. I haven't seen my Pavona cactus(potatochip) do anything.

Softies, specifically leathers: I have 6 different Sinularias, a Lobo, 4 Sarcos, two Neptheas, and fuzzy(un ID able leather, I should post a pic because it is ancient and I have never seen anything remotely close to it in all these years) which could be made into flower arrangements packed tight and they don't give a rip. I have never seen gorgs kill each other any other way than overgrowing each other(including Briarium, GSP's, clavularia, and Erythropodium. <-all encrusting gorgs in my book )

Capnella is the oddball. It burns other leathers and gorgs and Montis so I kind of clump them in with the other lightweight b@d@sses like yellow polyps and Aiptasia. Heck, it may be the only thing I have that hurts zoos. Zoos don't even hurt my Montis and IMO, they are about the only really compatable softie with stoney corals.

Even though everything burns Xenia, Xenia can overgrow anything (except Hydnophora WOW! what a display of warfare as Xenias dissolve like smoke when the Hydno finally has had enough encroachment and burns it all off)

IMO, the most insidious coral is encrusting gorgonians. They can put down mat, but keep the polyps retracted so it doesn't get burned as it overgrows whatever. Further away, the polyps are out collecting food/energy for the battle front. I will have to put corky fingers(Briarium) vs Hydnophora someday to see if even the Hydno goes under.

My SPS don't like Caulerpa, but my softies and most of my LPS couldn't care less even if being choked by the stuff.
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It could be the filaments. When I had my mini-crash last August(killed a couple Acro frags and a couple Montis and screwed up a lot of other things including my Goni) there were a couple of days when the Acros looked really stringy(and I was changing water bigtime because my system was sick) and those things ended up all over the tank. I had to knock them off the other non Acro animals with the baster because I didn't want to chance it. The Turbinaria just slimes all over, more like a big leather. So the toxic spewage could be from several sources that I have seen.

On the other hand, my Acros spew stuff all day and it looks like someone barfed in my SPS tank by 7pm. The floating spooge is sick. I don't think that stuff is toxic , but rather overproduction of sugars and proteins from roasting in the sun all afternoon (500w of Iwasaki and 200w of Actinic on a 55 long) There is a constant stream of rising bubbles across the whole tank(it is 90% solid Acro frags pretty much)
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It could be the filaments

The digestive filaments are little stringy things that are not tentacles and I guess come out of their mouth. The Acro filaments look like a tiny piece of thread or several. They put them out when stressed and normally you will not see them

These are the Acontia/Actontium/ MesenteriFl filaments (gut) and they all have them to include Anemones. They are an extension of the middle ridge of the sepal filament, at the base of the coral/anemone. They also discharge numerous detachable darts (formed from micobasic p-masstigophore nematocysts) and are important defense mechanisms. One of the reasons behind this is that they don't want to anchor the prey (themselves) to the predator. All of these neurotoxins in cnida's are either protein or peptide based. These structure are also important in taxonomy (ID'ing)
On the other hand, my Acros spew stuff all day and it looks like someone barfed in my SPS tank by 7pm. The floating spooge is sick. I don't think that stuff is toxic , but rather overproduction of sugars and proteins


Yes, it is just good old waste

One of my rare books has a whole chapter just on Coral Competiton Even the mucous in some corals is toxic
Boomer

[tankgirl]

part3:

Ok, so the stringy saliva looking threads are just sorta harmless drool. That's really good to know.

As long as you not it is not the Acontia strings or strings of mucous (from shedding and corals shed mucous allot))
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Most of that good old waste is shedding of mucous but only in a very few corals is it toxic, such as the Fungia. The list here is very limited. Some corals and anemones shed up to 40 % of their daily intake. I should have been more specific on good old waste.....not much do-doo waste ( OK,****) , which is ejected from the mouth

For those that like to read and learn a great book is;

Coral Reef Ecology by Y.I. Sorokin, 1995
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Okay, so the simple afternoon "drool" isn't usually toxic (except Fungia,...) but the mucous from shedding is toxic (interesting mechanism; not wanting to anchor competitors to themselves!) and needs to be removed via water changes - correct? And, let's say, I move a coral, and it starts spewing - can I assume those are toxic mucous threads?

