red bug

[twoclowns]

I purchased two brain corals that were in a tank is infested with red bugs, I have them in a QT right now. I really don't want to treat it with interceptor (which I have) how long should I QT them to make sure the red bugs are dead, there is no Acros in the QT tank. My tank has been free of red bugs now for 10 months and I don't want them every again. thanks for any help- Keith ps my store was finally able to get my 215g oceanic now I just have to find a few very strong people to help me move it considering I hurt my shoulder at work a few months ago and am not supposed to lift heavy things, 450 pounds.

[mps9506]

Are you sure it's red bugs? If you don't have acros if there are red bugs on the corals they will die eventually without the acropora hosts.

[slysock]

have you ever stopped to think that these might be tigerpods? because if they are , they are extremly good for your tank.

[JWarren]

Let's see them critters! Get a pic!

[mps9506]

Just for refrence this picture is from a few years ago when my tank got infested with the bugs. They are tiny, it would be nearly impossible to see these on a brain coral. The "red bugs" are the tiny spots between the polyps and in person you can see the dots moving around on the coral sucking the life right outta the acro.

[Frankie]

That picture gives me the willy's Mike! That would freak me if i had to deal with red bugs.

[twoclowns]

yes the tank that had the brain coral has red bugs I know what they look like because I have had them before, very tiny orange colored bugs, and I never said that I saw them on the brain, it was in the same tank as acros that have red bugs even the owner admitted that the tank has red bug and is going to be treated sometime in the future. I have acros in my main tank and don't want to go through treatment of it again. Just wanted to know if anybody knows how long it takes to starve them out?

[prow]

no idea but interceptor, a dog dewormer works great and only targets certain bugs and worms. most of the pods and worms we want will not be effected or any of your biobacterium. i have used and the last time i dosed i did not even do a water change, that was sometime ago but tank and everything is doing great. one acro i thought i lost (looked like a dead skeleton) came back. well thats my suggestion, dose interceptor and dont worry about it

[mps9506]

Originally Posted by twoclowns

yes the tank that had the brain coral has red bugs I know what they look like because I have had them before, very tiny orange colored bugs, and I never said that I saw them on the brain, it was in the same tank as acros that have red bugs even the owner admitted that the tank has red bug and is going to be treated sometime in the future. I have acros in my main tank and don't want to go through treatment of it again. Just wanted to know if anybody knows how long it takes to starve them out?

Ah, ok I get it now
I'm not sure how long it takes for them to do without a host to tell the truth.
I'm gonna do some searches, maybe Dustin with ORA has an answer on it somewhere.
I'll see what I can dig up, it's been a while since I've had to deal with em.

[mps9506]

Originally Posted by Frankie

That picture gives me the willy's Mike! That would freak me if i had to deal with red bugs.

Yeah, espcially when you loose a staghorn colony that is ~10 inches across, a granulosa colony about 7 inches across and purple tort that you paid $300 for
Unfortunately the interceptor treatment was still getting tried at ORA when I lost my acros.
My millepora's lived through it just fine though. If I do an SPS tank again it might be Milleporas and slimers's only

[mps9506]

I just realized you have extra interceptor and a QT tank. Do you have any issues with treating the brain coral in the QT tank with interceptor?

I'm sure you already have this but from Eric B:

