Iwaki 55RLT - Will this work?

[bluespotjawfish]

I just bought the Iwaki 55RLT for my 125 gallon tank. My overflow only accommodates 700 gph. If I set this up with a valve that controls the flow into the SCWD to work with the overflow and direct the remainder of the flow back into the sump will that work?

[BoomerD]

WILL it work? Yes. Is it the most efficient way of using that pump? Probably not, since you're starting with much more volume than you need, but by using the sump by-pass plumbing, it CAN be doable.
I used the RC head-loss calculator with the following plumbing config:
2-90's, 5' of vertical plumbing, 3/4" pipe, 1 ball valve, 1 union, (and of course, 1 entrance and 1 exit) and get a final flow rate of 922 GPH.
That's not horribly over powered for a 700 GPH overflow, but I prefer never to run an overflow at it's max, to allow for minor losses in that plumbing, and in case of minor algae build-up. For a 700 GPH overflow, I'd figure no more than 600 GPH.
While the numbers I used may not reflect your actual plumbing, they give a good idea of the flow rate from that pump. To get more accurate numbers, enter your actual plumbing set-up into the calculator:
Reef Central Online Community

[bluespotjawfish]

Thanks.

[bluespotjawfish]

The only other options I can find locally are the 40 RLXT and the 30 RT. I think the 40 RLXT is too much and the 30 isn't enough???

[mps9506]

Is it an AGA overflow?

[bluespotjawfish]

Not a drilled tank.

the 55RLT does not work on this - blasting everything including the drain back to the sump. I don't know what to do. Everything is closed and I am stuck without anything that will work.

Not only that my tunze powerhead got blasted and fell on my xenia. (And broke the clip that attaches it to the magnet.)

Great mother's day ain't it?

[mps9506]

Stick a T in the PVC in the return and route the T back to the sump to reduce the flow to the tank a bit.

[Woodstock]

Good idea Mike.

I use that same pump on my tank but it has two overflows.

[mps9506]

I was going to say if it was an AGA overflow to convert both holes to drain lines and increase the teeth size in the wall. The best long term solution might be to get two overflows Or do I smell a tank upgrade???

[bluespotjawfish]

I was able to rig up a temporary fix. I have installed my old, old, old, submersible pump from my old, old, old protein skimmer. I'd guess it is pumping about 350-400 gph.

I already have a split return line using the SWCD, and a T before that with a drain back to the sump. Both valves were wide open and water was gushing across the room (from the top of the tank in two places and from the sump! I just upgraded the overflow and really don't want two boxes in the display. Had I known the pump was going to go out, I would have a double drain overflow box. I really don't want 2 overflow boxes in the tank. BTW, the tank itself is about the only thing that hasn't been upgraded. If that breaks - I'm out of business!

Tomorrow I have to take this pump back and get something else. Did I say it was a great mother's day? Well, both of my kids told me they loved me (even though I practically ignored them) and my mom just called. She wasn't home this morning when I called her, and she always makes me feel better! It's a bummer I didn't have time to visit with my kids and that I didn't get to see my mom, but we will catch up next week.

It is margarita time! (And time to do the laundry, etc.)

[sasquatch]

The rlxt is a recirculating pump and i think a different impeller? why not go with the 30 as the main and supplement it with a mag 350, then you have a failsafe situation if one fails?

[BoomerD]

Do you have your return set up like this one?

(pic from Melevsreef)
As you see, there is the pump in the back, with the return split so that one line goes into the fuge, one to the sump, and one to the tank...That way, you can balance the flow between the 3 outlets.
I DID mention that I thought the MD55 was a lot of flow for your 700 GPH overflow...and perhaps, it won't actually handle the full 700 GPH...
This "balancing act" between overflow and return pump can be a real PITA to get right.

[DaveK]

I a bit surprised that you had problems with the 55RLT. I use one on my 125 gal reef and found it to be an excellent pump.

It is a pressure rated pump, which means at a given flow rate ,the pressure in the line will be much greater than your typical submersible "glorified powerhead" pumps. You do need to plumb the return section like you were plumbing your home. All the connections much be glued together, clamped together, or screwed together. You can't just slip the pieces together.

[bluespotjawfish]

Thanks Boomer, yes you did say it wouldn't be ideal. I was thinking with the head loss, the SCWD, and the return line to the sump, that it would be much closer than it is. Oh well. I have the T for the return to the sump, with a valve on that, then I have another value just before the SCWD. I don't have the pump going to the fuge (the pump from the UV sterilizer runs that).

I know the old pump really only pumped between 550 and 600 after considering head loss and all. I thought I would need the T for the return to the sump on that pump, but I always had it shut off (except at feeding time).

What do you think about the Mag 7 or Mag 9.5 (used internally)? Would they run hotter or cooler than my T2? Noise?

[Frankie]

You could always upgrade the tank with a coast to coast overflow and push a ton more water through your system!
I also like the way melv set that refugium intake up. Could be the answer.