Since the toxic mucous threads are nematocysts in proteins and sugars, I suppose a skimmer would remove them - but, they gotta get to the skimmer (after stinging all your corals) - still, any you couldn't get would eventually get skimmed off?
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That's why the normal series for a tank cylce is brown diatoms, green algea, and cyano bacteria. because cyano grows on other dying algae
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Okay, so the simple afternoon "drool" isn't usually toxic (except Fungia,...) but the mucous from shedding is toxic

The shedding mucous of Fungids is toxic. All corals and anmmones "drool", this is shedding mucous, it is toxic in Fungids's but in rarely toxic in most other corals

(interesting mechanism: not wanting to anchor competitors to themselves!) and needs to be removed via water changes - correct?

Yes, it is a defense mechanism and when **these**strings come out you want to fet them out of the water

And, let's say, I move a coral, and it starts spewing - can I assume those are toxic mucous threads?

Yes, but this is not mucous but Acontia thread

e the toxic mucous threads are nematocysts in proteins and sugars,

No, the mucous is rarely toxic ecept in Fungids but the Acontia threads are toxic in almost all corals and anemones that have them

I suppose a skimmer would remove them - but, they gotta get to the skimmer (after stinging all your corals) - still, any you couldn't get would eventually get skimmed off?

Yes or break down chemically
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Coral Care from http://www.liveaquaria.com/

The Cauliflower Colt Coral is also referred to as Colt Coral, Soft Finger Leather Coral, Seaman's Hands Coral, or Blushing Coral. It is very difficult to identify an exact species because there is so much variation of shape and color within each. It is slippery to the touch, encrusting, and usually has small colonies. Members of the Cladiella genus generally have shorter "fingers."

It is an aggressive coral and needs space between others and itself in the reef aquarium. Particular care should be taken to place Sinularia or Sarcophyton corals out of its reach, as the Cauliflower Colt Coral will readily kill these species. It is very easy to maintain and makes an excellent coral for the beginning through expert reef aquarist. It requires medium to high lighting combined with a medium to strong water movement. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of strontium, iodine, and other trace elements to the water.
It contains the symbiotic algae zooxanthellae and receives the majority of its nutrition from the light. It will also benefit from additional food such as micro-plankton, baby brine shrimp, or foods designed for filter feeding invertebrates.

Culturing by the experienced hobbyist requires snipping off a piece of its tentacle and attaching the cutting to a solid structure such as live rock.
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The Zoanthus Colony Polyp Corals are also referred to as Sea Mats, or Button Polyps. They are colonial animals with multiple individual polyps attached to a piece of live rock.

These polyps have the ability to sting other polyps or corals. While the sting is not strong, they are semi-aggressive and need to have space between their colony and any neighbors since they tend to crowd them out. They are easy to maintain, making them a good choice for beginner reef aquarists. They require a high light level combined with a medium water movement within the aquarium. For continued good health, they will also require the addition of iodine and other trace elements to the water.

They will reproduce easily in the reef aquarium by budding (splitting off a portion of their base or mouth), which will increase the size of their colony.

They contain the symbiotic algae zooxanthellae which provide almost all of their nutritional requirements. Especially if the lighting is not optimal, they should be fed micro-plankton or baby brine shrimp.

Care Level: Easy
Light: High
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: Middle to Top
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Tan, White
Dominance: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Origin: Indonesia
Family: Zoanthidae

[tankgirl]

part 4;

Waving Hand, Thick Stem
(Xenia sp.)
Waving Hand, Thick Stem
Quick Stats
Care Level: Expert Only
Light: High
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: Bottom
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Gray, Tan, White
Dominance: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Iodine, Trace Elements
Origin: South Pacific
Family: Xeniidae

The Anthelia Thick Stem Waving Hand Coral may also be referred to as a Glove Coral or Pom-Pom Coral. They are usually white, tan, or gray. The polyps are not retractable, but do have the distinctive eight-leaved tentacles associated with all of the members of this family. They are colonial animals, and form a creeping mat which has a snowflake, or tuft-like appearance. Some have thicker stems, and when several polyps are present on their leathery base, they resemble a cheerleader's pom-pom.