Suggested Treatment Protocol

Based on my observations and work described here, I suggest the following as a treatment protocol for Acropora colonies that have been colonized by the parasitic copepod, Tegastes acroporanus ("red bugs") as a modification of the novel protocol developed by Dorton. The process is more labor intensive, but should be more effective in preventing any future need to treat Tegastes-parasitized Acropora in the display tank (provided quarantine is utilized for any new coral acquisitions). It should also help to reduce the current epizootic within reef aquaria by limiting the potential for spread between tanks by trading or purchase of Tegastes-colonized fragments or colonies.
1. Assume that every Acropora in the tank is colonized, even if there are not visible copepods on the colony.
rationale: copepods are cryptic on normally colored colonies, can be cryptic on pale colonies, and are small enough to be easily missed by examination through tank glass or even by direct observation with the naked eye. Furthermore, the copepods are motile, and swim between colonies. Therefore, any colonies removed for treatment may leave unnoticed indivuiduals on other colonies or allow for copepods that abandon hosts being removed for treatment to locate uncolonized Acropora.
2. All Acropora colonies should be removed from the tank and placed into a container for examination. This can be perfored one colony at a time. A magnifying glass, magnifying lamp, dissecting scope or some other method should be used to slowly and carefully examine each colony from every possible angle. The corals will tolerate extended handling periods out of water to facilitate examination. The copepods will be covered with a smooth and somewhat shny carapace and with coral mucus and a thin film of water. Without examination from multiple light incidence angles, it is possible that individuals will go undetected. If a colony is too large or too densely branched to allow for a complete examination, consider it to be colonized. Any colonies that are determing to be free of copepods can be placed into a quarantine tank without treatment, but I would suggest reexamination prior to reintroduction to the main display tank.
rationale: Examination by the naked eye is insuficient to detect all copepods.
3. All Acropora colonies found to have copepods present should be treated in a treatment tank or container where dose levels and colonies can be carefully monitored. The treatment tank can be large or small, and can be used to treat many colonies at once or one at a time. The water should be circulating strongly across colonies to not only for drug exposure but to help dislodge dead copepods. Following treatment, each colony should be re-examined in water under magnification to ensure 100% kill rates. Copepods still attached to the coral can be probed with a needle, pin, pipette or syringe and removed from the colony. If copepods are found to still exhibit any motion, retreatment should occur immediately.
rationale: treatment in the tank should be avoided for several reasons: a) it will be impossible to assess whether or not a 100% kill rate has been achieved; b) in tank treatment will result in mass loss of other suscpetible species including amphipods, shrimps, lobsters, crabs, polychaetes, nematodes, copepods, and possibly other invertebrates which have not been tested for toxicity to the drug ; and c) repeated treatments can result in resistance making future treatments more difficult.
4. Treatment dosage appears to flexible, if not variable. Given the apparent low toxicity to corals even at elevated dosages, I would suggest a dose level equal or higher (up to 10x) than suggested by Dorton. Dorton suggestes three separate treatments of six hours. Upon examination of treated colonies, six hours appears to be insufficient for a 100% kill rate, while 12 hours seems to be more effective. In the one test where coral mortality was observed, the treatment time was only six hours, and in all other tests, no ill effects to the coral were seen with extended treatment times. It appears that time, and not dosage level, is the critical variable towards providing 100% kill rates for the copepods. Regardless of the dose or treatment duration, all colonies should be carefully examined before they are removed from treatment. For colonies being treated that are too large or densely branched to allow for examination, the treatment should be continued for 24 hours with careful monitoring to ensure that the colonies are enduring the treatment well and that the water does not become fouled from excessive mucus production, other fauna killed during treatment, or other stressors. If these conditions occur, treatment tank water should be dumped into buckets, sterilized by the addition of bleach to the water, and disposed down a sanitary sewage line. The treatment tank should then be refilled with tank water and new drug added to the water.
5. All treated corals and completely free of Tegastes acroporanus, as well as those examined and found to be uncolonized (#2 above), should be placed into a quarantine tank filled with tank water filtered through a coffee filter or other filtration apparatus. The quarantine tank should have filtration, water flow and light sufficient to keep treated colonies alive for five days.
6. No Acropora should remain in or be placed back into the main display tank for five days. This is the longest period of time it has taken for any Tegastes acroporanus to survive without a host from observations to date. This assumes that there are no other surrogate hosts for this species, and that the observations of death from 3-5 days without a host are realistic of what would occur in a display tank.
rationale: It is possible, even likely, that during the removal of colonized Acropora, some copepods swim off the colony into the tank. They will seek out other hosts. It is also possible that some are in the tank at any moment seeking new hosts, even without the process of colony removal. As far as can be ascertained, they are direct developers and thus do not have a free-swimming larval stage and they do not lay eggs on the host or substrates that can later hatch. However, they can live without a host for several days. Ensuring that any copepods left in the tank after removal of hosts die requires, at my best estimate, 3-5 days. I suggest five days to be conserative.
7. After five days, colonies in quarantine should be re-examined under magnification and if found to be free of copepods, can be returned to the display tank. If copepods are found on any colonies, repeat steps 3-7."

Just do it on the brain coral.

[reefman420]

intercept it,i would hate to deal with red bugs,i have over 2,000 dollars worth of acro in my display and frag tanks,thats why i to qt,and dip(treat,everything that goes in..just not worth the headache,sixline wrasses eat rb to