A Fish Quarantine Process - Step by Step

[leebca]

A QUARANTINE PROCESS FOR FISH

There are almost as many different quarantine processes as there are aquarists in the hobby for more than 10 years. About the only thing there are more of are uninformed hobbyists who claim a quarantine is bad for fish, or who don't want to spend the time, or inaccurately claim not all fish can or should be quarantined, or who don't want to spend the $40. for a quarantine kit, or who don't believe it is necessary, or who believe that a healthy fish can survive any disease or parasite.

We, the Old Guard, for the most part know better. I wrote . . .more than 10 years because if you've been in the hobby that long, you've come to realize that performing a quarantine process is essential to good marine husbandry. The smarter aquarists know this from the outset and began using a quarantine process from the first day in the hobby!

What good is a quarantine process? There's a whole list that a quarantine process will:
1) Further acclimate the fish to captive life without being bothered by other fishes;
2) Get the fish to eat without it 'running away' and hiding;
3) Get the fish on the right foods and nutrients;
4) Allow the fish to eat without competition;
5) Give the fish a chance to recognize and become acclimated to the aquarist;
6) Give the fish a chance to heal any capture or travel injury or trauma;
7) Give the fish a chance to recover from any condition or disease;
8) Prepare the fish for a more competitive life in the community/reef tank; and
9) Protect the health of the display tank livestock.

Maybe you can think of more advantages/benefits of a quarantine process? I think the best phrase I have ever seen another person post was, "Quarantine provides a new fish, sanctuary."

It may sound corny but ultimately -- The only thing you want to add to the marine system is the fish (as opposed to parasites, pathogens, and disease).

Most aquarists as I do, have an emotional investment with the fishes in the display tank. There is a money investment too. A new fish bringing disease into the display that kills other fish can be a significant loss of monies. But for me the far greater loss is the loss of fish life for failing to protect the display fishes from new arrivals bringing in disease. Ultimately, the quarantine process is a stress reducer not an added stress to a new fish.

Even though only about 1/3 novices and less experienced hobbyists perform a quarantine process, it is a process performed by all marine livestock professionals (e.g., fish vets, public and private aquarium management).

I can only slightly alter the quarantine process found in this excellent and comprehensive article: An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

I disagree with the above article on one point: Length of time to hold a fish in quarantine. Four weeks is too short of time. I recommend to quarantine no less than 6 weeks. Professionals may quarantine fishes 3 or 4 weeks, but they take scrapings and/or clippings of the fish and perform microscopic examinations to identify the presence or absence of parasites and disease. Since I don't expect the average marine aquarist to do this, 6 weeks in quarantine is the minimum I recommend.

This post is to outline my quarantine process in the context of the acquisition of a new fish; and to further detail some aspects of my quarantine process. Use it all or as much as you want, if you like what I do. Keep in mind that I can't/won't recommend anything less than this. Let's jump into the water. . .

NOTE: Only quarantine one fish at a time.

The Quarantine process, abbreviated and in outline form:

Equipment and Supplies (The basic setup is often available as a 'special' package)

1. Properly sized bare-bottomed tank (about 5-7 gallons for every inch of fish, longer and shallow for fish like tangs that travel distances); this is the quarantine tank (QT)
2. Lighting (enough for the fish to see their food, at least)
3. Heater
4. Simple Sponge Filter (corner filter) -- one per 15-20 gallons of water; with air pump and air tubing
5. Cleaned PVC piping or plastic decorations so fish can hide
6. A place to put this QT
7. All the usual test kits (at least ammonia, nitrite, and pH (or pH meter - see 8.), optional: alkalinity)
8. Measuring devices: BUY the refractometer (forget using a hydrometer for hyposalinity treatments, which you're likely going to have to do sometime if you stay in this hobby more than a couple of years), thermometer, pH meter (if you can afford $60-80 for a handheld field meter), etc.
9. RO/DI or distilled water and your favorite artificial salt mix. Do not use tap water in the QT or display tank.
10. Treatment equipment and medications according to: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...e-cabinet.html
11. Optionally, a substrate of clean and pure silica sand is okay ONLY IF you will quarantine a fish that MUST dig into the sand. Some silica sands are contaminated with carbonates and they must not be used.

[Note what's not on this list: carbonate substrate, powerheads, circulating pumps, skimmer, UV, ozone unit, landscaping, and carbonate containing rocks (live or otherwise)]

Preparation

The sponge filter should be in the display system (e.g., sump) and running all the time to be seeded with nitrifying bacteria to be the biological filter for the QT. It takes about 4 to 8 weeks for the sponge to be ready to serve as the QT biological filter.

Starting the QT

1. Fill QT with water from the display tank or make up fresh saltwater.
2. Start bio-filter (add sponge from display tank to QT and run it).
3. Tests: ammonia, nitrite, pH, specific gravity, and temperature of the QT water.
4. Make adjustments as needed.
5. The QT is ready for use.

Prepare and keep on hand saltwater made from artificial salts -- all future water changes will use this water not display tank water.