Predatory fish, crabs, snails, or the stings of other corals may damage the colony quite easily. Therefore, provide adequate space between them and sessile animals, especially other types of soft corals. They are difficult to maintain in an aquarium. They require a medium to high light level combined with a medium to strong water movement within the aquarium. For continued good health, they will also require the addition of iodine and other trace elements to the water.

Under ideal conditions, and once acclimated, they may reproduce in the established reef aquarium, forming a creeping mat, which will quickly grow over any adjacent rock work.

The symbiotic algae zooxanthellae hosted within their bodies provide the majority of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis. Additional weekly feedings of micro-plankton or foods designed for filter feeding invertebrates are also needed.
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LPS Hard Corals

Large Polyp Stony (LPS) Corals are generally larger calcareous (stony) corals with large fleshy polyps. The degree of extension of the tentacles depends upon the amount of light, current, and whether the coral is feeding or not. When placing any LPS coral special care must be taken in its placement. Most of the LPS corals produce long sweeper tentacles which they use to keep any other organisms a safe distance away.
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Bubble Coral
(Plerogyra sp.)
Bubble Coral
Quick Stats
Care Level: Easy
Light: Moderate
Water Flow: Low to Medium
Placement: Bottom
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Bright Green, Yellow, White
Dominance: Aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Trace Elements, Strontium
Origin: Fiji
Family: Caryophylliidae
The Plerogyra Bubble Coral is a large polyp stony (LPS) coral and is also referred to as a Grape, or Octobubble Coral. Its genus name, Plerogyra, comes from the Latin pleres (full) and gyros (wide circle), which describes the round or oval, bubble-shaped, polyps resembling a cluster of grapes when open during the day. It is an aggressive coral with long sweeper tentacles that will sting corals that are placed in close proximity to it in the reef aquarium. It can also sting the reef aquarist who tries to handle it when its sweeper tentacles are out, so precaution should be taken.

It requires low to moderate lighting combined with low to moderate water movement in the aquarium. For continued good health, it will also need the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It will benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of brine shrimp or micro-plankton.
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Cup Coral, Pagoda
(Turbinaria spp.)
Cup Coral, Pagoda
Quick Stats
Care Level: Easy
Light: Moderate
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: Bottom to Middle
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Brown, Cream, Gray, Green, Yellow
Dominance: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Dendrophylliidae

The Turbinaria Corals are large polyp stony (LPS) corals. Depending upon the species, they are referred to as a Cup, Pagoda, Turban, Vase, or Scroll Corals. The genus name, Turbinaria, is derived from the Greek word turbinatus (cone-shaped) because it usually grows in a conical or cup shape while living on the reef. It may also be found in the form of cups, ruffled ridges, plates, vases, or scrolls. It may grow horizontally or vertically. Although the Turbinaria Corals may be bright yellow, green, brown, gray, or cream, this particular specimen is green. A number of species may extend their polyps during the day or night while in an aquarium.

Turbinaria sp. vary in the amount of care they require. Those that are highly convoluted or thin plates are the most difficult to care for. Others, like this one, make excellent candidates for the novice reef aquarist. It is a peaceful reef inhabitant and does not bother other corals that are placed in close proximity to it. However, it should still be provided with ample space away from other corals because it does grow quickly. It will require moderate lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. For its continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It will benefit from additional food in the form of brine shrimp or plankton.

[tankgirl]

part 5;

Plate Coral, Short Tentacle
(Fungia spp.)
Plate Coral, Short Tentacle
Quick Stats
Care Level: Easy
Light: High
Water Flow: Low to Medium
Placement: Bottom
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Green, Purple, Red
Dominance: Aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: South Pacific
Family: Fungiidae

The Short Tentacle Plate Coral is a large polyp stony (LPS) coral often referred to as a Disk, Mushroom, Chinaman, Fungia Plate, or Tongue Coral. It comes in a variety of colors, some very bright. Its genus name, Fungia, was taken directly from the Latin "fungus" (mushroom), which describes its calcareous skeleton shape.

