Qt

[DML08]

would like to know how/what other people are using as a QT tank?
right now im using a 14g tank with HOB filter (for carbon) and a pc. just set this thing up 2 weeks ago and gettin ready for some goods for the main tank. usally how long should a QT last for fish and corals?

[Woodstock]

A Fish Quarantine Process - Step by Step

REad up on the many 'sticky' threads in the Disease & Treatment section. LOTS of info there!
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...es-treatments/

Here is a thread on my QT:
My 29 gallon QT/Hospital Tank

All of my fish are healthy and ICH free thanks to my QT

[goldenmean]

Woodstock knows her QT!

[DML08]

very nice woodstock! so here is my next question... should a new fish that is in QT that has not shown any sign's of a disease be treated with meds anyways?

[DML08]

Bump... anybody!

[DML08]

Bump... anybody!

[BigAl07]

Easy on the there... *Grins*

I don't medicate any of my new arrivals.... maybe I've just been lucky but I have never medicated anything. Now keep in mind I'm still "new" in many ways.

[goldenmean]

There are so many disease and so many meds how would you know what would be effective.
New fish should spend six weeks in QT and give meds only if signs of disease.

[Woodstock]

(moved to Fish Diseases & Treatments)

Sorry, lost sight of this thread.

Originally Posted by DML08

very nice woodstock! so here is my next question... should a new fish that is in QT that has not shown any sign's of a disease be treated with meds anyways?

There are two fish that are recommended for treatment with or without symptoms: anemone fish and some tangs. The anemone fish are usually treated for brooklynella using formallin and the tangs are usually treated for ICH using cupramine.
Please thoroughly read Leebca's detailed posts for further information. It is critical that you know all of the intricacies of QT'ing and medicating before starting.

Stocking the Marine Fish Medicine Cabinet

Marine Ich - Myths and Facts

Copper - Treatment, Use, Problems

A Fish Quarantine Process - Step by Step

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...es-treatments/

[kathywithbirds]

I have used stress coat. It doesn't really "medicate," but I'm generally hoping it helps their slime coat keep them healthy.

[Lee]

I'm probably going to get flamed here, but I am strongly against long QT procedures in an un-cycled tank

Most of the 'QT guides' I read on the internet tell you to not use a biological filter, just use a sponge filter. Well, I had a medium sized tang in a 20 gal long QT tank, and within 2.5 days, ammonia levels were between .5 and 1 ppm. Which basically means that unless you are doing super frequent water changes, you are probably exposing your fish to dangerous levels of ammonia.

The whole point of quarantine is to make sure they have no diseases they'll bring to the main tank, and to provide the fish a low stress environment to adapt to his new home. When a fish is under stress, its much less likely to be able to fight off diseases, so if you are putting a fish into an un-cycled tank that will have poor water conditions, you are probably increasing their stress level to a point where they are more likely to show symptoms that they may have fought off in proper water conditions.

The last fish I had in QT didn't move at all, except a little bit when I fed him. The instant he went in the main tank, he was swimming freely like a normal fish. When fish are stressed, they behave strangely. Tangs lay on their sides (as mine was doing in QT). When he went in the main tank, he behaved normally, even with the addition of all the other fish and stressors, which means that the uncycled water quality of the QT was probably causing more stress than the new tank mates.

My home does not permit having a running, cycled QT tank up and running at all times. I just don't have the room. That means before I get a new fish, I have to break out the QT tank and fill it then and there. So I almost never QT longer than a week if the fish shows no symptoms of disease or parasite. I give them at least a few days to a week in QT to safely make the transition to my house so that they aren't attacked right out of the bag, but after that - if they're not showing symptoms, I like to get them out of QT and into good water conditions where they have a better chance of keeping any diseases at bay.

I think that if you can have a cycled tank with a functioning biological filter capable of handling the load the fish will produce up and running at all times, by all means, QT the fish for 3-4 weeks. But don't be surprised if your QT'd fish in an uncycled tank hides day and night and doesn't move much... Its probably because he's breathing poison.

[Woodstock]

You won't get flammed You bring up valid points of keeping the water quality high in a QT. Many, many QT fish are unfortunately subjected to poor water conditions due to high ammonia/nitrites and even nitrates. These poor conditions can occur with an uncycled tank AS WELL as a cycled QT and thus it is critical to test for ammonia & nitrites.

I will always encourage the use of QT for a minium of 6 weeks whether cycled or not. Daily testing (at least once a day but twice is even better) for ammonia and nitrites and the subsequent water changes necessary to keep those levels down are required for success.

Additional testing of nitrAtes (keep below 10ppm) and alkalinity are also part of a successful QT'ing procedure.

Daily water changes are most often needed when QT'ing as is a quiet location for teh tank and adequate hiding areas for the fish. Doing these will ensure a successful and stress free QT period for the fish.

Either cycled or uncycled, QT'ing all new fish for at least 6 weeks is necessary to keep disease out of the main display.

[kathywithbirds]

I"m curious what people will say about getting fish from a REALLY GOOD supplier who has a policy of QTing... lets pick on Drs Foster and Smith... and skipping your own QT.

Do you trust their QTing, esp. if you don't have room or time or don't trust that a QT will have stable enough water?

[Lee]

Originally Posted by Woodstock

You won't get flammed You bring up valid points of keeping the water quality high in a QT. Many, many QT fish are unfortunately subjected to poor water conditions due to high ammonia/nitrites and even nitrates. These poor conditions can occur with an uncycled tank AS WELL as a cycled QT and thus it is critical to test for ammonia & nitrites.

I will always encourage the use of QT for a minium of 6 weeks whether cycled or not. Daily testing (at least once a day but twice is even better) for ammonia and nitrites and the subsequent water changes necessary to keep those levels down are required for success.

Additional testing of nitrAtes (keep below 10ppm) and alkalinity are also part of a successful QT'ing procedure.

Daily water changes are most often needed when QT'ing as is a quiet location for teh tank and adequate hiding areas for the fish. Doing these will ensure a successful and stress free QT period for the fish.

Either cycled or uncycled, QT'ing all new fish for at least 6 weeks is necessary to keep disease out of the main display.

I don't think that point (the enlarged font) is stressed enough to beginners, but I think its absolutely crucial. If you don't do daily or every other day water changes, you could be causing your fish more harm than good.

I should also note that I am NOT condoning dropping new fish right into the tank. Especially after shipping, I feel they really do need some time on their own to get acquainted to your food and water...

[kathywithbirds]

So Lee, what do you do for new fish?

I have a 55g that I set up as a QT sorta and it sorta turned into a FOWLR. I feel OK using meds in it if I have to. Haven't had to, thank god.