[NOTE: if the QT will not be used within a couple of days, the aquarist should keep the biological filter going by adding food to the QT and not removing it (see After Use below). Just before fish is added, siphon off any leftover foods and detritus. Just before adding fish, perform again the above (and 1. below) series of water quality tests.]

In Use Procedures

1. Monitor and test for ammonia, nitrite, pH, specific gravity and temperature daily.
2. Hold water quality constant and good.
   (IF the biological/sponge filter was not seeded or it stops working during a treatment, control ammonia and nitrites by large water changes OR use chemical absorbents (e.g., Algone) so long as the chemicals won't and don't interfere with any medication. Make water changes whenever any ammonia is detected; make water changes when 0.05 ppm or more nitrite is detected when quarantine is performed on fish.)
3. Make adjustments to water daily to hold water test results in their proper range and to keep them steady (Make adjustments more often (2-3 times per day) if the biological filter is not or stops functioning.)
4. Remove uneaten foods 1 hour after each feeding time.
5. Make 50% or larger water changes every week or more frequently -- assuming no treatment is being administered. Follow good water change techniques. (If a treatment is administered, change water according to medication instructions. If water changes are needed during treatment and the treatment isn't over, medication must be added back to the QT water to keep medication at a constant, recommended concentration.)

After Use

The QT can remain running, with food (0.5 gram frozen food per 20 gallons) added every other day to keep the biological filter running,
OR
Return sponge filter (if not treated with copper meds) to display tank system (e.g., sump) and keep it running until needed again.
Tare down the QT; wash and rinse it out thoroughly. If copper was used, there needs to be a special cleaning process IF the QT will be used to quarantine invertebrates, LR, corals, and such. IF the QT will only be used for marine fish, a thorough cleaning will be all that is needed. After cleaning, let the equipment go bone dry before using again.

Things Not To Do/Use
1. Don't use live rock in a QT. It may seem like a 'short cut' for a biological filter, but you won't be able to treat the fish with medications -- most fish treatments will turn the live rock into base rock.
2. Don't use any carbon or general absorbing media -- it will interfere with any medication you might want to administer.
3. Avoid the use of any 'high-end' filtration system. Stick with a simple sponge filter. The benefits include: easy to move it into and from the display system for keeping it alive; it has no intake to injure a fish; it gently moves the water's surface; and doesn't create too much of a current. Your best control over water quality will be testing and making water changes. HOWEVER, if you do have to use a medication in the QT, then you might need carbon to remove the medication.
4. Don't count upon any of those products that say they will start your tank's biological filter by adding bacteria. They usually won't help you and since you may be using medication, they definitely won't be able to help. When you use medication, many of the bacteria will die or just fail to come out of their dormant state.
5. Don't attempt to quarantine multiple fishes.
5.a If you would like a pair of Anemonefishes, for instance, either use two quarantine tanks or quarantine them one at a time. Another method is to setup a large QT and insert a divider to separate them. There's no rush and there's absolutely no need to put them into your display at the same time. If your display tank is smallish, then two fish shouldn't be put in together -- it will shock the biological system of the display.
5.b One problem with putting multiple fishes through the same quarantine is that one fish can have a disease and give it to the rest. Now you're treating fish that weren't ill to begin with. Or. . .The nightmare: Every fish in the QT can have a different disease or condition and they require different treatments. It's not worth the trouble, risk, or likely loss.
5.c Another problem is that putting multiple fishes through quarantine defeats many of the above listed benefits of using a quarantine process. Check out that list. Which of the listed benefits of using a quarantine process would be lost if multiple fishes were in the QT?
6. Don't assume everything is fine. Keep checking the water quality and especially pH. A water change can mend a world of hurts!


I have done the above (or a version of the above) for more than 35 years now. For over 35 years my display tanks have been free of parasites, disease microbes, flukes, intestinal worms, etc., etc. Together with reduced stress the fish will live a long and healthy life (oldest one is now 17 years old). The above may look daunting or arduous, but it was written in great detail for those who enjoy the details. Once the aquarist has the equipment, it is an easy process. Doing this has a great payback!

Feel free to ask for any explanation for why I do any of the above, or ask if you have any questions.

[Woodstock]

Lee, I am currently using pure ammonia (plus some thawed fish food) to cycle my hospital tank. Do you recommend this method?

[leebca]

I have found using ammonia alone isn't enough. What adding just ammonia products does is launch the nitrification bacteria. But if the person is aware of what's really going on, they realize that there are thousands of other kinds of bacteria at work.

So adding ammonia AND another organic source, such as the thawed fish food is a very good idea. Don't short the thawed fish food. In fact you can slightly overdose it in the unoccupied QT and then clean it out before using the tank.

[BarbMazz]

Lee, this makes very good sense to me. I am very interested in setting up a reef tank and I'm doing my ahead-of-time research so that I'm prepared as I can be before I actually do it.