It is a solitary, aggressive coral with shorter tentacles than its cousin the Long Tentacle Plate Coral (Heliofungia sp.). Even with short tentacles, it can still damage other corals that it comes in contact with. With placement in the aquarium, keep in mind that it will often inflate itself with water and expand to twice its size. It will do best on the bottom of a reef aquarium, preferably lying on a fine sandy substrate. They are known to migrate. The Short Tentacle Plate Coral is easy to maintain in the reef aquarium and makes an excellent candidate for the beginner reef aquarist. Care should be taken in handling it however, to prevent damage. It requires strong lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It should be fed micro-plankton or brine shrimp.
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Torch Coral
(Euphyllia glabrescens)
Torch Coral
Quick Stats
Care Level: Moderate
Light: Moderate
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: Bottom
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Brown, Green, Tan
Dominance: Aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Caryophylliidae

The Euphyllia Torch Coral is a large polyp stony (LPS) coral, often referred to as the Branching Hammer or Branching Anchor Coral, or Pom-Pom Coral. It has long and flowing polyps with single rounded tips which are visible throughout the day and night, hiding its branching skeletal base most of the time. It may be brown or green with yellow on the tips of its tentacles. The yellow will sometimes appear to glow under actinic lighting.

Provide plenty of room between the Euphyllia Torch Coral and other sessile animals, since at night, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to several inches from its base and sting other coral species. It is moderately difficult to maintain, but it is a popular coral that will thrive under proper conditions and excellent water quality parameters. Ideally, it needs to have moderate lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. Its aquatic home will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water for its continued good health. It will also benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of micro-plankton or brine shrimp.
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Ridge/Hammerhead Coral
(Euphyllia ancora)
Ridge/Hammerhead Coral
Quick Stats
Care Level: Moderate
Light: Moderate
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: Bottom
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 81.-8.4
Color Form: Brown, Green, Tan
Dominance: Aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Caryophylliidae

The Ridge or Hammerhead Coral is a large polyp stony (LPS) coral and often referred to as Euphyllia Hammer Coral or Anchor Coral. Its common namea are derived from the appearance of its hammer-, or anchor-shaped tentacles. Its polyps are visible throughout the day and night and hide its skeletal base. It may be green, tan, or brown in color, with lime green or yellow tips on the ends of its tentacles that glow under actinic lighting. Some varieties may be branched which makes them look similar to a Torch Coral (E. glabrescens).

It is moderately difficult to maintain, but with proper water conditions in the aquarium, it will thrive. It will require moderate lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. At night, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to six inches in the reef aquarium, stinging other species of corals and animals. Allow plenty of room between it and other neighboring corals. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It will benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of micro-plankton or brine shrimp.
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Wall Coral
(Euphyllia divisa)
Wall Coral
Quick Stats
Care Level: Moderate
Light: Moderate to High
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: Bottom
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Green, Pale Brown, Tan
Dominance: Aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Caryophylliidae

The Wall Coral is a large polyp stony coral (LPS) often referred to as the Frogspawn, Octopus, Grape, or Torch Coral. Its polyps remain visible throughout both the day and night, resembling a mass of fish eggs or frog eggs, hence one of its common names Frogspawn. Its coloration is green or brown to tan in color. With its appearance and coloration it would make a nice addition to any reef aquarium.

During the evenings, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to six inches beyond its base into the reef aquarium surroundings. It will sting other neighboring corals in the reef aquarium, therefore, it is best to leave plenty of room between itself and other types of corals. It is moderately difficult to maintain, but it is a popular coral that will thrive under the proper conditions. It will need to have moderate to heavy lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

The symbiotic algae zooxanthellae hosted within its body provides the majority of its nutritional requirements from photosynthesis. It will also benefit from additional food in the form of micro-plankton or brine shrimp.

