A Fish Quarantine Process - Step by Step

[bommh18]

i need to set up a QT to perform hyposalinity treatment. can i just use water from the Display tank and use it immediately or do i have to wait for the QT to cycle? also, can i use a Marineland Penguin hang on filter?

[Dentoid]

A Hyposalinity Treatment Process

[leebca]

The start up of a QT can use the aquarium water IF you have been using a QT process all along and there is no disease in your display system. If you are just beginning to utilize a quarantine process, I would suggest using brand new water.

NOW, in your particular case, the fish from the display system are infected (I assume) and you are setting up the QT to treat them. In this case, using the aquarium water to begin with is okay.

A simple sponge filter is the best choice. It moves the water surface around nicely without creating a strong current on sick fishes. Any outside filter or power filter creates a problem for sick fish in that they are easily 'sucked up' by or stick to intake pipes.

Please read through that link, provided by Dentoid.

[franklingt3]

OK, let me see if I have this correct. I have likely contracted MI in my 14 gallon BioCube. I have 2 small fish, a 1 1/2 " damsel and a 1 1/2" clown as well as a green crab, fireshrimp and a turbo snail. I understand I need to run my display tank for 8 weeks without fish to rid it or starve the MI.

Is it sufficient to quarintine and treat these critters together in an established QT? Will a 10 gallon size be sufficient, as my space is limited.

Am I correct that I can start with a fresh mix of RO water and my salt mix. Should I seed the sponge filter with a commercial bacteria or by dipping it or running it for a short time in my display tank? (won't that introduce the MI to the new tank?)

Finally, appx. how long will it take for my QT to cycle, if I seed it with food as indicated?

Thanks in advance for a great newbee-friendly forum set!

[leebca]

In answer to your concerns and questions:

Is it sufficient to quarantine and treat these critters together in an established QT?

Only move and treat the fish.

Should I seed the sponge filter with a commercial bacteria or by dipping it or running it for a short time in my display tank?

Use a seeded sponge from contaminated tank. You can use the water from the original tank, too. The reason why you aren't concerned is two-fold -- the fish are carrying the disease anyway, right? The purpose of the move is to treat for the disease. Once treatment commences, there is to be no cross-over or further use of anything from the contaminated tank.

Since I doubt you will get the new filter 'seeded' in time, you may just have to do water changes at the outset, UNLESS by seeding you mean taking the floss or filter media from the filter of the contaminated tank and using it in the QT. That is okay, too (for the above reasons).

Store bought bacteria is a mistake in my opinion. Bought bacteria are not 'active.' They are in a state of metabolic arrest (type of hibernation). It takes them a few weeks to gear up, which is no advantage than having the bacteria in the air and water do the same thing. Save your money. In short, no one rushes Mother Nature.

Finally, appx. how long will it take for my QT to cycle, if I seed it with food as indicated?

See above answer. It would take about 4-8 weeks. Too much time if you're starting from 'scratch.' You need to begin treatment ASAP.


You're welcome!

[new reefer 03]

do i need to cycle a QT for my new tang im about to order? he will be resting in there while i treat my current fish, and let my tank be fallow.
Thanks

[sqrle]

So what do you do with the sponge filter after the Qt if you are treating ick for example. Would placing the sponge back in the sump introduce the disease back into the tank or would it be completely gone by that pont??

[BigAl07]

IMO nothing EVERY goes from QT to the Main System. I wouldn't even use a net or anything even AFTER the treatment time period is over.

The fewer "Variables" added to the equation the better.

[new reefer 03]

wow, im stupid.

if i was going to make a QT tank and used my water to "season" the sponge that would infect the QT tank with ich aswell.
so the only way you could connect your QT/Hospital tank with your DT is if you plan on treating the disseases you have in that tank.

[lcstorc]

For I think the first time ever, I am going to disagree with Al (unless I just mis-read his post).
I would go ahead and seed the sponge from the display and you could start the qt with water from the display. Anything for setting up the QT can come from the ich infested display since you are going to treat the QT for ich and you are already adding the fish with ich anyway.
Once you put the fish into the qt and start your treatment and fallow period, I would not use anything from one tank to the other.
After the fallow period I would put new sponges into the display to get seeded for future qt use. This would be only after the fallow period is done.
Once you have an ich free tank, then follow proper QT procedure for all "wet" additions. This would include any coral as well. If you know for certain that it was in a coral only tank for 10+ weeks, I might make an exception, but that would be the only case.

[dionysusjg]

I'm just curious as to the "6 week" period that Lee recommends. He says that 4 weeks is insufficient, but I'm just wondering for what reason.
For instance, I have a new blue tang who has been in quarantine for the last 4 weeks. He flashed a bit for the first week (probs due to bad acclimation) but then stopped, and has been fine ever since. He eats well, is active, and looks healthy, and I'm just wondering what I'm looking for that an extra 2 weeks is going to expose?

To cut a long question short. WHY is 4 weeks not sufficient? WHY 6 weeks? Why not 8 weeks, or 12 weeks? (Damn... now we're at 3 questions :P )

[leebca]

There are a wide range of pathogens and afflictions which ornamental marine fishes may harbor. Some are intestinal/internal that take weeks to make an outward appearnce to the human eye. Other pathogens like the Marine Ich parasite, require weeks to go through their life cycle, then multiply in large enough populations to have an effect on the fish confined in a small space, then days or weeks more for the hobbyists to see them on the fish.

For instance, if the QT is infected with a Marine Ich cyst, it could take up to 6 weeks for the hobbyists to see the first spot. This is allowing enough time for the parasite to go through its cycle and show up in enough numbers on the fish to be seen by the human unaided eye. The next generation of parasite during the next two weeks would show an 'explosion' of the parasite that couldn't be missed by the hobbyist. In this case, the hobbyist would hold the fish in quarantine for 6+ weeks with the showing of a spot on week 6. So 'spot-free' for 6 weeks gives about a 99% confidence level that this parasite isn't there in the QT.

Although a longer quarantine time does increase the confidence level above 99%, from experience and knowledge of the pathogens most likely to find their way into the QT, they will show themselves within 6 weeks. Lengthening the time in quarantine would not seem to be a good investment, or would not have much of a payoff, if any.

If the hobbyist is not observant and doesn't spend a lot of time with the fish, or leaves town/away during the process (and the care taker doesn't know what to look for or doesn't care), it is certainly reasonable to extend the time in quarantine.

[dionysusjg]

Cool... thanks Lee... I was considering releasing him into the DT after 4 weeks (tomorrow), but no way I'm risking another MI infection!!!! I lost 4 of my 7 fish last time! I'm keeping it pristine from now on!

[leebca]

Kudos to you and congratulations. You're moving another step closer to being a marine aquarist, from being just another hobbyist. It takes patience, a sense-knowledge-experience of what's right for the marine life form, and diligence in doing what's in the best interests of the marine life to become (in my opinion) a marine aquarist.

[Woodstock]

Originally Posted by leebca

Kudos to you and congratulations. You're moving another step closer to being a marine aquarist, from being just another hobbyist. It takes patience, a sense-knowledge-experience of what's right for the marine life form, and diligence in doing what's in the best interests of the marine life to become (in my opinion) a marine aquarist.

Kudos to you Lee for being here and answering all of our questions! I am certain your responses (and those that heed to them) are directly responsible for saving the lives of many, many fish.
Your time and effort are greatly appreciated!!
Thank you!