When I do set up my tank how do I set up a QT in conjunction with it? I would like to have the QT available when I'm ready to start adding fish. I understand about the sponge filter, and allowing it to get ready in the sump. Do I start the sponge when I actually first set up my display and sump/refugium system?

What about the other creatures that go into a display tank; corals, inverts, clean up guys, etc etc... do they need quarantine as well?

Any tips or advice you can send a newbie's way will be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Barb

[leebca]

Thanks for posting Barb.

I have in another post indicated a beginner's approach to setting up an aquarium. In step 18. I recommend putting the first fish through quarantine.

The biological filter for the QT is put into the initial setup of the marine system to seed it with bacteria -- a step in the process shows when to do this.

The post is here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...tml#post357677

[BarbMazz]

Originally Posted by leebca

Thanks for posting Barb.

I have in another post indicated a beginner's approach to setting up an aquarium. In step 18. I recommend putting the first fish through quarantine.

The biological filter for the QT is put into the initial setup of the marine system to seed it with bacteria -- a step in the process shows when to do this.

The post is here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...tml#post357677

Lee, thanks for the good link! I've printed it out and will add it to me reef binder. I'm getting closer to actually making purchases and starting setup...this sort of advice is invaluable!

Barb

[cracker]

My 20 gl qt has been cycleing about 10 days now. I'm using a w/d with bioballs for the filter. The Ammonia came up to 2.0 & has stayed at this level for several days now. Should it be higher? I added a few frozen cubes of brine shrimp A big pinch of flake & a small fresh shrimp. Shoud I add some more fish food? Can I add a few drops of pure ammonia even though I'm not following that proceedure? Thanks.
I guess I'm looking for a stronger cycle.

[leebca]

I'm unsure what you mean by a 'stronger' cycle. You just want it to cycle -- properly. Nature insists upon time and that can't be easily altered. The size of the numbers is not as important as the fact that these chemicals are there and measurable.

As long as there is ammonia and nitrites present then the numbers of bacteria aren't there to handle these wastes. I would not recommend the use of flakes. Hold off on the food now until the ammonia goes down. It takes time.

[cracker]

Thanks again . I will wait !

[CMG]

I am setting up a QT tank. I have a 10g tank with a hood and I have left overs from my freshwater tank, heaters, air pump, etc.

I have 2 questions about the sponge filter I am trying to use.

1) I am just confused about how this thing works with an air pump. I totaly understand attaching a powerhead to the tube (tube not shown in pic) will suck water in through the sponge creating the necessary water/bacteria contact. But how does pumping air down into the sponge create water movement? Wont the air in the form of bubbles just go down the little air pump tube and come out and then float back up through the big sponge filter tube? And what about the second air pump tube? The pump has two outlets???

2) In order to get good bacteria into the sponge do I just put the sponge in the main display or do I need to put the whole sponge filter runnig with the air pump in the display?

Thank you!

[leebca]

Thanks for posting.

A tube from the top of the center of the filter will act like a riser. Instead of a mechanical draw, an airstone near the middle of the filter running with air, will draw water through the sponge. The air mixed with water in the tube is 'lighter' water than the surrounding water and that water rises in the tube. This action draws water through the filter. It is the same principle hat an undergravel filter operates. You might check out how they look and how air stones are used in those 'riser' tubes.

The sponge filter operating with the air and drawing water through the sponge, is put into the sump or established marine system. That is all that is needed to 'seed' the sponge with the desirable bacteria. However, like the first cycle on your new aquarium, the seeding takes a few weeks.

[CMG]

Ohhhhhh! Very interesting. Thank you.

So I not only need to hook up the airpump tube to the top of the bullseye on sponge filter but I also need to use an airstone? I think this is attached to the bottom side of the bullseye.

So what does an airstone do? Does it just diffuse the air coming out of the tube so that its not a just a strong flow but instead a spread of bubbles?

In my picture here the blue box is the air pump and the green is the tube for the pump that goes down inside the sponge filters tube (not pictured) and attaches to what the box says is a bullseye. and underneath the bullseye is another connection point that the airstone (pruple) would go on?

[leebca]

I think we are maybe both using words we don't quite understand.

That green flexible tubing goes inside a pipe (a 'riser' not shown) that goes into the center of the sponge filter, but not down the inside. The end of that pipe should stop at the top of the center of the sponge, so the inside of the sponge does not have a pipe blocking the inside of the sponge. At the end of the green flexible tubing is an airstone. The airstone goes as far into the center of the sponge as practical (maybe half-way or, to avoid bubbles in the sponge, just where the tube connects to the center of the sponge). Air is pumped through the tubing, into the airstone that diffuses the air into small bubbles when this is then put into water. The bubbles rise in the tube and come out the top.

This action disturbs the surface of the water (a good thing) and draws water from outside the sponge to the inside of the sponge -- the 'filtration' part of the biological filtration.

Hope this helps.

Try to find a diagram of an undergravel filter and I think you'll better understand how the airstone and pipe (what I call the lift or riser) is setup.