[tankgirl]

part 6; (more from liveaquaria - I'd ignore some of the feeding req's info or take it with a grain of salt)

SPS Hard Corals

In general, the Small Polyped Stony (SPS) corals have small polyps on a calcerous (stony) skeleton. In many instances they are either branching or plated. Most species prefer bright light and strong currents, but there are exceptions. They are often cultured from fragments which are broken off. SPS corals are generally considered more difficult to keep than the LPS or soft corals and are generally not recommended for beginners. There is a gradient however, some Large Polyp Stony (LPS) Corals are actually more difficult to maintain than some of the SPS Corals.
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Montipora Coral, Encrusting - Colored
(Montipora sp.)
Montipora Coral, Encrusting - Colored
Quick Stats
Care Level: Moderate
Light: Moderate
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: All
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Brown, Green, Pink, Purple
Dominance: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Acroporidae

The Montipora Encrusting Coral is an small polyp stony (SPS) coral often referred to as Cabbage, Lettuce, Velvet, or Velvet Rock Coral. The Montipora Corals come in a vast variety of forms and colors. Some are encrusting. Others include M. digitata which is generally a branching species; M. stellata which has rough, irregular, upright plates; and M. capricornis which is shaped like a vase. With over 200 species of Montipora documented, determining the exact species of any one specimen can be very difficult, even for scientists. Its genus name, Montipora, is derived from the Latin mons (mountain) plus porus (pores). The Latin name describes its mountainous skeletal structure, which is covered in pores.

The Montipora Encrusting Coral is peaceful and can be placed in close proximity to other similar peaceful corals in the reef aquarium. It is moderately difficult to maintain and should be housed in a mature reef aquarium. It will require medium lighting combined with a medium water movement within the aquarium. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It will also benefit from additional food fed weekly in the form of micro-plankton or foods designed for filter feeding invertebrates.
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Porites Coral, Yellow
(Porites spp.)
Porites Coral, Yellow
Quick Stats
Care Level: Moderate
Light: High
Water Flow: Strong
Placement: Middle to Top
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Green, Yellow
Dominance: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Poritidae

The Porites Coral is a small polyp stony (SPS) coral often referred to as the Jeweled Finger, Jewel, or Finger Coral. While the green or yellow branching form is most common, it is found in a variety of shapes and color forms. It is sometimes called the "Christmas Tree Worm Rock" since Christmas Tree Worms are often found attached to its surface. Its polyps are retracted for most of the day, but they emerge at night.

Its behavior is peaceful with only very short tentacles, and can generally be placed closer to other peaceful corals in the reef aquarium. The Porites Coral requires a high light level combined with strong water movement. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It will benefit from additional food in the form of micro-plankton or other micro-foods in the evening while its tentacles are visible.
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Birdsnest Coral - Colored
(Seriatopora sp.)
Birdsnest Coral - Colored
Quick Stats
Care Level: Difficult
Light: High
Water Flow: Medium
Placement: Middle to Top
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Brown, Cream, Pink, Yellow
Dominance: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: South Pacific
Family: Pocilloporidae

The Birdsnest Coral is also referred to as Seriatopora Bird's Nest, Needle, Finger, or Brush Coral. The genus name, Seriatopora, comes from the Latin Seriatus (arranged in a series) and porus (pore) because its calcium skeleton is composed of a series of pores making up the whole structure. It is a small polyp stony (SPS) coral with very delicate, thin branches with needle-like tips that differentiate it from its closest relative, the Staghorn Corals that have much thicker branches. It is found in a variety of color forms with pink being the most common. It will change colors in the reef aquarium growing darker with age.

The Birdsnest Coral needs strong lighting and moderate water current to maintain its bright colors. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water. While it does not require additional food to maintain its health in the reef aquarium, it will feed on micro-plankton and foods designed for filter feeding invertebrates. Many scientists and hobbyists have recently cultured young Birdsnest Corals by fragmenting a mother colony and raising the small branches in impeccable water conditions under intense lighting.
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Staghorn Acropora Coral, Blue
(Acropora sp.)
Staghorn Acropora Coral, Blue
Quick Stats
Care Level: Difficult
Light: High
Water Flow: Strong
Placement: All
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: All Colors
Dominance: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: Yes
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: South Pacific
Family: Acroporidae

The Acropora Staghorn Coral resembles the antlers of a deer, and is also referred to as Antler Coral. Acropora Corals can also be found in other shapes: bushy, clustered, bottlebrush, finger, table, columnar, or plate. It is a small polyp stony (SPS) coral and it is very difficult to identify the exact species of any one specimen. Its genus name, Acropora, comes from the combination of the words akron (extremity, Greek) plus porous (pore, Latin), meaning that its calcium skeleton is porous at the extremities or tips of each branch. It is found in a variety of colors, and may change color forms while in the reef aquarium. Acropora Corals are among the fastest growing corals on a reef, and are responsible for the majority of reef formations.

The Acropora Staghorn Coral can be difficult to acclimate, however, once established in the proper environment, it will grow. The growth rate of the Acropora Staghorn Coral is much more rapid than most of the other corals found in an established reef aquarium. It can also be cultured and grow into a new colony from living fragments or broken pieces, if conditions are ideal. The Acropora Staghorn Coral prefers a high light level combined with a strong water current within the aquarium. For continued good health, it will require the addition of supplemental calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

The symbiotic algae zooxanthellae are hosted within its body, so it receives the majority of its nutritional requirements from photosynthesis. While it does not require additional food to maintain its health in the reef aquarium, it will feed on micro-plankton or foods designed for filter feeding invertebrates.
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Horn Coral, Fluorescent
(Hydnophora sp.)
Horn Coral, Fluorescent
Quick Stats
Care Level: Difficult
Light: High
Water Flow: Strong
Placement: All
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Color Form: Green, Cream
Dominance: Aggressive
Ideal Supplements: Calcium, Strontium, Trace Elements
Origin: South Pacific
Family: Merulinidae

The Hydnophora Horn Coral is a SPS coral often referred to as Knob, Velvet Horn, or Branch Coral. It is often confused with Acropora Coral because of its similar appearance, but they are only distantly related. Its genus name, Hydnophora, comes from the Latin hydnon (tuber) and phero (to carry), which describes its tuberous skeletal base. While members of its genus come in many shapes and colors, it is a branching variety of a cream or bright, fluorescent green color, and very short blunt polyps.

Its behavior is often labeled very aggressive; it will kill most other corals that come in close proximity with it. It is important to provide plenty of room between itself and other corals. The Hydnophora Horn Coral is a difficult coral to maintain, but if given the proper conditions, it will do well in the reef aquarium. It will require a high light level combined with a medium water movement. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

It will feed on micro-plankton or food designed for filter feeding invertebrates, if it is offered.

[tankgirl]

last bit;
Turbinaria sp. coral, aka Pagoda coral. It will do well under both Power Compact and Metal Halide lighting. It should receive moderate current, enough to make the polyps sway slightly. Growth and polyp extension will improve with frequent feedings of zooplankton, small pieces of shrimp, or even marine flake food. It is a non aggressive coral so it is easily placed in the reef. Do not place it near mushroom polyps. They will cause severe tissue damage to this coral.

Euphyllia divisa, or Frogspawn coral. This species does better under higher lighting conditions like that of Metal Halide and higher wattage amounts of Power Compact lights. It prefers low to moderate current. Too much current will cause the polyps to remain somewhat withdrawn. This coral is a very aggressive feeder so it needs to feed frequently with small pieces of shrimp, fish, scallops, squid. Make sure to give this coral room to spread. It is very aggressive and will sting nearby corals, especially other stony corals.

[ScottT1980]

Unreal TG!!! Karma at you for the info!

Take er easy
Scott T.

[BigReepher]

Yeah I was gonna say what Tankgirl said. j/k Great post TG, that's a few books worth of info right there. Karma to ya. I learned quite a bit.

[mwrager]

Good Job Tank Girl, Karma to you. That is some of the best info I have seen.